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Old 05 May 2006, 17:01   #1
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Tying down tight to trailer - how???

Hi guys,

Trying to work out the best way to secure to trailer to stop bouncing about!

Have taken a ratchet t
strap from front tow eye round trailer, so front is tight, but worried about stern end bouncing.

Guess the best way would be to ratchet this down to trailer too using the rear tow eyes, but the ratchets are always in the wrong place.

How do others do it? Do people find ratcheting over the tubes is sufficient? Rear ratchet is actually going round the outboard to keep the whole rig forwards, so I'm probably worrying over nothing, but others' experiences/advice welcome.

Cheers

Neil
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Old 05 May 2006, 17:25   #2
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Don't ratchet over the tubes. Straps are abrasive and will overpressurise your tubes.
Any small leak will make the strap come loose as an overpressurised tube will leak faster and if you have overpressure valves....need I say more?

What problems are you having ratcheting down via the tow eyes-what do the ratchets hit?


I personally winch the bow up tight to the post, lock off the winch and lock/chain the bow eye to the trailer. Stern is held on by 2 ropes in a dolly knot or 2 short ratchet straps and the outboard is down on a piece of wood through the bracket to stop it bouncing.
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Old 05 May 2006, 17:51   #3
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That's the kind of thing I was worried about!

The ratchets currently hit the hull any way I've tried to do it! Not happy about that. Will have to have another go tomorrow. There has to be a good way to do it, just needs more time I guess to work it out!

She's real tight up on the bow, so no worries there now.

I'll take another look tomorrow, prefer to use the ratchet straps if poss, as they're so much simpler imho.

cheers
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Old 05 May 2006, 17:51   #4
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Mine has two stainless tow eyes in the transom which I ratchet to the trailer with two short ratchet straps. The bow eye is hooked to the winch and treble loop tied to the trailer drawbar. I do worry about what would happen if the bow eye let go.
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Old 05 May 2006, 18:00   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Harvey
The ratchets currently hit the hull any way I've tried to do it!


Easy-wrap the ratchets in something (rag, foam etc...)after you've tightened the strap and lash it on so they don't do any damage.
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Old 05 May 2006, 18:03   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Don't ratchet over the tubes. Straps are abrasive and will overpressurise your tubes.
Any small leak will make the strap come loose as an overpressurised tube will leak faster and if you have overpressure valves....need I say more?

What problems are you having ratcheting down via the tow eyes-what do the ratchets hit?


I personally winch the bow up tight to the post, lock off the winch and lock/chain the bow eye to the trailer. Stern is held on by 2 ropes in a dolly knot or 2 short ratchet straps and the outboard is down on a piece of wood through the bracket to stop it bouncing.
Nos4r2 - how do you ratchet down at the back? My RIB overhangs the trailer at the back by a couple of feet. Can't strap/ratchet straight down to the trailer. Runs from the 'D-brackets' on the transom down to the base of the transom and then diagonally back towards the trailer frame. I haven't felt comfortable doing this as I am rubbing the gel coat on the transom (even if packed there would be a risk of rubbing). Plus, because I can't run a straight line on the staps I worry about the back end not being secure and still bouncing. So I still use straps over the tubes aswell as tying off at the front end. How did you resolve this or can you strap straight down from the D brackets to your trailer without fouling the transom?
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Old 05 May 2006, 18:13   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Pike
My RIB overhangs the trailer at the back by a couple of feet.
Mine doesn't-it only overhangs by max 2 inches but it still fouls a bit. Can you move your winchpost forwards so the ratchet straps are straighter?
Mine does touch but not at much of an angle and it doesn't move at all-up, down or side to side.
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Old 05 May 2006, 18:19   #8
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nos4R2

has hit all the right points on this one. Its amazing how many RIBs you see with straps over the tubes. That certainly can do no good.

Tie down on the front pulling down on the hull and tie down at the rear pulling down on the hull.

Stop the boat going back by making sure the ratchet on the winch strap is locked. Thats about it. I'm sure we all worry about the forces put on the boat when its being towed but so far my 20+ year old hull with overweight motor has survived the worst pot holes Hampshires roads can throw at it.

The other thing you can do is drive carefully, avoid every manhole cover and use motorways for the majority of your journey.
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Old 05 May 2006, 18:29   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggles
Stop the boat going back by making sure the ratchet on the winch strap is locked. Thats about it.
I go one further and lock/chain my bow eye to the trailer too. It IS only a crappy spring that holds the ratchet in place and I've had one of those springs snap before. It can't move more than half an inch when it's locked down now even when the winch strap is slack.


Of course, one of these days I'll be spotted after I forget to undo the lock before I launch...


Biggles is right about the stresses on the hull for sure- lets face it, they get a damn sight more of a pasting launching off waves...
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Old 05 May 2006, 18:30   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Mine doesn't-it only overhangs by max 2 inches but it still fouls a bit. Can you move your winchpost forwards so the ratchet straps are straighter?
Mine does touch but not at much of an angle and it doesn't move at all-up, down or side to side.
Don't think so - RIB fills the trailer & its a fixed post. Could cut & shorten the bar with the V rest for the stem but would only give me a few more inches and I suppose this would give a potentially weak weld. Move it much further forward and it wil be in the car! Could buy a new trailer! Short of this I don't see how I can aviod Biggles comment about strapping down over the tubes.
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