okay lads, if you can change a prop you can do a wheel bearing. Some thoughts.
1. DO NOT use the handbrake on a trailer, ever. The shoes will stick to the hub (big round cast iron brake thingy) and lock the brakes on. If you are lucky the boat will be on the trailer and lots of power from a 4x4 forwards and backwards will break the bond, if you are lucky. If you are unlucky it won't. If the boat is in the water you really are in trouble as the trailer wheels just drag along (no weight) grinding flat spots on the tyre.
2. Carry a soft headed hammer, a large flat screw driver and either a 17 or 19 mm ring spanner. On the back of the backplate there is a nut which adjusts the shoes moving them closer or futher away from the hub. Its a fine adjustment and over do it and the shoes run on the hub and get hot. To little and the brakes don't work leaving your car brakes and the shock in the tow hitch to do a lot of work and wear out.
3. Changing a bearing. Slacken off the nut on the back to so the shoes are clear of the hub remove the bearing protector that you have fitted YES ??? and remove the split pin. Undo the big nut in front of the bearing. No need to take the wheel off in the first instance just wiggle and the washer and outer bearing inner will come loose and the wheel and hub off in one. If it doesn't the shoes are catching on a lip inside the hub and must be pushed/forced in. Use the screw driver and be brutle. Slacken the adjt nut some more if it helps. The outer bearing will leave the outside journal in the hub. to remove use the screw driver from the opposite side and give it a belt. If you grease reguarly its no prob. The rear bearing will leave the journal on the stub axle (little tappered thingy in the middle of the back plate sticking out at you. If you have greased it reg it will also come off. If you have over heated it, oh dear. Take a hack saw and cut a grove (in the very hard steel) enough to get the screwdriver to bite and give it a belt with the hammer so the journal goes round to start with. Lots of WD 40 and a few more smacks and it will come off.
If the bearing has over heated or corroded the roller cage will disintergrate. Keep the race as you will need the numbers on the side to order a new bearing. Fit new bearings and seal at the back you have in your boat box and pack with grease. Refit bearing and adjust the play using the big nut on the out side. the wheel must rotate freely 1/4 of a turn to much and the wheel will bind which gives a good indication of whats right. Use a new plit pin if you have one although we have all reused them in the past in an emergency. Adjusting the brakes on any trailer over 12 months old is an art! be grateful you have a two wheeled trailer and a sensible sized rib. Four wheels? OMG! Rusty binding components and cables that are siezed or stretch just make for fun. Drive a few miles and check the heat in the hubs by puting your hand on them. To hot for your hand and you ave got it wrong. slacken the rear adjusting nut a little.
So do grease them reguarly. i do a full strip 4 times a year. do fit bearing protectors they really do work. Carry a spare bearing and a big hammer. check the temp every time you stop.
Finally buy the indespension trailer manual for £2. It tells you every thing you need to know. Anyone think of anything else ?