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Old 28 January 2011, 19:27   #21
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Ouch

That must have been a wild ride

It's your call but I don't think putting concentrated mechanical presure on the toobs is good, particularly if near a partition.

Good to talk today BTW
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Old 29 January 2011, 19:39   #22
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Nasher,

Thank you for sharing your experiences with us. I previously used to own a light weight Phantom the Ribraft 585 weighs so much more therefore I need to give this problem some serious consideration.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
It always helps to learn from others misfortune and mistakes, so here goes:

Example 1
I’ll admit it, my Ocean 6.5 came off its trailer a few years back, so this is a subject close to my heart.
It wasn’t much more than a bare hull and tubes at the time, but with an old VRO150 on the back that came with it.
I was transporting it the mile or so backwards and forwards from the yard to my house every other weekend to work on it, and got a bit complacent about the length of the journey and doing a good job of strapping it down.
As I pulled away from a junction the winch wire snapped at the point where it was spliced to the hook, and the 12mm braid on braid rope that was through the towing eyes on the transom snapped in the middle where it was wrapped around the rear swing beam on the trailer.
Being a roller trailer it stayed still whilst the trailer moved forward and it plonked itself on the ground. Luckily it was a quiet back road and a neighbour who was passing helped me winch it back on once I’d tied the cable to the bow eye.
Planned work for that weekend was put on hold, and I spent the weekend laying on my back with the boat reversed off the trailer a couple of feet whilst I cut the damaged back 6 inches out of the bottom of the hull and rebuilt it with matting etc.
The old Johnson lost a bit of it’s skeg, but probably saved the hull from more damage.

Example 2
Many Years ago we were travelling up the A3 late one evening in my Fathers company car, a Sierra, with a Force 4 Flatacraft on its trailer behind. My father possibly dozed off, we’ll never know for sure, but we went off the road down the small bank and hit a tree head on. The dash board came backwards towards us, but the worst bit was the Flatacraft landing on the roof which came down towards us whilst the sunroof and rear windscreen shattered. Apart from my Fathers pride none of us were injured.
The ratchet strap over the tubes near the stern had sheared one of the welded on anchor points off the trailer. The bow of the RIB was attached by the winch cable plus a rope from the winch post around the handles on the hard bow. The whole winch post was still hanging off the bow of the RIB because all 3 ‘U’ Bolts holding it down to the main spine had sheared cleanly off.
The RIB had some VERY minor scratches on the hull, and the 45HP Suzuki was completely undamaged.
My father being in his 60’s was taken off to hospital for a check over whilst we stayed and watched the recovery crane lift the boat off the car and recover the whole rig.
The Sierra being only 4 months old at the time was re-shelled instead of being written off.



I’m in no way saying what I do is the best way, it’s just my solution based on what I’ve seen and experienced in the past.

I currently use a really heavy duty ratchet strap over the tubes, I will never use rope again to hold the boat on the trailer. On longer journeys I use strips of old carpet between the strap and tubes for protection.
The strap goes between the 'A' frame and glued on mooring cleats, which would stop forwards or backwards movement if required.

The strap is wrapped around the trailers main chassis rails on either side, as I won’t trust welded or bolted on attachment points.
At the ratchet end the hook is doubled back and hooked on to the mechanism.
At the ‘free’ end, I have a short length of strap about 1’ long, rated at 5tns, with a welded eye in either end that is normally used for vehicle recovery. This is wrapped around the trailers main chassis tube and the ratchet strap hook passed through the two ends of the short strap.

At the bow I use a winch strap rather than a wire, and again I use a piece of 5tn strap meant for vehicle recovery as a backup.
This has a triangular welded ring in one end and a sewn in loop at the other.
I wrap the strap around the main chassis rail just in front of the winch post and pass the eye through the loop trapping the chassis rail tightly. The fee end is then passed up through the winch post and Shackled to the Bow eye on the RIB, preventing the boat moving forward or back more than a short distance if the winch strap parts, and will limit movement even if the winch post breaks loose.

Nasher.
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Old 29 January 2011, 19:52   #23
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Thanks to everyone

Well, I am very surprised with the amount of responses to my initial post. I thought it may of been a dumb question.

It would appear that strapping over the tubes is not the way to go. I will have to have a play around with some new gear.

Thanks again to you all.

Paul
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Old 30 January 2011, 08:32   #24
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I'm planning to change my set up to include;

Short heavy duty lorry ratchet on left tow eye.
Short heavy duty lorry ratchet on right tow eye

Replace bow rope tie down with one of the threaded wite tensioners as used on fencing (can't find a picture).

Reasons;
2 straps at the back allow for equal pull down, I think the single 1 currently twists the boat rather than pull square down, also gives redundancy should one fail.

With the winch strap attached and the bow rope pulling slightly back wards then a vertical hold is required. There isn't enough room for an HD strap and the lightweight ones are unreliable so the tensioner seems like a good idea to me
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Old 30 January 2011, 10:30   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
It always helps to learn from others misfortune and mistakes, so here goes:
........What Nasher said (to save taking up a full screen with this post)......

Nasher.
Hopefully without offending anyone-and bear in mind I've carried pretty much every load going at some point.


To be brutally frank, if you're in a head on collision with another vehicle or an immovable object, there's no hope of keeping the boat on the trailer whatever you do. All you can do is to keep the boat on the trailer safely during normal transport conditions-everything from a crap potholed cart track up to the motorway. Accidents create such massive loads on restraint systems that nothing reasonable is going to stop them breaking.

The trick is not to be in the accident in the 1st place.
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Old 05 February 2011, 21:19   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian M View Post
Paul,
I work in Christchurch, so if you need some hands on advice only too willing to visit and chat.
Ian
Ian,

Thank you for your kind offer if I get stuck I will drop you a line.

Cheers, Paul
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Old 06 February 2011, 08:24   #27
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I find these are perfect - if a bit pricey > though they dont sieze and then rip your fingers apart trying to undo them

http://www.topsandstrops.com/acatalo...et_Straps.html
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Old 06 February 2011, 10:32   #28
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Union Industries in Leeds will make up just about any combination of ratchet straps to your own spec. I had a couple of short 5tonne straps made with stainless steel ratchets when I got the "Pig". If you're local, they have a trade counter where you can discuss your requirements face to face & choose the appropriate hooks, catches, "D" links etc.
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Old 06 February 2011, 12:16   #29
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if a bit pricey
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Old 03 March 2011, 09:53   #30
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well if its confessing time we had a 4.5m rib roll over on a roundabout whilst being towed by a young instructor (obviously not me then!) rather enthusiatically behind a very quick car. The boat was strapped over the tubes and attached at the bow by the winch strap and a safety chain. The o/b was unscathed, the boat suffered a very slightly scuffed consol and a shattered windscreen but with the help of passing motorists was rolled upright again and continued on its journey. So we have always towed with a strap over the tubes and will continue to do so as the strap saved the day on that occasion. I will also never ever have that make of trailer again-boat sat high on it and the c of g up there with it.
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Old 04 March 2011, 13:40   #31
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I use ratchet straps attached to the trailer and the rings on the transom, plus an extra ratchet strap for the ring in the bow plus the winch strap plus a strap across the tubes but this is not under a great deal of tension, just helps keep the cover from blowing around when on the moterway.
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Old 25 July 2012, 10:30   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piranha580 View Post
I've only or one eye on the transom as I have an auxiliary bracket on the other side.. So I ratchet strap fromthe trailer up around the ski pole and then down the opposite side to the trailer.. Works very well.. I then have a lengthy bit of rope from the bow eye down the trailer and doubled back up and then forward and tied just under the winch.. Stops any movement! Deffo don't tie over the tubes.. I did it once when I picked the boat up and by the time I got home.. The tubes were well soft and the strap was really loose.. It can chaff the tubes too and cause a lot of pressure on seals and valves!
I too have the same issue, i.e. one towing eye due to auxiliary engine, do you think the A-frame would take the pressure of two ratchet straps down to the trailer.

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Old 25 July 2012, 10:42   #33
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7.5M Rib. I use the two rear eyes on the transom with ratchet straps to the trailer. The front eye to the winch ratchet with a further ratchet from the front to another part of the trailer at the front. Usually the boat cover will be on and for short journeys I dont put any straps over the top over the tubes, however for longer journeys I do put straps over the top over the tubes but only tight enough to stop the cover flapping.

Just using straps over the tubes isnt a good idea, you need to ratchet the boat down from front and back, tow at front and two at back recomended as they can break.
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Old 25 July 2012, 10:46   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boristhebold View Post
7.5M Rib. I use the two rear eyes on the transom with ratchet straps to the trailer. The front eye to the winch ratchet with a further ratchet from the front to another part of the trailer at the front. Usually the boat cover will be on and for short journeys I dont put any straps over the top over the tubes, however for longer journeys I do put straps over the top over the tubes but only tight enough to stop the cover flapping.

Just using straps over the tubes isnt a good idea, you need to ratchet the boat down from front and back, tow at front and two at back recomended as they can break.
If you didn't have two rear eyes would your A-frame be strong enough for the ratchet straps to the trailer?
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Old 25 July 2012, 10:57   #35
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Hi Will

I strap my Osprey down at the rear with two ratchet straps going 45degs down to two lugs i welded into place when i built the trailer. Obviously if your trailer doesnt have lugs then you can use the crossbeam or suitable stong point to attach to. It clears my auxy with no issues. If its a case of no towing eye existing can you not pass the strap up through the outboard saddle then back down to the trailer frame?

I went a bit OTT with the bow, i trailer it with a 2.5t strap passed through the eye down to two more lugs welded on the crossbeam further aft. I also welded a lug onto the winchpost and shackle through it as a failsafe. I keep the winch strap wound up but not excessively tight.

Simon
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Old 25 July 2012, 14:40   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anchorhandler
Hi Will

I strap my Osprey down at the rear with two ratchet straps going 45degs down to two lugs i welded into place when i built the trailer. Obviously if your trailer doesnt have lugs then you can use the crossbeam or suitable stong point to attach to. It clears my auxy with no issues. If its a case of no towing eye existing can you not pass the strap up through the outboard saddle then back down to the trailer frame?

I went a bit OTT with the bow, i trailer it with a 2.5t strap passed through the eye down to two more lugs welded on the crossbeam further aft. I also welded a lug onto the winchpost and shackle through it as a failsafe. I keep the winch strap wound up but not excessively tight.

Simon
can I ask what the reasoning of the front strap to rear, I though that is pulling Thr boat off the trailer ?

S.
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Old 25 July 2012, 15:29   #37
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can I ask what the reasoning of the front strap to rear, I though that is pulling Thr boat off the trailer ?

S.
Hi SPR

If you think of what would happen in the event of even a minor frontal collision, the boat, because of its inertia will naturally try to continue at the same speed as the trailer was traveling at prior to the sudden deceleration. Gwenn weigs in at just over 1600kgs which a lot of energy to try to stop. Without a front strap i would be concerned she would ride up and over the bow snubber eventually causing the winch strap to 'snap' tight again.
Shock loading any kind of strap or sling can impose a massive increase in the loading it experiences potentially causing a failure. (one of the reasons lifting slings have an inherent safety factor built in)

By pulling back on the bow against the winch strap you are effectively canceling any chance of the boat shooting forwards (obviously only to the UTS of the rear facing ratchet strap) The downward angle of the strap also causes a downward thrust on the bow should she get pushed forwards.

Because Gwenn overhangs the rear of the trailer by approx 500mm, the two rear straps are in effect putting a very slight forward thrust on the boat potentially helping her to ride forward and over the bow snubber. It also helps to reduce the chance of ripping the winch post of the front cross beam (although my winch post is held on quite well with 3x12mm high grade U bolts so in effect 6 1émm nuts to shear off)

I built the trailer with this in mind and for the cost of welding in a couple of pad eyes and a decent ratchet strap it's IMHO, money well spent.

Simon
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Old 25 July 2012, 16:14   #38
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no problem makes sense, I have strap going right angles to trailer pulling the not down to trailer - I have smaller rib
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Old 25 July 2012, 19:52   #39
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oops!

Get it wrong and this happens
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Old 28 July 2012, 00:32   #40
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That was Beckum in practise for the Olympics.....

Just a point, for safety as well as the nose attached to the ratchet strap, I also rope an inside eyelet to the front of the trailer. A loose ton and a half of boat frightens me.

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