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Old 28 December 2014, 12:43   #11
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once you have got rid of the loose rust and cleaned all the metal work down , use Galvafroid paint it has a high zinc content and will help keep rust at bay !.
Also remember to use A4 stainless fixings if its going in the sea.
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Old 31 December 2014, 20:09   #12
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Galvafroid's good stuff, it's not cheap and the tin's really heavy because of all the zinc in it.

I'd concentrate on supporting the tubes and transom while you tow the boat, to be fair it might be worth sticking with a flat trailer and letting some air out of the keel when on the road.

If you're towing with the (50kg) engine on the boat it might be worth thinking about supporting the transom or the leg.


Jim
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Old 04 January 2015, 13:16   #13
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Got some better pictures of the trailer stripped! I've been taking some wet n' dry paper to it to get some of the surface rust off! I'm not going to go with expensive stuff for the paint as I can't see me using this trailer after 2015, and I won't be using it much anyway this year (at most it'll be used 20 times) hence why I'm not going to huge efforts. I will be saving up for a new trailer for the SIB.

I've got a design now, two bunks, one on each side and then two new bunk posts to support the transom (where the existing ones are, which will be replaced), and a transom saver that slots into the chassis on the trailer to take the engine leg. But it occured to me that it's not good to stop the bunks short of the transom as that could cause bending. I had a counter arguement (from my father who is helping me with this build) that it would be unsafe to tow the trailer with the bunks extended past the transom as the wood could bend and snap... but the axle can be moved back to prevent this (as the bunk supports are welded to the axle). What are your verdicts? The wood I'm using is C16 treated timber that is 3600x45x75mm which will be covered in bright green cord carpet as suggested.
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Old 04 January 2015, 13:34   #14
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You may be better useing non treated timber I'm sure I have been told somewhere /been on a job locally and the copper used in treated timber should not be used with galvanised metal or salt water the copper used in the treatment can cause a reaction, just a thought to bear in mind.
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Old 04 January 2015, 13:36   #15
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These are the bunks I plan on using for the transom:
Pair Of Side / buffer channel bracket & Rubber Bunks,300 stems boat trailer Part | eBay

And to attach the clamps I will be using this fitting kit (designed for jockey wheels but oh well):
Jockey wheel clamp fixing kit for trailers & caravans | eBay

However the bunks are out of stock at the moment. Would there be any harm in using these instead?
2 X Parallel side roller bracket, roller, 440mm Stem And Clamp For Boat Trailer | eBay

Or are rollers a definate 100% do not pass go do not collect 200 don't get them for SIBs?
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Old 04 January 2015, 14:21   #16
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2 long bunks running just inside the tubes, and extending beyond the transom will work fine. Maybe another center bunk to support the front at the keel line before the bow rise.

Not sure how you plan on using the roller things you just posted. Those (I believe) are designed to be mounted vertically along the freeboard to keep the back of the boat centered on the trailer in wind or current.

jky
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Old 04 January 2015, 14:46   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
2 long bunks running just inside the tubes, and extending beyond the transom will work fine. Maybe another center bunk to support the front at the keel line before the bow rise.

Not sure how you plan on using the roller things you just posted. Those (I believe) are designed to be mounted vertically along the freeboard to keep the back of the boat centered on the trailer in wind or current.

jky
The bunks/rollers if I didn't have the bunks extending past the transom would be used to support the transom, they would be in place of where the old ones are on the back of the trailer (see the above pictures)
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Old 05 January 2015, 01:58   #18
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So mounted crosswise under the transom? You'd have to be pretty precise with locating the boat on the trailer.

You don't need to support the transom across its width (as it's not going to flex); you need to support it relative to the rest of the boat (as the motor hangs off of it and not supporting it puts stress forward.)

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Old 17 January 2015, 10:36   #19
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Just thought I'd update! The bunks under the transom idea has gone, the transom will be aupported by the bunks going under the floor. I've been sanding the trailer down but the rain has been slowing my progress

I've also bought two new dust caps for the hubs but can't for the life of me get them on, full of grease or not! I've tried tapping them in using circular motions, and all sorts! They measure 50mm, same as the old ones and the ad even said they were suitable for most 1" taper hubs! Any ideas? Hopefully will be cracking on with the trailer again very soon!
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Old 17 January 2015, 11:43   #20
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I rebuilt one of our club trailers over Xmas and had the same problem,
I put a taper on the leading edge of the cap with wet and dry. It then tapped in with a block of wood and was a snug fit.
Snow and cold has slowed me up a bit today, the joys of working out side year round.
I love it really !.
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