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Old 22 April 2007, 16:29   #1
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Trailer bearings

Having spent the day tidying up the trailer for the new season I now have some concerns about the bearings as there is some play if you hold the wheal and rock from side to side. I have had the trailer about three years and they have not been changed in that time (but well looked after) I would like to have a go at replacing them myself so I know how to do it if I ever have a problem on the road but have not done this before.
While the trailer is old it’s not in bad condition but there is no make on it and I can’t see any names on the hubs etc. I have done a couple of searches but most of the information I have found assume you know the basics. Can any give a bit of help on this for me please? It’s an unbreaked trailer and if the picture works looks like this.

Many thanks
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Old 22 April 2007, 16:46   #2
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You need to change them ASAP before a wheel falls off. Collapse can be sudden.

Assuming you've got taper roller bearings:-

Under the black plastic cap (which you can lever off) is the bearing retaining nut and split pin. Undo it and the whole lot comes out.

Take the whole hub/bearing unit to somewhere who sells them and ask what it is. Buy new hubs and bearings (it's not much more than bearings alone).

You need to tension the bearing when you reassemble it.You tension the bearing with the retaining nut you need the wheel to rotate freely without any play. Don't forget the split pin.

If you need more info than this, the best thing to do is to pay a trailer centre to do it for you and show you step by step.
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Old 22 April 2007, 16:50   #3
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Neal,

Step by step gide here (read full thread as there were a couple of small corrections made to my steps).
http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...&highlight=hub
Hope this helps.

Neil

Matt, just seen your reply. Do you go with no play at all? Don't they bind if you do that? I was always told tight, and a slight turn (1/4 or so) back so they have a tiny bit of play
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Old 22 April 2007, 17:00   #4
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Originally Posted by Neil Harvey View Post
Neal,

Step by step gide here (read full thread as there were a couple of small corrections made to my steps).
http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...&highlight=hub
Hope this helps.

Neil

Matt, just seen your reply. Do you go with no play at all? Don't they bind if you do that? I was always told tight, and a slight turn (1/4 or so) back so they have a tiny bit of play
I do them the same way I do car bearings and bike headstocks-tighten til there's no play but rotation isn't slowed. It's quite easy to achieve if you use plenty of grease. Taper rollers wear faster if there's slack in them.
If the castellated nut doesn't line up with the split pin at that point I'll back it off til it does rather than over tighten.
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Old 23 April 2007, 03:06   #5
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Thanks gents I will have a look at them tonight, does not sound too bad a job. I will have a look on the web for local trailer centre today. Last night found some bearings in a box of bits the bloke i got the trailer from gave me so that could be an option to make them safe in the short term.
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Old 23 April 2007, 03:48   #6
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I got my last lot of bearings from Indaspention and they where (top of my head £11) but the chap in the shop offered me new hubs with bearings fitted for about £14. Guess which ones I got. Bit of grease and away you go.

Going to replace them once more this week.
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Old 23 April 2007, 03:58   #7
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Matt, just seen your reply. Do you go with no play at all? Don't they bind if you do that? I was always told tight, and a slight turn (1/4 or so) back so they have a tiny bit of play
This is also how I was told to do mine (by everyone, including the bloke who sold me the parts) - 1/4 turn back. This allows you to move the wheel from side to side, very very slightly once assembled.
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Old 23 April 2007, 05:49   #8
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Originally Posted by wavecrosschris View Post
This is also how I was told to do mine (by everyone, including the bloke who sold me the parts) - 1/4 turn back. This allows you to move the wheel from side to side, very very slightly once assembled.
1/4 turn back sounds a lot we only take them back if the castle nut doesn't line up and then only a minimal amount, most important is to grease them and use it when you assemble the bearings so they go in wet
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Old 23 April 2007, 07:01   #9
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- 1/4 turn back.
Unless you cross-drill the end of the stub axle, you can't do a ¼ turn back cos the nut has six sides. Tighten them firmly and spin the wheel to seat the bearings, slacken them back, take up all the slack again and undo the nut one or two flats. Fit the split pin. I say one or two flats because there is always a bit of give in the thread clearance, thrust washer etc. and it varies a little from wheel to wheel. It also depends how heavy handed you are with the instruction 'take up the slack'.

However, Neal, judging from your picture, I wouldn't be surprised if the bearings are fine and you only need to regrease and adjust them.
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Old 23 April 2007, 07:56   #10
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However, Neal, judging from your picture, I wouldn't be surprised if the bearings are fine and you only need to regrease and adjust them.
Hi JW the picture could be giving a false view as i spent the weekend cleaning all the trailer etc i did notice a lot of grease on the rear of the wheels if that helps that i have not noticed before. When you say adjust them could you give some more details please. Is there better way to test them. There is not a lot of movment. Once i take them appart does that break a seal to stop them going back. I dont mind spending the money on new but want to learn from this.

Regards and thanks to all
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