Wheel bearings again ! Help needed

LURCHER · 02 June 2007, 06:53

I have a problem which I am stuck on . I brought my RIB home last week to do a few jobs on and on arrival found one wheel bearing failing . The outer race had collapsed. We were able to remove the old bearing without any problem but when trying to refit the new one we can't get the castle nut back onto the thread . I have tried to smooth over the damaged area with a file small hacksaw etc I have tried a new nut as well . I can't change the stub axle as it is a one piece axle . THREADDOCTORS cant come till middle of next week and I am stuck inland in the great weather . Any suggestions please.

alexm · 02 June 2007, 07:19

Do you have access to a die set? Maybe try to recut the thread?

Hightower · 02 June 2007, 09:19

I doudt that the thread is a standard one, if memory serves they are a fine thread and am not completely sure whether it's metric or imperial! If you could fine out what thread you have then I'll have a look through my dies and see if I have one.

I am surprised that you couldn't dress the damaged thread with a file, must be really damaged!

LURCHER · 02 June 2007, 09:44

Thats the odd thing there is much visible damge ! Someone said the heat may have caused the thread to expand is that possible ?

Hightower · 02 June 2007, 10:26

I doudt it, unless you heated it with a welding set.

jwalker · 02 June 2007, 11:00

Get a triangular needle file and set to.

Did you hammer the end of the stub axle?

4str · 02 June 2007, 12:50

I can't remember the name of this tool and you would have to translate from american english anyway, so I'll do my best with a description:

The file is square in cross section with each of the 4 sides having a different thread count cut into the file. The shape of the cutting teeth fit perfectly into the thread channels if you choose a side with the proper thread count. I have two of these, they have 4 different thread counts on each end, so I have a total of 16 thread counts on 2 tools. They work great on buggered threads and take up little room in a traveling tool box.

I had a similar bearing failure on my boat trailer. The bearing race came out in pieces! I am amazed that the wheel still moved given the damage to the bearing. Inspection showed that the seal surface was knackered by the hub wobbling on the spindle. Solved that problem with a set of stainless steel sleeves, thin rings that are pressed over the old sealing surface. Now my trailer's seals ride on a nice, smooth stainless surface, instead of one pitted from rust. And a set of greaseable piston hub caps (called bearing buddies in the US) keeps a slight positive pressure in the hubs to keep the sea water out.

Good luck!

4str · 02 June 2007, 13:36

I can't remember the name of this tool and you would have to translate from american english anyway, so I'll do my best with a description:

The file is square in cross section with each of the 4 sides having a different thread count cut into the file. The shape of the cutting teeth fit perfectly into the thread channels if you choose a side with the proper thread count. I have two of these, they have 4 different thread counts on each end, so I have a total of 16 thread counts on 2 tools. They work great on buggered threads and take up little room in a traveling tool box.

I had a similar bearing failure on my boat trailer. The bearing race came out in pieces! I am amazed that the wheel still moved given the damage to the bearing. Inspection showed that the seal surface was knackered by the hub wobbling on the spindle. Solved that problem with a set of stainless steel sleeves, thin rings that are pressed over the old sealing surface. Now my trailer's seals ride on a nice, smooth stainless surface, instead of one pitted from rust. And a set of greaseable piston hub caps (called bearing buddies in the US) keeps a slight positive pressure in the hubs to keep the sea water out.

Good luck!

LURCHER · 02 June 2007, 14:52

OK I got it back on after a lot of filing etc Very tight but it seems to have gone on straight so fingers crossed I dont need to change it again ,
Just remembered last person to use it was JIMBO do u think they might be relaterd in any way ?

jyasaki · 04 June 2007, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4str

I can't remember the name of this tool and you would have to translate from american english anyway, so I'll do my best with a description:

The file is square in cross section with each of the 4 sides having a different thread count cut into the file.

I believe that would be, uh... a "thread repair file" aka "thread restoring file".

Shouldn't be too hard to find.

jky

Sixy_the_red · 04 June 2007, 15:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4str

I can't remember the name of this tool and you would have to translate from american english anyway, so I'll do my best with a description:

The file is square in cross section with each of the 4 sides having a different thread count cut into the file. The shape of the cutting teeth fit perfectly into the thread channels if you choose a side with the proper thread count. I have two of these, they have 4 different thread counts on each end, so I have a total of 16 thread counts on 2 tools. They work great on buggered threads and take up little room in a traveling tool box.

I had a similar bearing failure on my boat trailer. The bearing race came out in pieces! I am amazed that the wheel still moved given the damage to the bearing. Inspection showed that the seal surface was knackered by the hub wobbling on the spindle. Solved that problem with a set of stainless steel sleeves, thin rings that are pressed over the old sealing surface. Now my trailer's seals ride on a nice, smooth stainless surface, instead of one pitted from rust. And a set of greaseable piston hub caps (called bearing buddies in the US) keeps a slight positive pressure in the hubs to keep the sea water out.

Good luck!

Sounds like a thread chaser?

jwalker · 04 June 2007, 16:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sixy_the_red

Sounds like a thread chaser?

Nah, a thread chaser is a bit like a wood chisel but it has teeth on the end. It's used for finishing a thread which has been cut using a lathe.

Limey Linda · 04 June 2007, 16:27

In the UK it is called a thread file, Each side ( 4) has a diferent thread pitch or TPI. Most are double ended so you get a total of 8 thread pitches. As previously mentioned a thread chaser is used on a lathe to finish a thread that has been screw cut on the lathe.. If thread damage is minor then use a triangular needle file and finish off with a stiff steel wire brush then apply a small amount of fine valve grinding paste and wind the nut back and forth. Remember to wipe/flush of the grinding paste when your done.
Regards. T.

Sixy_the_red · 05 June 2007, 07:50

Well that's me told