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Old 07 January 2009, 08:54   #11
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Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
Off topic, but who did you use for galvanising?
There's a firm a mile down the road from me "Premier Galvanising" not the best but not bad
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Old 12 January 2009, 03:35   #12
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Thank you very much for posting the pictures of your trailer which have given me some good ideas and something to aspire to.
I have been trying to source steel (120 x 60 x 6mm) however the closest I can get is 100 x 50 x 4mm. Is there any way I can use this section with a ladder type construction?

If not what size of U-Section channel should I be looking for?
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Old 12 January 2009, 12:21   #13
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Originally Posted by Andy Young2 View Post
Thank you very much for posting the pictures of your trailer which have given me some good ideas and something to aspire to.
I have been trying to source steel (120 x 60 x 6mm) however the closest I can get is 100 x 50 x 4mm. Is there any way I can use this section with a ladder type construction?

If not what size of U-Section channel should I be looking for?
Yes I'd use 100 x 50 x 4 for the bottom section and for the spacers (rungs) and either 50 x 50 x 4 for the top or the 100 x 50 x 4 again

Jim
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Old 11 February 2009, 02:35   #14
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Here is progress so far
this trailer will be for 6.5m rib with 2x75 Yamaha and 150L internal fuel tank.
I plan 4 or 5 crossmembers with keel rollers, i pair of rollers at rear crossmember to guide hull to centre then to fit bunks.
My plan is to make trailer and load bost on fully laden, then trim the trailer to get nose weight right. I have put axles on a separate frame so I can slide them up and down to get balance right then clamp them with 6 U-Bolts.
I am going to make cross members from 80x30 box
Any comments that would help me see potential pitfalls in this design would be much appreciated
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Old 11 February 2009, 03:09   #15
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Originally Posted by Andy Young2 View Post
Here is progress so far
this trailer will be for 6.5m rib with 2x75 Yamaha and 150L internal fuel tank.
I plan 4 or 5 crossmembers with keel rollers, i pair of rollers at rear crossmember to guide hull to centre then to fit bunks.
My plan is to make trailer and load bost on fully laden, then trim the trailer to get nose weight right. I have put axles on a separate frame so I can slide them up and down to get balance right then clamp them with 6 U-Bolts.
I am going to make cross members from 80x30 box
Any comments that would help me see potential pitfalls in this design would be much appreciated
Looks good so far to me, she's a great welder

I'd make the rear cross member heavy duty twin box and u bolt it on so you can move it on the frame to suit your rib

Jim
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Old 11 February 2009, 03:33   #16
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Andy,
Looking good so far .....looks a bit wide though but pics are deceptive, just means extra caution when driving .......i also noted you have welded up the ends etc .........every piece of box section you have must have a hole in it (i used 12mm) or the trailer wont be accepted by the galvanisers.....normally the ends are left open ......I think its so the box section sinks in the hot dip bath ....even the small pieces of section between the lower and upper chassis members need to be drilled ....top and bottom

I assume you are putting on boat rollers with swinging beams ...i'll try and dig out where i bought my rollers from

galvanisers in scotland run at 430 per ton ......both trailers i made around similar size to yours were around 120 -150 inc vat

Ian
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Old 11 February 2009, 04:19   #17
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I assume you are putting on boat rollers with swinging beams ...i'll try and dig out where i bought my rollers from

Ian



Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Young2 View Post
I plan 4 or 5 crossmembers with keel rollers, i pair of rollers at rear crossmember to guide hull to centre then to fit bunks.
Maybe not and the shipping may kill it

Jim
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Old 11 February 2009, 08:24   #18
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Jim

As you can see from the pictures the trailer is built using an existing front 'triangle' of angle with the parallel rails added. The rails are 5.5m in length and the rib hull is 5.3m

As this is the first trailer I have built I was going to fix the rear cross member first (say 9" in from the rear end of the trailer rails) using the measurements from an existing trailer I have seen with the same size rib, and then work forward adding the 4 crossmembers with keel rollers at about a metre spacing and then add a fifth crossmember with a bow catcher 'V'. The winch post etc can go on the angle iron frame.

I was thinking of doing it this way rather than build from the front as I have plenty of space at the front to play with in terms of length but the boat needs to be as far to the rear as possible. At the moment the trailer looks like it will be about right in length. I shall also try to get the keel rollers positioned so that the hull clears the axle by 1 - 1 1/2", is this too close?

Unfortunately the tools I have are two angle grinders (one large and one small), a tape measure and a welder so swinging frames are not an option

Towing etc is not really a popular sport here and there don't appear to be any set rules. For example you cannot get a numberplate for the trailer as the Police control issue and will only give you two for the car. The accepted rule of thumb is that you have a second car follow you with his hazards on. There is no rule to say you must have lights on a trailer so people tow at night with without a following vehicle.

Thanks for your observations I shall keep chipping away.
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Old 12 February 2009, 05:28   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Young2 View Post
Jim

As you can see from the pictures the trailer is built using an existing front 'triangle' of angle with the parallel rails added. The rails are 5.5m in length and the rib hull is 5.3m

As this is the first trailer I have built I was going to fix the rear cross member first (say 9" in from the rear end of the trailer rails) using the measurements from an existing trailer I have seen with the same size rib, and then work forward adding the 4 crossmembers with keel rollers at about a metre spacing and then add a fifth crossmember with a bow catcher 'V'. The winch post etc can go on the angle iron frame.

I was thinking of doing it this way rather than build from the front as I have plenty of space at the front to play with in terms of length but the boat needs to be as far to the rear as possible. At the moment the trailer looks like it will be about right in length. I shall also try to get the keel rollers positioned so that the hull clears the axle by 1 - 1 1/2", is this too close?

Unfortunately the tools I have are two angle grinders (one large and one small), a tape measure and a welder so swinging frames are not an option

Towing etc is not really a popular sport here and there don't appear to be any set rules. For example you cannot get a numberplate for the trailer as the Police control issue and will only give you two for the car. The accepted rule of thumb is that you have a second car follow you with his hazards on. There is no rule to say you must have lights on a trailer so people tow at night with without a following vehicle.

Thanks for your observations I shall keep chipping away.
If it clears by 1" there should not be a problem provided the bow can't dip when launching etc the lower the boat a bunked trailer the less depth of water you need to float it on or off

Are you going to weld the cross members to the rails or bolt them on and will your bunks be adjustable to set the trailer up for the hull shape.

I'd bolt the cross members under the rails with U bolts so you can set the trailer up to the boat, then when your happy you can aways weld them into place

Jim
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Old 12 February 2009, 06:48   #20
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... the lower the boat a bunked trailer the less depth of water you need to float it on or off...
I agree. Unless you've always got deep water, get it a low as possible. Your wheels look quite large diameter and since your axles are straight across the trailer, this is going to limit you to quite a high rig for bunks. Is there any way you can V the centre section of the axles?

Why do you guys angle the vertical spacers between the rails? Is there something I should know?
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