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Old 16 May 2013, 09:34   #51
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Originally Posted by Budgie1 View Post
Scanned through this thread and surprised no one has had a good moan about the car/board connector!? I get nothing but problems, have replaced plastic with metal connectors annually strip them down (car and board) for a good clean and within weeks I'm wiggling the f...... connector again!! have I missed a trick? is there some sort of remedy I'm not aware of??
Just look after the damn things, make sure the connections are clean, the seals on the lights are in place, make sure the pins in the plugs are not squashed, and after all that is done.
.
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Don't abuse it and throw it on the ground, or in the water.
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Old 16 May 2013, 10:18   #52
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Like you I put a metal plug on my old box trailer, I think it;s now on it;s 15th (ish) year with no issues bar the usual 23N service ofspreading the pins slightly & a dose of WD40......

Current car has a factory fit OEM tow bar with properly sealed 13pin connector. 170,000 miles later and it's still going strong - never had to point the WD40 at it either.

Box trailer now on something like it's 4th or 5th set of lamp clusters, old Laser's board took out 2 sets over time, and the rib one has just died on the N/S after what I reckon can only be about 1700 miles...
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Old 16 May 2013, 12:57   #53
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Budgie1, look at link in post above yours, that's the solution! Costly yes, but fixed for good.
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Old 17 June 2013, 09:39   #54
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Now they look good

I'm sick of them trailer boards where if you go over a pothole a bulb bounces out of the fitting or comes loose. There all the bloody same "crap"
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Old 17 June 2013, 12:03   #55
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Most lighting boards are pretty crap and fail after some time. My advice would be to make one up yourself as it would probably be better and last longer.
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Old 17 June 2013, 20:06   #56
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Rnli make their own like the ones for their D class boats such as this one in the pic
Just from a hardwood plank a
rubber -lite transparent junction box is also fitted so that any moisture or loose connections can be seen at a glance ,
ok looks a bit basic but it works great & it does get some rough use at times .
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Old 12 October 2016, 15:59   #57
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No, but the board must be on the trailer not the load.
Thats not correct.

Trailer regulations state where lights should be relative to the ground and sides of trailer.

Arranging lights and reflectors:
  • Indicators should be a minimum of 350mm and a maximum of 1500mm from the ground.
  • Indicators should be a maximum of 400mm from the side of the trailer.
  • Indicators should be a minimum of 400mm apart.
  • Reflective rear triangles should be positioned, a minimum of 250mm and a maximum of 900mm from the ground, a minimum separation of 600mm and no more than 400mm from the sides.
  • A single fog lamp should be mounted on the rear of the trailer, anywhere between the centre point and offside edge.
  • Two fog lamps must be separated and positioned at opposite sides of the rear of the trailer.
  • Fog lamps should be a minimum of 250mm and a maximum of 1000mm from the ground.
  • Fog lamps should be a minimum of 400mm apart.
  • There should be at least of 100mm of separation between the fog lights and the tail lights/indicators.
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Old 14 October 2016, 22:27   #58
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It would also mean that all dinghy trailers are illegal ...

But this was three years ago, so things may have changed... 😉
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Old 15 October 2016, 03:26   #59
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It would also mean that all dinghy trailers are illegal ...
It depends why people claim that, I understood it was an issue with the load now being considered part of the trailer and thus for many ribs exceeding the width limits (without the permitted load overhang).

In fact the lighting regs explicitly permit the lights to be "... transferred to a position on the ... load ... where it is not obscured [if it would be obscured on the trailer]." RVLR 1989 reg.21(1)table(6)b

But they will still need to be at the right height and must not be able to swing around.
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Old 15 October 2016, 13:37   #60
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I think we're inferring the same thing? It's not!
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