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Old 16 January 2008, 13:37   #21
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Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
I have seen old trailers with solid rods operating the brakes - aren't these still used???
Yep they are. I used rods on all three axles when I built my trailer. They are terminated with a short length of plain cable into the rear of the brake.
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Old 16 January 2008, 13:39   #22
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see pictures, easy and very efficient
yorfuoj, it's not clear to see in your picture, have you a compensating mechanism in order to ensure both brakes are applied equally?
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Old 16 January 2008, 15:56   #23
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brakes

yes, I kept the original compensating system.

There is a balancing bracket attached to the main rod (coming from the main coupler), on a knee joint, the cables are fixed each side of it, so if a brake shoe became worn before the other, the cable length is compensated.

In addition, each cable has its own threaded end to adjust at rest, see picture.

But most - if not all - trailers are made this way.


Another solution was to make the system without cable, just rods and levers. I started with this first idea, then I prefered the cable.

Reason : if the cable hit something on the road, it will absorb better the impact than a rod, which would remain bent and actuate one brake up to destruction.
And I found the cable easier to build, it was done in 3 hours.
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Old 16 January 2008, 18:48   #24
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Pete - I fully appreciate the upside to the likes of Knott/Avonride.....but personally I would pay extra and avoid the hassle. Avoiding a weekend messing around with brakes, cables and hubs in my opinion has to be worth £400.00 - in fact it has to be worth a grand on the new price!
Just invested in a hub flush kit - fingers crossed!

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Dave your missing the point, its very profitable to sell new parts for trailers every year why would you make something that doesn't wear out or sieze. You could have stainless steel brake components but if it added £400 to the cost of the trailer which one would people buy?

Pete
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Old 17 January 2008, 09:09   #25
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Personally I think Stainless disc brakes are the way to go, and if you convert to open cables it's just the bearings to worry about!

Not sure if discs are ok in Europe yet, but I think they run them in the States?
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 17 January 2008, 10:42   #26
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Personally I think Stainless disc brakes are the way to go, and if you convert to open cables it's just the bearings to worry about!

Not sure if discs are ok in Europe yet, but I think they run them in the States?
Have done quite a bit of reseach on the preferences in the USA. Firstly cable brakes are hardly ever used. Hydraulic surge brakes are the preference as are disk brakes and the top of the line disks are a stainless/bronze alloy.
Don't know the cost yet. I have had the hydraulic set up and it works very well; virtually maintenance free. Just check the fluid level in the master cylinder once a year.
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Old 17 January 2008, 11:24   #27
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Disc Brakes

My new Dixon-Bate trailer has disc brakes. They look the biz. Calipers are big and chunky. Wheel off, undo two bolts and one clip and the caliper is on the bench. Caliper could be stainless but not sure yet. Clearances between moving parts are large so much less chance of it seazing. I stripped and greased them just in case though.

Best bit is that you can remove the brakes without disturbing the bearing. Keeps the rust out of the bearing.

Also the cables are much larger diameter than the normal "caravan" type bowden cr@p. The inner cable looks like stainless coated with plastic (like throttle cables) - they run very free and look like they will need no lubrication. Probably no real need for hydraulics with this type of cable.

Discs are normal steel type - not sure stainless discs would be ideal - might warp more easily. Not sure that stainless is necessary - the discs are so exposed that cleaning them is dead easy. Any salt water will be centrifuged off or taken off by the pads.

The braking power is immense. Really feel a strong but smooth braking action.


Richard
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Old 17 January 2008, 11:52   #28
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I've looked into Disc brakes quite a bit, but haven't found any that meet current UK Auto reverse legislation.

Richard
What mechanism does your trailer have for auto reverse? Assuming its legal of course.

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Old 17 January 2008, 13:28   #29
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The inner pad is mounted on an eccentric swivel. When the coupling is pushed in when reversing the brake applies as normal but the rotation of the disc causes the inner pad to swing backwards and away from the disc, releasing the pressure. The outer pad floats with the caliper. When the cable tension is released, the return spring pulls the inner pad forward and outwards, and back into its original position. The return spring is pretty heafty.

The coupling is more complex and has a "Reverse Action Lever" not sure what part this plays but will find out at the weekend.

The pins that hold this mechanism may be a source of trouble if not greased now and then however it only takes a few minutes to strip the whole thing down and you don't have to go anywhere near the bearing. The pins are held in place with quick release clips. They will probaly corrode so will get a stock of these.

You can feel the brake applying and then releasing more than with drum brakes.

Richard
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Old 17 January 2008, 20:01   #30
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Richard,
This sounds like a significant improvement - not sure why this is not offered as an option on all trailers - some customers would willingly pay more this upgrade. As per usual, the americans appear well ahead of us on this!!
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Old 17 January 2008, 21:18   #31
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Richard,
This sounds like a significant improvement - not sure why this is not offered as an option on all trailers - some customers would willingly pay more this upgrade. As per usual, the americans appear well ahead of us on this!!
Why as per usual? Their cars leave a lot to be desired.............
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Old 17 January 2008, 21:44   #32
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The inner pad is mounted on an eccentric swivel. When the coupling is pushed in when reversing the brake applies as normal but the rotation of the disc causes the inner pad to swing backwards and away from the disc, releasing the pressure. The outer pad floats with the caliper.
Richard, from your description is sounds as though the trailer hand brake will not work if the trailer is disconnected from the car with it's stern facing down hill.
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The coupling is more complex and has a "Reverse Action Lever" not sure what part this plays but will find out at the weekend.
Maybe this device is the fix for it. Would you report back please after you've sussed it and dunked it into salt water a few times? Ta.
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Old 17 January 2008, 21:45   #33
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Why as per usual? Their cars leave a lot to be desired.............
Fekoff.
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Old 17 January 2008, 21:56   #34
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Fekoff.
DITTO
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Old 17 January 2008, 22:17   #35
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Whoops sorry I forgot some people still like leaf springs..............
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Old 17 January 2008, 22:48   #36
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Whoops sorry I forgot some people still like leaf springs..............
Fekoff.

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Old 18 January 2008, 02:55   #37
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Isn't that the noise Yank cars make when they come to a corner???
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Old 18 January 2008, 09:32   #38
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Now you're just being naughty.

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