Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 08 April 2010, 18:38   #1
Member
 
martini's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
UHMWPE for trailer bunks

I decided to give this stuff a go as my bunks needed replacing.

I bought 4off strips, 2000mm x 150mm x 12mm @ £28.00 ea from a company called F R Warren & Co Ltd in Bristol.

http://www.frwarren.co.uk/

I replaced the timber underneath with iroko then drilled and screwed the PE to it countersinking as deep as possible.

Haven't launched or recovered with it yet but will post my findings when I do.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	trailer bunks 001s.jpg
Views:	1030
Size:	279.2 KB
ID:	50313   Click image for larger version

Name:	trailer bunks 002s.jpg
Views:	1508
Size:	241.9 KB
ID:	50314   Click image for larger version

Name:	trailer bunks 003s.jpg
Views:	1187
Size:	175.2 KB
ID:	50315  
__________________
martini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 April 2010, 22:11   #2
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,622
I'll be interested to hear how you get on as I've been tempted to do mine. Quite expensive though?
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 April 2010, 06:51   #3
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Plastics are slippery: do *not* disconnect boat until the stern is over the water.

You'll probably find that you don't need to back the trailer in as far as usual either to launch or recover.

PE (which UHMW is a type of) is what are sold as bunk slicks which you screw onto the surface of your normal wood bunks.

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 April 2010, 19:43   #4
CJL
Member
 
CJL's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: London/Oxford
Make: Ribcrafts
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp/2x115hp
MMSI: 235090215
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,241
RIBase
Send a message via Skype™ to CJL
Yeah I would be interested to see how you get on with this.

The standard carpet type material never really seems that durable.

Good luck!!

Chris
__________________
CJL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 April 2010, 11:38   #5
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
Previous discussion on the subject: http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=15697

No I never did "stop p^ssing around and just do it"
__________________
A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...

Sent from my Computer, using a keyboard and mouse
BogMonster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 21:58   #6
Member
 
martini's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
Forgot all about updating this thread but at least I've had a good chance to trial this stuff out.

And the verdict is...really can't fault it.

Probably had at least half a dozen launches and recoveries, no sign at all of wear on the bunks and no apparent damage or marking to the hull.

Not bad considering this is a 3500kg boat and I use a good proportion of the 450hp available to force the boat right up to the winch post.

It has been said that this stuff is very slippery and the boat could come hurtling off the back. From the little winching I have done, I think it is marginally less grippy than the original canvas material but certainly not anything to worry about. Of course theres no way of knowing how close the boat is to breaking away and flying off the trailer until it actually does but I don't get the impression it's likely to happen.

Overall a good product well suited to the application and I'm happy to recommend it
__________________
martini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 22:03   #7
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
I might go for a mini version for the SR4 over the winter. The current set-up is useless.
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 22:08   #8
Member
 
martini's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
I might go for a mini version for the SR4 over the winter. The current set-up is useless.
You on bunks at the mo? It's the way forward, I don't reckon this stuff will need replacing in my lifetime
__________________
martini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 22:15   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
You on bunks at the mo? It's the way forward, I don't reckon this stuff will need replacing in my lifetime
No, it's on a non-roller coaster roller trailer. There's no rear set to keep the thing inline.
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 22:33   #10
Member
 
martini's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
No, it's on a non-roller coaster roller trailer. There's no rear set to keep the thing inline.
I had hoped that bunks would keep the boat in line but I still ended up fitting docking arms.

Still, give it a go, at the very least you do away with roller maintenance/replacement. See 1st post for a supplier, they were v helpful and in Bristol which is where you're from right?
__________________
martini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 22:47   #11
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
I had hoped that bunks would keep the boat in line but I still ended up fitting docking arms.
Makes sense. When you're recovering, the bunks are angled downwards parallel (or roughly so) to the slip. The boat is horizontal. the only contact between the bunks and the hull wil be towards the nose. How much depends on how shallow your trailer is when you recover, and the slope of the slip.

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 August 2010, 23:30   #12
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
Interesting - I'm going to have to mod my trailer soon after getting it as unfortunately the Vipermax hull isn't straight along the keel and the SBS rollers are not adjustable - so it only sits on 3 in the middle. Haven't decided whether to try and build a row of raised rollers towards the stern, or take the easy route and just make a bunk supporting the stern section of the keel, but if I take the easy option some of this may be just the ticket
__________________
A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...

Sent from my Computer, using a keyboard and mouse
BogMonster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 02:43.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.