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Old 24 February 2014, 08:01   #31
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ben, you are referring to the hitch damper i guess, he said energy store, which i take to mean the big spring that powers the handbrake?
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Old 24 February 2014, 09:52   #32
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You're right! Good spot. I was jibbering about the damper.

You're right again (damn you!) - I've got a fairly lumpy set of forearms, but I think I'd be hard pressed to push an energy store in too!
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Old 08 March 2014, 17:36   #33
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So, got bearings repacked, everything looked ok so i thought i'd pinch 'em in a bit tighter and be a bit less trigger happy with the grease gun. Put the brakes back together with new stainless cables and the M10 bar instead of coupling to compensation cable. Took it all out for a test run and for the first 10 miles: awesome. Totally transformed, then it all went back to clonking and no brakes, so i guess something cam loose. Will have to check tomorrow. but I am convinced that functioning brakes are the way forward!

On a separate note: I fitted the lightboard arms and put my new 6ft lightboard in 'em. now I have a separate problem.
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With the new board in place I have to have the outboard up on the tilt stop while towing. I have read and participated in threads on here before about engine positions while towing but it seems to me that while up on the tilt stop the only difference really is that the transom braces are being compressed rather than stretched. Opinions?
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Old 09 March 2014, 06:00   #34
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ive fitted brand new brakes including backplates etc, took it for a test run and the brakes worked perfectly when i anchored up. problem was that they didnt release! (handbrake worked perfectly and didnt jam) kept playing with them, and kept getting them jamming on. was about to give up when i decided to look at the hitch itself, and found that the little arm that moves when the hitch is compressed was rusted solid. once i had cut it off (various sizes of hammer wouldnt free it) and put a new 2nd hand one on it works as it should. before fitting the new arm i fitted a grease nipple to the tube part so as to avoid any future problems with it.
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Old 09 March 2014, 09:10   #35
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Actually, now that I've put he number plate on I find that it's a bit offset. So I should be able to drop the engine a bit without obscuring the number.
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Old 15 March 2014, 17:11   #36
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ok, so it looks like the damper's goosed; it doesn't return at all under it's own steam. More concerning still is that when fully compressed the bit underneath that actuates the brakes doesn't move an inch. I suspect that what's happened is that being asked to actually do braking after all these years has bust something inside the coupling.

Do I replace the coupling entirely given that it is what Trailer Guy called "old school". Or try and strip it down to see what's bust?
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Old 15 March 2014, 17:21   #37
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Not uncommon at all. Think your diagnosis is likely correct - the pivot has been seized for some time, so the entire braking inertia has been accommodated by the coupling damper.

Had this very recently with another ribnetter's trailer. Damper was about 55, plus an hours labour, to strip the coupling off the trailer (damper came out backwards, ergo coupling had to come off), replace damper and reinstall coupling.

I've put a 'how to' on damper changing up. Should find it in the stickies, which may be of assistance. I'm sure you'll be able to source a damper.
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Old 15 March 2014, 17:35   #38
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Thanks TG. If compressing the drawbar doesn't cause the pivot thingy (techincal terminology, try to keep up ) to move then there must be something bust as well as the damper being shot surely? The damper's just there to take the sting out of the draw bar compression isn't it?

When I first hooked it all up after putting the new cables on and the brake bar in , the brakes were definitely working; I could feel it. Then suddenly they stopped working and the clonking came back. As if a connection somewhere in the coupling had failed. If guess if I take the coupling off maybe I'll be able to see what's going on. I'll try it tomorrow.
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Old 15 March 2014, 20:53   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clamchowder View Post
ok, so it looks like the damper's goosed; it doesn't return at all under it's own steam. More concerning still is that when fully compressed the bit underneath that actuates the brakes doesn't move an inch. I suspect that what's happened is that being asked to actually do braking after all these years has bust something inside the coupling. Do I replace the coupling entirely given that it is what Trailer Guy called "old school". Or try and strip it down to see what's bust?
Here's a Tip!! Before you put new brake cable on your trailer soak them in oil first before you fit them it helps against Corrosion I did this last year when I fitted new ones on my trailer I've just fitted new bearing a few weeks ago & took the brake cables off to make sure they are working fine after 12 months , & they are still working ok I've soaked them in oil again before refitting them this time it pays to make sure all the moving parts on the trailer are well oiled or greased after every trip i do it after washing down after a trip & had no problems now for over 12 months & did over 1000 mile of boating last season so it pays to keep the trailer well greased & oiled
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Old 16 March 2014, 05:40   #40
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the wobbly pivoty bit under the hitch was rusted solid on mine, could that be the case on yours?
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