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Old 03 November 2011, 14:41   #11
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The studs should be fitted to (through, from the inside out) the drum. I'd be surprised if you had a hub, fitted with studs, and then a drum fitted separately, for the shoes to act against.

If you've got 5 x 165mm PCD, on an Alko drum, then I'm assuming you've got 230mm drums? (ergo 230 x 60mm brakes etc)

And just to clarify, they're wheel studs rather than wheel bolts? Wheel studs stick out from the drum and are permanently fixed, whereas wheel bolts wind in to the drilled and tapped drum. Granny, eggs, I know, but just wanted to make sure we're talking about the same thing! I only ask, as I don't think I've ever seen an Alko drum with studs and nuts, they've always been wheel bolts!

Alko Drum, drilled for wheel bolts:




Peak drum, with wheel studs fitted:



Ben
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Old 03 November 2011, 14:44   #12
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Oh, and reference the stuck drum - I have a hub puller that weighs over 70lbs on it's own, and yes, I have to use it on some drums that just don't want to come off, so I wouldn't be surprised if they were well and truly on there . Sorry!
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Old 03 November 2011, 16:05   #13
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Originally Posted by BogMonster
Got a reply from Karl (super efficient) saying they have never been asked for these before and it took ages to ........

Thanks Ben
No worries.
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Old 03 November 2011, 16:21   #14
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Originally Posted by Trailer Guy View Post
The studs should be fitted to (through, from the inside out) the drum. I'd be surprised if you had a hub, fitted with studs, and then a drum fitted separately, for the shoes to act against.

If you've got 5 x 165mm PCD, on an Alko drum, then I'm assuming you've got 230mm drums? (ergo 230 x 60mm brakes etc)

And just to clarify, they're wheel studs rather than wheel bolts? Wheel studs stick out from the drum and are permanently fixed, whereas wheel bolts wind in to the drilled and tapped drum. Granny, eggs, I know, but just wanted to make sure we're talking about the same thing! I only ask, as I don't think I've ever seen an Alko drum with studs and nuts, they've always been wheel bolts!

Alko Drum, drilled for wheel bolts:




Peak drum, with wheel studs fitted:



Ben
Yep they are studs - the studs and nuts look identical to Land Rover items so I am kind of hoping they are as I have five reserved at home for when I get back. I'm not in the islands at the moment but I'm pretty certain it's a ribbed drum like the Alko one you pictured.

If I understand what you said correctly, the hub and drum are all one unit? i.e. the wheel bearing is fitted into the centre of the drum and the studs fit in through the back of the drum? This isn't what I was expecting, which explains why I can't get it off....

This is what it looked like when I got home after the last run out - a bit too 'fin close for comfort!

Ah well, it might have loosened everything up so the drum might fall off now...
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Old 04 November 2011, 05:18   #15
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[QUOTE=BogMonster;428346]
If I understand what you said correctly, the hub and drum are all one unit? i.e. the wheel bearing is fitted into the centre of the drum and the studs fit in through the back of the drum? This isn't what I was expecting, which explains why I can't get it off....
QUOTE]

Apologies for the tardiness of the reply, Thursday night is water polo night

Yes, sir, you are absolutely correct. This morning I took a picture of the back / inside of a Peak drum for you, so you can see how the studs are fixed and what the centre boss looks like (that houses the bearings). The studs are just drifted in, so to remove them, just thump 'em from the outside, in to the drum. In the bottom left you'll see one of those gratis studs, should you require

All the best.

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Old 04 November 2011, 06:19   #16
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Thanks, that is what I thought, a picture is worth a thousand words

I have a couple more questions...

- On these sealed bearings, does the seal at the back of the drum go onto the stub axle or is the bearing completely self sealing, in other words if you take the stake nut off the outer end of the stub axle and pull the drum off, are you disturbing the waterproof sealing or not? On a conventional taper roller bearing on something like a LR, I'd always change the hub seal when I took it off unless it was almost brand new.

- In the SBS trailer service manual (which is based on the std axle) it says that you shouldn't press the bearings out of the drum as you will damage the drum. I guess you can change them but they just need to be drifted out? The SBS parts manual only lists a complete hub/brake drum, not just the bearing, however I ordered (via Osprey) and received a spare pair of wheel bearings when I got the boat so they must be replaceable?

I guess the easiest thing is probably to get a whole spare hub for a quick service fix so when I figure out what I need, I think I'll just order a pair if the cost is reasonable.
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Old 04 November 2011, 06:51   #17
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You won't find a seal, as pictured above, on your hub. You'll find a large circlip (poss two). The bearings are an independently sealed unit - much like a modern car bearing. There's no taper roller bearings, as per a LR. When you press the bearing out (which you can obviously do, ignore the statement that you can't) they'll come out in a complete cylinder. As it happens, there's one sat next to me. This is what it'll look like:

To get them out (once you've got the hub off), remove the circlip(s) and press from the front of the hub out towards the rear of the hub.


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Old 04 November 2011, 16:43   #18
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Ta - that is the same as the ones Roy sent me which I have somewhere at home, but what's the big seal in the back of the drum in post #15 - that looks more like a conventional hub seal of the sort you'd expect on a taper roller bearing hub?
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Old 04 November 2011, 16:57   #19
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Ta - that is the same as the ones Roy sent me which I have somewhere at home, but what's the big seal in the back of the drum in post #15 - that looks more like a conventional hub seal of the sort you'd expect on a taper roller bearing hub?
That's cos it is! You're bang on. It's a Peak hub, with standard taper roller bearings (hence the rear seal), I just posted it up so you could see how the studs would be fitted in your drum.

Your drum will have no rear seal, just a circlip (possibly two) and a sealed bearing, as pictured above.
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Old 04 November 2011, 17:36   #20
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That's cos it is! You're bang on. It's a Peak hub, with standard taper roller bearings (hence the rear seal), I just posted it up so you could see how the studs would be fitted in your drum.

Your drum will have no rear seal, just a circlip (possibly two) and a sealed bearing, as pictured above.
Ah - all clear now, ta

I prefer taper rollers, probably due to being old fashioned. Can't see those silly sealed bearings being very well sealed, though I must admit in the 20 or 30 launches I have done since getting the boat, I've not had a problem with the bearings, just the bloody wheel falling off
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