New trailer set up!

[CJL]

Evening all.

Today I made a rather epic trip up a "chockablock" M40 today to SBS trailers to pick up our new 1300kg Easy Roller trailer.

Its all shiny and I got a nice surprise when they handed over the hitchlock free of charge!!

Despite my earlier thoughts we've gone for the sealed bearings so we will be fingers crossed for the next 4-5years! Big thanks must go to Mike at Plymouth Powerboat School / South Coast Trailers for sorting it all out so quickly and at a decent price!

My next question.....

The boat will mount (childish)the trailer tomorrow for the first time and I'm wondering if anybody has some top tips for setting up a trailer for the first time?

I will be having a bit of a measure of the roller locations on the old Rapide trailer but I am wondering if a total fresh start is a good idea?

As ever your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Chris

[SW RIB Charter]

Chris,

I am always pleased to help.

I would put the winch post as far forward as you can, then winch the boat on until the transom is level with the back of the rollers, then move the post back into place.

The actual rollers should be alright where they are, but you can always make minor adjustments next time the boat is launched if required.

Any questions, feel free to give me a call.

Michael

[Downhilldai]

You won't want the spray rails sitting on the rollers, so configure it so the hinge pin on the roller axles is under the spray rail. Easily done by measuring the distance between opposite spray rails and setting up the roller bunks so the disance steween the roller axles is the same.

Make sure the bow rides onto the back roller bunk without fouling the cross beam by gently winching the trailer under the boat and checking for clearance. You may need to raise the roller bunks away from the cross beam to achieve this.

When winching the boat forward, as mentioned by SW RIB Charter, check that the winch post isn't too far forward or when the transom passes the swing beam, the beam will swing upwards and could hit the hull.

Just do things slowly and keep an eye out for any fouling.

[willk]

Cable tie a bit of old carpet in the center of the back two cross beams...

[CJL]

Well it went ok but there is a bit too much nose weight for my liking and the back beam needs to support the transom a bit more.

I will fiddle a bit more and see how it goes.

Chris

[matt h]

Rib needs to moved forward 8 inches. The transom needs to sit nearer the the rear rollers for weight support..You say that there is to much weight on the draw bar? This wont help so your going to have the shift the axle a few inches to the rear. I can see that the keel roller isnt touching. Shift the boat forward and it should support. Sbs are great trailors and are fully adjustable in every way!!
Also shorten the trailer board arms. Prone to damage stuck out that far........

[willk]

Originally Posted by CJL

and the back beam needs to support the transom a bit more.

If you need to move it right back, consider changing the extension tighteners to knobs rather than handles. It will give you another inch. And the handles are a PITA anyway.

[Trailer Guy]

before you shift the axle etc., move the rear swing beam back. I'd move it so the hangers are just in front of the lightbar knobs / handles. This'll give you the extra length you need and support the transom as it should. How much nose weight is too much nose weight? Make sure it's not too light.

[CJL]

Originally Posted by Trailer Guy

How much nose weight is too much nose weight? Make sure it's not too light.

Too much = can't lift it at all!!! Moving the axle is becoming the only option I suspect!!

Moving the rollers wont affect the nose weight but I know I need to support the transom to prevent a "hook" developing.

Chris

[Courageous]

If there's too much weight on the drawbar for God's sake don't move the axle to the rear!