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Old 23 January 2011, 06:35   #11
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agreed

that's what I meant when i said Vice versa at the bow
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Old 23 January 2011, 18:18   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee View Post
Don't forget to prevent the boat moving forward on the trailer - if your straps go from the ski eyes forward then you will need a strap going from the bow eye towards the rear of the trailer - I have seen one or two boat trying to mount the car as everything is trying to pull the boat forwards!
The rope on mine goes vertically down from the bow eye to the main trailer frame so it can't move forwards (unless the winch post / bow snubber snaps right off) as in order to move forwards the bow would have to rise and it has about 6 lengths of 2 ton rope holding it down
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Old 24 January 2011, 09:59   #13
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Similar thing to Bogmonster, but I have a length of wire with another hook. It is clamped round the first cross beam, and is kept vaguely near the winch when not in use by a length of bungee. It gets clipped on as the bow eye goes past, and ends up in slight tension as the bow hits the snubber. On the assumption my stern straps (two short hook / ratchet lines) are actually pulling forward slightly (as described above), I do rely on the winch strap, as there are also two other straps to prevent aft movement should it snap.

Avoid straps over the toobs - the "solar load" will change toob pressure incredibly as you drive, so the nice tight straps you had when you left the beach may be flapping in the breeze on the M3/5/8/20 (delete as applicable) when the sun goes down.
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Old 26 January 2011, 18:40   #14
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I've only or one eye on the transom as I have an auxiliary bracket on the other side.. So I ratchet strap fromthe trailer up around the ski pole and then down the opposite side to the trailer.. Works very well.. I then have a lengthy bit of rope from the bow eye down the trailer and doubled back up and then forward and tied just under the winch.. Stops any movement! Deffo don't tie over the tubes.. I did it once when I picked the boat up and by the time I got home.. The tubes were well soft and the strap was really loose.. It can chaff the tubes too and cause a lot of pressure on seals and valves!
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Old 27 January 2011, 11:20   #15
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Ratchet strap over the tubes...Noooooooooooooooooo, my pet hate
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Old 27 January 2011, 11:35   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burtox View Post
I have on recently bought a rib and was wondering what is the best way to secure it to the trailer? Currently I put a large ratchet strap over the tubes. I do have concerns that this make over pressurise the tubes. My Ribcraft 585 is on a rollercoaster trailer Ive tried to use the rear towing point on the transom without much joy as there isnt really anywhere to secure it on the trailer. I you could let me know what you do with your RIB it would put my mind at rest.

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Old 27 January 2011, 16:12   #17
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Nothing wrong with ratchet straps if you get good quality ones
Very true. I normally replace every other season. I've had two break on me over the years, due to sea water deteriorating the fabric, which then the dry out, and finally break under tension, etc. Now I always attach a secondary rope from the bow eye to the winch post, and secure the stern using the towing eyes.
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Old 27 January 2011, 17:39   #18
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Call me old fashioned

but how does sea water get on the ratchet webbing, surely the straps are off when the boat is in contact with the water. Having asked that question its still good practice to change fastenings periodically
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Old 27 January 2011, 18:24   #19
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I've today helped a lorry driver load 3X 5 Tonne crates to the back of a flat bed. All he used was 3 ratchet straps per crate. He used a length of wood in the handle of the ratchet to tension the strap. So again I'll vouch for the humble ratchet strap doing it's thing
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Old 28 January 2011, 14:37   #20
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It always helps to learn from others misfortune and mistakes, so here goes:

Example 1
I’ll admit it, my Ocean 6.5 came off its trailer a few years back, so this is a subject close to my heart.
It wasn’t much more than a bare hull and tubes at the time, but with an old VRO150 on the back that came with it.
I was transporting it the mile or so backwards and forwards from the yard to my house every other weekend to work on it, and got a bit complacent about the length of the journey and doing a good job of strapping it down.
As I pulled away from a junction the winch wire snapped at the point where it was spliced to the hook, and the 12mm braid on braid rope that was through the towing eyes on the transom snapped in the middle where it was wrapped around the rear swing beam on the trailer.
Being a roller trailer it stayed still whilst the trailer moved forward and it plonked itself on the ground. Luckily it was a quiet back road and a neighbour who was passing helped me winch it back on once I’d tied the cable to the bow eye.
Planned work for that weekend was put on hold, and I spent the weekend laying on my back with the boat reversed off the trailer a couple of feet whilst I cut the damaged back 6 inches out of the bottom of the hull and rebuilt it with matting etc.
The old Johnson lost a bit of it’s skeg, but probably saved the hull from more damage.

Example 2
Many Years ago we were travelling up the A3 late one evening in my Fathers company car, a Sierra, with a Force 4 Flatacraft on its trailer behind. My father possibly dozed off, we’ll never know for sure, but we went off the road down the small bank and hit a tree head on. The dash board came backwards towards us, but the worst bit was the Flatacraft landing on the roof which came down towards us whilst the sunroof and rear windscreen shattered. Apart from my Fathers pride none of us were injured.
The ratchet strap over the tubes near the stern had sheared one of the welded on anchor points off the trailer. The bow of the RIB was attached by the winch cable plus a rope from the winch post around the handles on the hard bow. The whole winch post was still hanging off the bow of the RIB because all 3 ‘U’ Bolts holding it down to the main spine had sheared cleanly off.
The RIB had some VERY minor scratches on the hull, and the 45HP Suzuki was completely undamaged.
My father being in his 60’s was taken off to hospital for a check over whilst we stayed and watched the recovery crane lift the boat off the car and recover the whole rig.
The Sierra being only 4 months old at the time was re-shelled instead of being written off.



I’m in no way saying what I do is the best way, it’s just my solution based on what I’ve seen and experienced in the past.

I currently use a really heavy duty ratchet strap over the tubes, I will never use rope again to hold the boat on the trailer. On longer journeys I use strips of old carpet between the strap and tubes for protection.
The strap goes between the 'A' frame and glued on mooring cleats, which would stop forwards or backwards movement if required.

The strap is wrapped around the trailers main chassis rails on either side, as I won’t trust welded or bolted on attachment points.
At the ratchet end the hook is doubled back and hooked on to the mechanism.
At the ‘free’ end, I have a short length of strap about 1’ long, rated at 5tns, with a welded eye in either end that is normally used for vehicle recovery. This is wrapped around the trailers main chassis tube and the ratchet strap hook passed through the two ends of the short strap.

At the bow I use a winch strap rather than a wire, and again I use a piece of 5tn strap meant for vehicle recovery as a backup.
This has a triangular welded ring in one end and a sewn in loop at the other.
I wrap the strap around the main chassis rail just in front of the winch post and pass the eye through the loop trapping the chassis rail tightly. The fee end is then passed up through the winch post and Shackled to the Bow eye on the RIB, preventing the boat moving forward or back more than a short distance if the winch strap parts, and will limit movement even if the winch post breaks loose.

Nasher.
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