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Old 21 April 2008, 15:25   #1
Country: UK - England
Town: Essex
Boat name: Crooked Bow
Make: Zodiac Pro Open 550
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude etec 115
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 36
Trailer brake damper replacement

Dear All,
Has anyone any experience of replacing a Bradley Doublelock brake damper? I can see one retaining bolt which attaches the damper to the drawbar end of the coupling body. The other end goes into the drawtube, however, without dismantling the whole assembly it is unclear how I release this end from the coupling/drawtube. I am assuming that I need to remove one of the two bolts that secure the coupling head to the drawtube - can anyone offer any insight/advice as to replacement of the damper??

Regards Dave

Dave; Essex
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Old 22 April 2008, 03:55   #2
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Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,837
If it is anything like the draw bar on an Indespension trailer when you take the coupling off by undoing the two large bolts you will find the end of damper has a round eye on the end which fits through one of the bolts.


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Old 22 April 2008, 07:35   #3
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,056
Piccy would be good to see what it looks like, but any hitches I've done, Knotts, Alko etc all work roughly the same, the ball or eye head usually has two bolts securing it to the draw tube, the 2nd of which usually goes through the eyelet of the damper as Pete said

The other end of the damper secures to the hitch body some 12 - 18 inches further back on the hitch by another bolt (or two) Normally the damper is under slight compression, with your trailer unhooked, but if yours has failed, it might be slack.

When you put the new damper in, fit the draw tube end first, then you have to lever the back end into place to line up your bolt hole, this is sometimes a bit tricky as you will normally have to compress it as you do so. I usually drop a screw driver or some sort of locator into the hole when its roughly aligned, then reposition my leverage to adjust it up more carefully so I can get my bolt to run in easily, without the risk of cross threading it
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