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Old 16 January 2007, 13:08   #31
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Thanks Peter. Purchase price is something I've considered; I'm looking at Degraff to supply this trailer and it's going to be 3 or 400 quid more for twin axle. And yes, twice the maintainance is another negative issue.

The main thing for me for getting a twin axle was increased stability and less stress on the car. Doesn't sound like that's too much of a thing if it's set up properly.
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Old 16 January 2007, 13:31   #32
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Tim M,

Just get a single axle trailer and use some of the money you save to buy a spare hub/drum with (well greased) wheel bearing fitted. Keep this in the car, as a security measure, should a bearing set fail on you and make sure you also carry the tools needed to change it . The advice given to carry a spare bearing set is fine, but do you really want to be drifting knackered bearings out of a hub at the side of the road, in the wet, dark, etc...? Just change the whole hub/drum and fit a new bearing set to the old one when you get home. That will then be your spare.
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Old 16 January 2007, 14:22   #33
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do you really want to be drifting knackered bearings out of a hub at the side of the road, in the wet, dark, etc...?
I think I can safely say you are correct, he doesn't.

(With grateful thanks to Pete7...)
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Old 16 January 2007, 15:14   #34
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Tim M,

The advice given to carry a spare bearing set is fine, but do you really want to be drifting knackered bearings out of a hub at the side of the road, in the wet, dark, etc...? Just change the whole hub/drum and fit a new bearing set to the old one when you get home. That will then be your spare.
I never bother changing bearings any more since I found out that complete hubs from my local trailer palace are 1 or so more than a set of bearings. Does not seem worth the hassle.

Now I'm wondering if they artificially inflate the price of the bearing sets for some reason, as suchh a small price difference seems odd.
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Old 16 January 2007, 18:03   #35
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I never bother changing bearings any more since I found out that complete hubs from my local trailer palace are 1 or so more than a set of bearings. Does not seem worth the hassle.

Now I'm wondering if they artificially inflate the price of the bearing sets for some reason, as suchh a small price difference seems odd.
I do the same-I know the studs aren't rusting away either then.
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Old 17 January 2007, 03:51   #36
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but do you really want to be drifting knackered bearings out of a hub at the side of the road, in the wet, dark, etc...? Just change the whole hub/drum and fit a new bearing set to the old one when you get home. That will then be your spare.
Ah, yes but what happens if its a sealed bearing type?

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Old 17 January 2007, 05:03   #37
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Ah, yes but what happens if its a sealed bearing type?

Pete
Simple answer Pete-Don't buy a trailer with 'sealed' bearings...
The choice must be there if it's a new trailer, surely.
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Old 17 January 2007, 05:19   #38
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Simple answer Pete-Don't buy a trailer with 'sealed' bearings... The choice must be there if it's a new trailer, surely.
Thankfully DeGraff don't fit sealed wheel bearings because they know boat trailers are going to be submersed it water. Wonder why RM and SBS fit sealed bearings? must be good for business I suppose

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Old 17 January 2007, 08:20   #39
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Ah, yes but what happens if its a sealed bearing type?

Pete
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.......and make sure you also carry the tools needed to change it


In your toolkit, make sure you have a 32mm socket (3/4 drive preferrably), powerbar and 3 foot pipe to get the hub nut off. Should also keep a new hubnut and some loctite with the new hub/drum, for re-fitting
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Old 17 January 2007, 18:21   #40
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In your toolkit, make sure you have a 32mm socket (3/4 drive preferrably), powerbar and 3 foot pipe to get the hub nut off. Should also keep a new hubnut and some loctite with the new hub/drum, for re-fitting
Its 36mm, but even with a 4 foot bar they only just come off. The likes of Jimbo and Tim have no chance unless they go down either the Gym or chippie. Rogue Wave has the physique you need for this job

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