Originally Posted by Clamchowder
I've taken it all apart this weekend. Should i be able to compress the energy store by hand or is it just all rusted up?
Yup, you can compress by hand (that's how I test on a service and how you have to line the damper up, when changing them), but how hard it is to compress and how quickly it returns is dependent on condition and weight rating. i.e. a 3500kg coupling damper will be a lot harder to compress than 1200kg rated one.
If it pushes in very easily and either doesn't return under it's own steam, or returns veeeeerrrrry slowly, then in all liklihood your damper is blown. This wouldn't be surprising if your brakes haven't been working for some time - the trailer inertia has just been slowing on the damper.
Ref the question over the bearings:
"As you can see the inside edge of the hub doesn't look like in TG's sticky about changing trailer bearings, and the inner bearing seems to move around by about 5 mm. Looking at the stub axle"
They are the same thing (taper roller bearings), but you have an additional 'super hub' seal on the back. This is particular to Indespension trailers and is meant to be an additional fail-safe to stop grease penetrating the braking mechanism. Something, ironically, you've suffered with judging by the next pic! Sod's Law... You need to take this off, before being able to access the rear bearing. Although you may have found this out already.
As intimated by A1an, It's worth checking your bearing saver mechanism is free and moving easily. They have a tendency to seize, meaning the spring doesn't compress as it should, when you pump the grease in. This means that it may blow the rear seal and push grease in to the drum...
All the best, Ben