Snipe Trailer - Getting the hub/drum off

Andy · 14 March 2004, 07:53

I have a 1yr old Snipe trailer. I am trying to take the hub/drum off to service the brakes cause they are binding. I have taken the wheel off and now I think I have to remove a large nut on the stub axle. On previous trailers there are been a castle nut and a split pin and both came off easily. With this Snipe there is neither, just one large nut. That nut won't budge!!

Has anyone else got a Snipe trailer and been in this situation. Am I correct in thinking that nut should come off before anything else will, and how did you get it off.

Any info would be appreciated ....

Cork Rib · 14 March 2004, 09:11

Quote:

Originally posted by Andy
now I think I have to remove a large nut on the stub axle. On previous trailers there are been a castle nut and a split pin and both came off easily. With this Snipe there is neither, just one large nut. That nut won't budge!!

Has anyone else got a Snipe trailer and been in this situation. Am I correct in thinking that nut should come off before anything else will, and how did you get it off.

Any info would be appreciated ....

The nut has to come off !! a 23 mill socket and extension bar possibly with a piece of scaffolding bar...........and swing. The resulting "crack" and blooded knuckles will confirm that the nut is indeed loose

Andy · 15 March 2004, 17:53

Ok, got myself a long bar and will try that.

I spoke to snipe, they said the same thing, use a bar. They also said that oil should be used to lube brake cables and not greese, which was news to me, they should know.

gavin · 15 March 2004, 18:03

Removal of this nut can be a difficult one, you will be amazed at the leverage a bar will give, also make sure there is no tension on the drum cable, as this will impeed drum removal, let all the slack of the cable before you tap off the drum itself, use copper grease inside the drum on the moving parts cheers gavin

Andy · 18 March 2004, 09:51

Ok, its done ... a long bar about 5ft ... was just the business. Easy when you have the right tools.

However the drums are now refusing to come off!!! They rotate ok. I may need a very big puller.

Suzuki416 · 18 March 2004, 10:52

Put the wheel back & tighten up the studs.

Then using a mallet (or big hammer) hit the tyre on the axle side.

You can protect the tyre by putting a piece of wood across the back of the wheel & hitting that instead.

Never failed yet!

Pete

Scary Des · 18 March 2004, 10:55

Andy
There is usually a lip formed on the inside of the drum were the shoe doesn’t touch. Make sure the adjuster is backed off and that there is no tension on the brake cables and then knock the drum off with a soft faced hammer, turning the drum while you are hitting it can help. Word of caution, if you hit it too hard the drum will brake, they are quite brittle. Des

Jeff · 18 March 2004, 21:27

I had the same problem and had to make a puller - solid bar with centalised tapped hole for m12+ machine screw. Holes each end on stud pcd.
Remove nut ( as you have found out by use of scaffold tube extension !) Attach to drum via two outer holes into wheel studs and then tighten centre bolt down onto stub axle.
I didn't find a traditional puller would work when trying to clamp behind the drum.
Rather than the presence of any rust ring preventing release I found it was the inner bearing that seized onto the stub axle. Removal leaves inner carrier on stub.
Have fun

Andy · 18 March 2004, 21:43

Good idea. We just spent 1.5 hrs getting one drum off!!! Did it by levering, then attaching metal brackets to the hub using the bolts as you said. Then using a conventional puller on the bolted on brackets. One more to go then i have to sort the brakes out which is yet another challenge. I did read in RIB International that you can now buy submersible, retro fittable disk brakes for trailer!!!! About time.

.... all this so I can go see HMS Scylla sink in Plymouth next weekend. If anybody wants to join me shout and I will pass on our plans.