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Old 12 August 2011, 10:21   #21
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Dunure
Boat name: Spike
Make: Zodiac 550
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 80fs
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 19
I use 2 seperate straps, and have no probs, roads may be smoother though !

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Old 12 August 2011, 10:22   #22
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Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
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I'm not so sure we should be ratcheting the straps so tight. The as the trailer bounces up and down and flexes, you want the boat sitting on the trailer as naturally as possible, otherwise wouldn't you not be stressing parts of the hull?

FYI I use one strap across the rear via two U bolts on the transom. Both fis forward of the transom on the trailer side beams. I also use one strap on the bow eye which terminates on the winch post rear of the eye (Both straps are pulling down and against each other).


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Old 12 August 2011, 10:27   #23
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Central Belt of Scotland
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Make: Bombard
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Originally Posted by two stroke mick View Post
Photos of how I ratchet the boat to the trailer
exactly my set up and i towed boat from fife to corpach - then back from inverness to problem with it slacking...

As said 5 tonne straps.

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Old 12 August 2011, 13:07   #24
Country: UK - England
Town: Buckingham
Make: Ribcraft 4.8
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 75
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 352
I would be happier if your front ratchet was secured in front of the winch post so that it is pulling the boat forward as well as down - the rear ratchets are applying lots of force in pulling the boat forward.

In your second photo you can see the top of the roller is flattened, so there is some give there which might induce slack straps.

However, I think that the near horizontal angle of your rear strap will allow the boat to lift at the rear on bumpy roads (i.e. you somehow need a more vertical pull down on the stern to trailer connection).
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Old 12 August 2011, 14:25   #25
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Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Boat name: Sweet Chilli
Make: Ribcraft 585/Wetline
Length: 6m +
Engine: Honda 90HP Yam 4HP
MMSI: 235084532
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I have a rollercoaster trailer too and have the same problem with the rear ratchet straps. The problem is that the trailer frame doesn't protrude out below the transom. The hull does bounce on the rollers when it goes over a bump as the straps are not vertical. I'm not really sure what the answer is. Roller coaster are brilliant trailer but this problem is a trade off.

However, I think that the near horizontal angle of your rear strap will allow the boat to lift at the rear on bumpy roads (i.e. you somehow need a more vertical pull down on the stern to trailer connection).[/QUOTE]
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Old 13 August 2011, 16:23   #26
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Country: France
Town: Huisnes sur Mer
Boat name: Raufoss
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury 50
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 789
Hi Mick

I would be willing to bet that using two independent ratchet straps at the rear will solve your problem.... I never use only one strap as passing it through the eyes or over the outboard saddle causes friction which 'fools' you into thinking that the full tension is being applied all the way round to the hook at the end. In reality as you apply tension, some of it is lost through friction at the aforementioned points.
As soon as the boar starts jumping around, even only a small amount, the strap will work loose as the friction is slowly released at the 'sticking points'...
The most efficient way to use a ratchet strap is to have as near as possible to a straight pull from both attachment points.

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Old 15 August 2011, 09:07   #27
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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I use two straps at the rear of the boat. I have adjusted the rear rollers back. This will have the effect of increasing the vertical pull on the straps. I suspect that the anchor point for the strap was too far forward thus giving to much horizontal pull and not enough vertical pull.

God bless ribnet and all that use it

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