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Old 18 April 2015, 15:47   #1
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Towing

Thinking of towing with the engine down as it bounces around a lot and I have tried everything; what should the clearance be? When might I encounter problems with towing when the engine is down?
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Old 18 April 2015, 15:50   #2
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Thinking of towing with the engine down as it bounces around a lot and I have tried everything; what should the clearance be? When might I encounter problems with towing when the engine is down?
Speed humps
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Old 18 April 2015, 15:51   #3
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I was thinking that; my intend destination has none on route however you never know; does anyone else tow with the engine down?
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Old 18 April 2015, 15:59   #4
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I tow other boats with my engine down 😜
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Old 18 April 2015, 16:46   #5
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I was thinking that; my intend destination has none on route however you never know; does anyone else tow with the engine down?

Personally I'd never consider towing with the engine down, I'd address the problem with towing with the engine up.


.....sh1t happens.......
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Old 18 April 2015, 16:56   #6
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Old 18 April 2015, 18:38   #7
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I have towed both ways with no probs you can buy an extension bar that fits your trailer with a padded v your engine sits in strap it up not going anywhere then
in the past with manual tilt engine we put a piece of wood between the engine and transom clamp and strap down
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Old 18 April 2015, 18:51   #8
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what should the clearance be?
I did some experiments and mine is probably fine with it down, the problem is not simply clearance under the skeg (that would give you the height of small obstacle you could clear) but everytime the car goes over a bump or down a ramp it effectively lifts the front of the trailer and dips the back of the boat. If that happens to coincide with a bump or lump under the skeg it could get pricey!
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Old 18 April 2015, 18:53   #9
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I tow many miles...important to get the Trailer set up properly for the Boat is first priority!
Helps to spread the load evenly,and pre-empts a lot of of other problems!...
For me it's Engine down 2/3 lowered hydraulicly onto a large piece of SHAPED Softwood,to take strain off Ram...it will actually bite into wood and be VERY stable.I don't think the standard engine locks are upto the strains incurred towing long distances with a big engine!
I have the Engine turned to full lock Port and strapped with at least two ratchets and secured to trailer to stop any bounce..on a 250HPyou want it secure!
Boat is secured to trailer at front with winch and Separate ratchet strap (or safety chain)Rear large strap through towing eyes.
Check regularly on the trip!
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Old 18 April 2015, 19:08   #10
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This is what I made.

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Old 18 April 2015, 19:11   #11
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I just sit mine (old boat and new) on the stand thingy that is attached to the saddle (main and aux). Never had a problem, even on our roads.
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Old 19 April 2015, 15:46   #12
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I've had two nylatron rods turned to about 50mm in diameter with a 19mm hole bored half way down their length (just longer than the exposed length of the trim rams.) and with the last 20mm turned down to 30mm. With the engine fully tilted I slide these over the trim rams then lower the engine until it bottoms on the rods. You just get then made to the length that suits the angle you want the engine to rest at. Then I put a ratchet strap from the tilt pin holes round the gearbox to hold it down. I've had wooden blocks fall out before, the manufactures latch doesn't inspire confidence and I've seen leaking seals cause the engine to progressively drop over time.
Not expensive, if you've got access to a lathe make them yourself or get an engineering workshop to make them for you. I supplied the nylatron and the turner (bagpipe manufacturer) made them for £20.........
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Old 19 April 2015, 15:58   #13
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I've had two nylatron rods turned to about 50mm in diameter with a 19mm hole bored half way down their length (just longer than the exposed length of the trim rams.) and with the last 20mm turned down to 30mm. With the engine fully tilted I slide these over the trim rams then lower the engine until it bottoms on the rods. You just get then made to the length that suits the angle you want the engine to rest at. Then I put a ratchet strap from the tilt pin holes round the gearbox to hold it down. I've had wooden blocks fall out before, the manufactures latch doesn't inspire confidence and I've seen leaking seals cause the engine to progressively drop over time.

Not expensive, if you've got access to a lathe make them yourself or get an engineering workshop to make them for you. I supplied the nylatron and the turner (bagpipe manufacturer) made them for £20.........

That's sounds a neat idea got any pics 😎👍🏻
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Old 19 April 2015, 19:46   #14
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Old 19 April 2015, 19:50   #15
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Top job 👍🏻
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Old 19 April 2015, 22:17   #16
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What a good idea. Very neat and tidy.

I just know that if I had something like that myself, I'd forget to take them off before launching the boat though!
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Old 20 April 2015, 04:46   #17
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What a good idea. Very neat and tidy.

I just know that if I had something like that myself, I'd forget to take them off before launching the boat though!
But you have to think of the potential entertainment value for the inevitable spectators ...........
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