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Old 22 January 2014, 08:33   #21
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The art world's loss is the trailer fettling world's gain.

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Old 02 February 2014, 12:46   #22
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More advice

Been up and had the hubs off finally... looks like the brakes haven't been doing anything all through last year, the inside of the hub is untouched by anything but rust. So the brakes definitely need adjusting up once I get the bits from Indespension Leeds. There is also a fair amount of grease on the backplate.
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As you can see the inside edge of the hub doesn't look like in TG's sticky about changing trailer bearings, and the inner bearing seems to move around by about 5 mm. Looking at the stub axle
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it looks like the raised part round the base pushes in on the seal. Is the grease escaping cos I'm not doing the hub nut up tight enough? It was pretty much finger tight when i took it off.
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Old 02 February 2014, 13:15   #23
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that's gonna taking a good dose of cleaning before them brakes will do much good, think maybe there was a touch too much free play if the nut was only finger tight but there's always a fine line between just right n over tight
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Old 02 February 2014, 14:09   #24
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I would say that the grease on the backplate is from enthusiastic use of a grease gun.
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Old 02 February 2014, 14:10   #25
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Originally Posted by A1an View Post
I would say that the grease on the backplate is from enthusiastic use of a grease gun.
How so? I just fill the bearing savers up and they apply the pressure.
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Old 02 February 2014, 14:12   #26
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How so? I just fill the bearing savers up and they apply the pressure.
Ah right.

I thought it might be the pressure that a gun can apply pushing grease past the seal.
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Old 23 February 2014, 18:30   #27
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Energy store

I've taken it all apart this weekend. Should i be able to compress the energy store by hand or is it just all rusted up?
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Old 24 February 2014, 05:19   #28
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if you can squash it by hand then remind me never to shake your hand!
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Old 24 February 2014, 05:26   #29
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ive just put all new brakes on mine, including new drums and backplates which i have made removable as i remove the brakes in march when i get it to the caravan site and put them back on at the end of october, and im fed up of having to clean rust off and free up the adjusters etc. took it for a test run and the brakes were jamming on, was getting really pissed off until i decided to look at the hitch itself and found that part of the linkage was rusted solid! next job is to remove that and fit a grease nipple to it, then it 'should' be like new. it will be the first time its actually had working brakes in the time ive owned it!
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Old 24 February 2014, 07:43   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clamchowder View Post
I've taken it all apart this weekend. Should i be able to compress the energy store by hand or is it just all rusted up?
Yup, you can compress by hand (that's how I test on a service and how you have to line the damper up, when changing them), but how hard it is to compress and how quickly it returns is dependent on condition and weight rating. i.e. a 3500kg coupling damper will be a lot harder to compress than 1200kg rated one.

If it pushes in very easily and either doesn't return under it's own steam, or returns veeeeerrrrry slowly, then in all liklihood your damper is blown. This wouldn't be surprising if your brakes haven't been working for some time - the trailer inertia has just been slowing on the damper.

Ref the question over the bearings:
"As you can see the inside edge of the hub doesn't look like in TG's sticky about changing trailer bearings, and the inner bearing seems to move around by about 5 mm. Looking at the stub axle"

They are the same thing (taper roller bearings), but you have an additional 'super hub' seal on the back. This is particular to Indespension trailers and is meant to be an additional fail-safe to stop grease penetrating the braking mechanism. Something, ironically, you've suffered with judging by the next pic! Sod's Law... You need to take this off, before being able to access the rear bearing. Although you may have found this out already.

As intimated by A1an, It's worth checking your bearing saver mechanism is free and moving easily. They have a tendency to seize, meaning the spring doesn't compress as it should, when you pump the grease in. This means that it may blow the rear seal and push grease in to the drum...

All the best, Ben
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