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Old 23 September 2014, 13:22   #11
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Very nice !. are you going to get it galvanized ?

I made a transom saver for my sib of a similar type to Peter_c (but made of salvaged materials) and just use a small ratchet strap round the leg and back of the trailer to keep it all snugged up, works well .
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Old 23 September 2014, 13:28   #12
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I like your 'transom saver' and I'm messing about with a home made mk1 version. Do you get much side to side movement with it? I was thinking of an A-frame arrangement to try and reduce movement in the leg.
I would always recommend a transom saver especially with a SIB. Mine does flop side to side, and although I don't really think it will damage anything, it is annoying to watch in the rear view mirror. If I ever built one it would extend up the lower leg, as you have already done to keep it from flopping about.

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Also would you recommend a short sloping bunk section to help recover the boat onto the main bunks?
YES! I cut mine at angles, then sanded them to a nice round over, only because my trailer came with them. If I ever have to build new ones, I will build a stainless bracket to hold a section of 2x6" bunk at around a 25* down angle...or so. It would probably be one of those eyeball builds, which I think you know something about. The bracket could just be 3/16" with a couple strips welded to the bottom for added strength over the bend.

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I'm trying to work out angles of straps/transom saver at the back end and it's getting crowded.
You don't have to tell me about a busy transom! The angle of the tie down straps is not nearly as important as actually putting them on.

What the heck are those uprights at the back for? Seriously overkill, "if" they are just to keep the boat from going backwards.

One thing I would also highly recommend is side bunks or a roller to help guide the boat one in rougher/windy conditions. I prefer to drive the boat on the trailer, IF the trailer gets dunked. I quite dipping the trailer in salt water though after building transom wheels brackets and legs.
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Old 23 September 2014, 13:55   #13
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Very nice !. are you going to get it galvanized ?

Thanks, yep it'll be off to the galvanisers (to add more weight).
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Old 23 September 2014, 14:21   #14
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What the heck are those uprights at the back for? Seriously overkill, "if" they are just to keep the boat from going backwards.
I want to take as much movement as possible out of the transom when I'm towing with the engine on the boat. I'm planning on strapping diagonally backwards from the D-rings on the transom down to the trailer so the transom is pulled tight against the uprights. I won't be so concerned about tube pressure when I'm going down the road.



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One thing I would also highly recommend is side bunks or a roller to help guide the boat one in rougher/windy conditions. I prefer to drive the boat on the trailer, IF the trailer gets dunked. I quite dipping the trailer in salt water though after building transom wheels brackets and legs.
They're in the pipeline. I'd prefer not to fit transom wheels so the trailer will get dunked although I've got an idea for preserving my wheel bearings.

One thing I did realise after I made the Neptune's trident affair at the front was that it would be a nuisance to mount a winch if I decide I want one.


Thanks for the advice
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Old 23 September 2014, 14:27   #15
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i built this a few years ago, supported the leg perfectly when strapped down and had the sloping bunks as mentioned
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Old 23 September 2014, 15:16   #16
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Crikey that skeg's seen some action.

Cheers FH, those sloping bunks look like the way ahead.
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Old 23 September 2014, 15:23   #17
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yeah i never did get round to repairing that one, too many rocks around anglesey!
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Old 23 September 2014, 18:07   #18
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I have never seen a boat with anything more than a couple of strap tie downs at the stern. You do need to support right under the transom with the bunks. Without those two poles in the back you already won't have any movement as your motor support stand looks solid

Another thought, since you are dipping it would be to completely seal the trailer up, so that there are no holes in it. That way salt can't get to the inside. I might be inclined to temporarily rig something up to pressure test it. Then cut off the fitting, weld it closed and grind it flat.

A winch is a must have...period. Mine got used pretty much every time I dunked the trailer, and even more so when I don't and drag it on.
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Old 24 September 2014, 02:40   #19
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If the box section frame is welded closed , then galvanizing will most likely distort the chassis.
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Old 24 September 2014, 03:28   #20
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Galvanising company won't dip closed tubes as they are likely to burst when dipped
Best idea is leave tubes as open as possible to ensure complete coating with zinc.drill high & low drain holes to avoid pooling or air entrapment during dipping
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