Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 28 April 2015, 07:54   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Portishead/Falmouth
Make: Ribeye
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 161
Salt Waterproofing Brakes/Axles

First post on here for a while

Our boat has normally been trailered down to Cornwall for the season by now but not this year... it's still sitting on my driveway because things had degenerated further than I thought and the broken brake cable I was expecting to fix has turned into needing a whole new axle!

The trailer has an Al-ko axle and is about 8 years old. It's only done about 4,000 miles and gets dipped in salt water 4 or so times per year and gets fully flushed with fresh water every time (it's fitted with a flushing system)

The dreaded sealed bearings have never caused us any grief and in fact they still seem ok even now... it's just that everything else has crumbled!

I'm about to order a replacement axle (identical to the original so easy to fit) but I have discovered that, like the original, the suspension and brake parts are not galvanised. I am now looking at what options I have to try to make these parts last as long as possible. Obviously as the axle is permanently assembled with rubber suspension internals hot dipping is out of the question. I was thinking maybe strip the paint off the swing arms, brake backing plates and drums and painting with galvafroid or similar?

Anyone have any suggestions?

Here's what the old axle looks like... the galvanised bits are like new and the non-galvanised bits look like they are made of Cadbury's flake!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2748.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	232.8 KB
ID:	104833   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2751.jpg
Views:	188
Size:	208.2 KB
ID:	104834   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2747.jpg
Views:	176
Size:	215.2 KB
ID:	104835  
__________________

__________________
alexm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 09:48   #2
Member
 
Razorbill RIBs's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,357
RIBase
The only really workable solution we've found is to cover everything (not brakes obv) liberally (and fairly regularly tbh) with corrosion block....can be sprayed and brushed.... Not aesthetically pleasing, but works.......

Corrosion Block - marine anti-corrosion compound for your boat
__________________

__________________
Dan Worth
www.razorbillribs.co.uk

Follow us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php...17306504953480
Razorbill RIBs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 13:39   #3
RIBnet supporter
 
Pikey Dave's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,596
RIBase
I've always Waxoyled my trailers from new. Not pretty but works, current trailer ( with AlKo axles) still solid.


.....sh1t happens.......
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: See rule#5
Pikey Dave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 13:45   #4
Member
 
Bern Hanreck's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Norfolk/Suffolk Borders
Boat name: La Bamba
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: F100 Yam / 5Hp Suz
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 707
I was advised to use stainless cables on re-assembly and I think that was a damn good suggestion in hindsight.
__________________
Bern Hanreck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 14:03   #5
Member
 
Johnscubanut's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Beds/South coast
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yam 115
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 294
I guess I'm living on borrowed time with ours? For now though, fresh water & more fresh water after immersion!!!
__________________
Johnscubanut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 17:07   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 708
Galvafroid works, just be sure to thoroughly degrease before applying.
Waxoil works too. The clear variety might look a bit better than the black stuff.
Never tried either inside the brakes, I usually fresh water flush then take the drums off & spray down with wd40 to de-water followed by a wipe with kitchen roll. Well practiced & I can do all 4 easily in around 1/2 an hour.
__________________
paintman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 17:58   #7
Member
 
kerlstone's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ayrshire
Boat name: Deepsea
Make: Bwm 18
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 100hp, +4hp
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 120
I feel your pain, iv'e just this very afternoon finished rebuilding my trailer, new suspension units, brakes, all new u bolts, roller bushes etc, and all stripped and painted, my brakes were just like yours, gubbed,
i think boat trailers are a monumental pain in the arse, i suppose though we cant expect anything else since we dunk them constantly in the sea then drive all over the country with them.
I just wonder how long these brakes will keep working as good as they were today.

Rant over,

Gerry.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0913.jpg
Views:	165
Size:	175.6 KB
ID:	104863   Click image for larger version

Name:	20150422_164312.jpg
Views:	174
Size:	230.5 KB
ID:	104864   Click image for larger version

Name:	20150416_145717.jpg
Views:	163
Size:	302.0 KB
ID:	104865   Click image for larger version

Name:	20150422_164328.jpg
Views:	163
Size:	292.3 KB
ID:	104866   Click image for larger version

Name:	20150428_135134.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	231.7 KB
ID:	104867  

__________________
kerlstone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2015, 18:27   #8
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Ocean & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bern Hanreck View Post
I was advised to use stainless cables on re-assembly and I think that was a damn good suggestion in hindsight.
Stainless cables survive very well, not had to replace one since swapping over to them years ago.
However I do also ensure that the middles are supported higher than the ends so any water that gets in naturally runs out again rather than pools inside.
I do this with simple lengths of cord tied across the trailer.

Nasher.
__________________
RIBBED For extra pleasure.
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
Member of the Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 April 2015, 08:39   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Portishead/Falmouth
Make: Ribeye
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 161
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. We'd like to be able to regularly get inside the drums to wash everything out properly but the trouble with Alko hubs is that you are meant to replace the nut every time you remove it.

That and the fact that they have to be torqued to 200 ftlbs makes it a bit inconvenient to do after every launch!

Good point on the stainless cables. The cables which come from each drum lead to a bracket and T-bar on the axle. These brake cables come with the axle... I'm not sure if they are stainless but ours seem to have weathered ok. There is then a single galvanised wire rope leading from the T-bar to the hitch/handbrake. This wire rope would be a good candidate for replacement with stainless as it's very rusty too.

I also want to replace all the cotter pins which hold on the rollers with stainless pins. I replaced every single one two years ago and they are already fairly rusty!
__________________
alexm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 May 2015, 08:25   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,610
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
However I do also ensure that the middles are supported higher than the ends so any water that gets in naturally runs out again rather than pools inside.
I do this with simple lengths of cord tied across the trailer.

Nasher.
+1. (I used 10mm shock cord to allow them to move a bit.)


I also have an Al-Ko axle - mine is 6YO, & goes swimming every time I go out. All I've had to replace so far is the brake springs - they worked (and a subseuent Pull test in my vice o nthe workbench showed they were fine, with a bit of surface rust) but I chenged them as a precaution.......

If I can't hose down at the slip (and it's not p-ing down with rain as is frequently the way in this corner of the world!) I will give the axle etc a good wash when I get home.


Do you flush then drive? - then the heat of the brakes whe nyou stop will dry the inside of the drums etc out. Flushing & parking means you still have a lot of dampness in there......
__________________

__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:34.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.