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Old 20 June 2015, 20:57   #1
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Making launching simpler - submersible trailer lights?

I think I would use the boat more if the launching was less of a faff. To that end I am thinking that permanently fitted submersible led lights would be one less thing to mess around with.

However I often recover using a rope so I am concerned about water getting into the cable plug? What are people's experiences? Can this reallybecome fit and forget?
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Old 20 June 2015, 21:02   #2
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I used led autolamps on my trailer. Been on 3 years now with no problems.

Just attach the cable to the bottom of the winch post instead of the front of the trailer. That way you have enough cable to attach the plug up beside the winch out of the water.

I use a 13pin plug on mine which is plugged into either the vehicle or a dummy socket on the trailer to keep it out of harms way.
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Old 20 June 2015, 21:09   #3
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I shall be having a go when I get round to it
Light boards are a pain
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Old 20 June 2015, 21:11   #4
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Remind me, what is a trailer board?
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Old 21 June 2015, 06:21   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcd22 View Post
I used led autolamps on my trailer. Been on 3 years now with no problems.

Just attach the cable to the bottom of the winch post instead of the front of the trailer. That way you have enough cable to attach the plug up beside the winch out of the water.

I use a 13pin plug on mine which is plugged into either the vehicle or a dummy socket on the trailer to keep it out of harms way.
1 for LED Autolights
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Old 21 June 2015, 07:05   #6
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Been using led lights on my trailer for years and have yet to have any fail.
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Old 21 June 2015, 07:42   #7
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Old 21 June 2015, 07:44   #8
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I have them fitted on my new trailer but still take it off as I think it gets in the way of L and R on our very shallow slip. Only takes a minute to do. Rather be safe than have to buy new board. It's not a big thing in the whole scheme of things. Just my opinion and preference.


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Old 21 June 2015, 09:05   #9
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So virtually no-one answered on the front end. My thoughts are either you need to have a dummy mount for the plug (caravans often have them or a real socket) placed high enough that it will never dunk. Sounds great - but will it still get splashed and then get salt water in probably the worst ever invented connector! Or terminate the cable with a proper waterproof fitting on the trailer and then a short trailer to car link. That means another set of connectors...

BUT -

Would it not be better to find a better way to quick attach and release the existing board? Think dinghy sailors find it easier than ribbers becuase they just clip onto the rudder pintle/gudgeon? You need something that clips as easy as that and then some little clips to hold the wire in the right place...

But more importantly I thought the wiley girl from the East was the reason you don't get out as much as you'd like... ...that and the need to have the place swept for mines before you go out incase the mod assasination attempts have resumed ;-)
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Old 21 June 2015, 09:35   #10
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One of the reasons I changed to 13pin electrics is the fact that it will lock in and provide a splash proof connection.

I stopped using trailer boards because it was a nightmare to find somewhere to store the board when i was away for the day.

An added benefit is when i am recovering in the dark I can see the trailer and marker lights which help for positioning when driving the boat on.
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Old 21 June 2015, 19:02   #11
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I use an LED trailer board.......works well but the indicator warning buzzer doesn't work. I guess it's not drawing enough current. Would plod be arsy about that if the lights are actually working ??
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Old 21 June 2015, 20:15   #12
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Remind me, what is a trailer board?
I have no idea
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Old 21 June 2015, 21:53   #13
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So virtually no-one answered on the front end. My thoughts are either you need to have a dummy mount for the plug (caravans often have them or a real socket) placed high enough that it will never dunk.
mcd answered - and I only need one good answer! I am open to other suggestions though...

Quote:
Would it not be better to find a better way to quick attach and release the existing board?
As Jambo says the trailer board is not the worst part of towing, and its quite possible to rig it so its quick to attach, then you have to route the cable, then because its cheap with bulbs in it you get the fun of fixing it every so often too - the major benefit of LEDs.

Quote:
...I thought the wiley girl from the East was the reason you don't get out as much as you'd like...
She particularly finds trailer faff frustrating, and launch and recovery quite stressful. The boat mostly sits rigged for long distance tows to interesting places which stops me using it on the slipway 30 yds from the shed it lives in!

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Only takes a minute to do. Rather be safe than have to buy new board. It's not a big thing in the whole scheme of things.
you are right, but I'm looking to get the whole shebang a bit slicker. If I can avoid the "electrics" that would be 2 minutes saved at launch and recovery. But one of the PITA of the trailer board is it gets manky and doesn't fit neatly anywhere in the car. I'm planning some other trailer mods anyway so this would only be one other thing to include.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcd22 View Post
I use a 13pin plug on mine which is plugged into either the vehicle or a dummy socket on the trailer to keep it out of harms way.
mmm... I'll need to look into that but it would mean switching the car socket and the bike rack socket too.
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Old 21 June 2015, 22:40   #14
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You can get a 13pin to 7 pin adaptor plug to fit the back of your car to save changing the sockets over. I use them on my work Landies to swap the chipper frames around between vehicles.
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Old 22 June 2015, 01:31   #15
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Using boards only delays launching more if others are also launching, better off permanently mounting so you can drive on and off as my 14 year old daughter is doing in these pics. Driving on and off makes life much easier at some of the more exposed ramps where my daughter can just drive out and wait facing into the swell as I park the 4x4.

This is how far in I need to drive the trailer to enable driving on and off. The front trailer wiring plug just plugs into the waterproof connecter next to the tow ball which never get anywhere near the water.

Theres also a release clip available so I dont even need to get out of the car if I didn't want to.

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Old 23 June 2015, 11:23   #16
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I used to have the trailer board attached to the A-frame on the old trailer as the pull out arms had long since vanished. The cable was routed over the boat so I just unplugged, launched and that was it. I know it isn't legal but I never got stopped.

As for plugs, the 7 pin design is terrible and unreliable. I've upgraded all of our trailers and cars to 13 pin which all include o-ring seals on the plugs and caps. Much more reliable and easier to plug in. I think the ones we have are probably IP 66 or 67 when the caps are on so would take a dunking.

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Old 23 June 2015, 22:19   #17
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I used to have the trailer board attached to the A-frame on the old trailer as the pull out arms had long since vanished. The cable was routed over the boat so I just unplugged, launched and that was it. I know it isn't legal but I never got stopped.

As for plugs, the 7 pin design is terrible and unreliable. I've upgraded all of our trailers and cars to 13 pin which all include o-ring seals on the plugs and caps. Much more reliable and easier to plug in. I think the ones we have are probably IP 66 or 67 when the caps are on so would take a dunking.

Phil M
Ive owned boats since I was 12, now 50 and never had an issue with a 7 pin type, they are fitted to every trailer Ive ever seen over here. They are the only fitting Ive ever seen, not just boat trailers.

How are they unreliable ?

Jon
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Old 23 June 2015, 23:15   #18
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How are they unreliable ?

Jon
We run them on roads with salt spray to stop skidding in ice/snow. The brass connectors fur up and then stop sending power through. Plus in my experience the wires connecting to the screw terminals in the plug seem to rot too - not sure if thats any better on the 13pin.

Very common to get a bad earth and get brake lights flashing instead of indicators etc. Don't know if 13 pin is any more reliable. 13pin just carries the extra wiring for a caravan etc but it sounds like the socket / plug may be better engineered to keep water out
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Old 24 June 2015, 11:22   #19
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How are they unreliable ?

Jon
Water ingress is the usual problem, as said above, leading to connector corrosion. All the 13 pin ones I've fitted (and its a few different types) are far better sealed with water tight glands on the cables and o-rings or gaskets on the connections and covers. All our 7 pin ones just had strain protection and no seals. The twist lock mechanism on 13 pins is also far more robust than the 7 pin flap thingy. We used to have 7 pin plugs wobble just enough to disconnect (coupled with corroded pins) and stop lights from working mid journey.

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Old 25 June 2015, 06:38   #20
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Thanks guys, sorry if Im coming over a bit thick but I still don't get it. We have round 7 pin or square 7 pin options and both are well sealed, Ive owned 4x4s since I moved out here 20 years ago and these have been the standard. I regularly do river crossing where water reaches my bonnet and also beach and ramp launch my boats, I also live within 40m of the ocean and my cars paintwork resembles something that has been hit with a belt sander from salt spray from the surf. In all of this Ive yet to have water problems from my connection from trailer to car (4x4).

Before led lights were available I did need to replace the lights as they never sealed even though they were sold as waterproof but since I started using leds Ive yet to have any problems on my three trailers and never a problem at the car connection end.

This is the kind of thing we use 13 to 7 Pin Trailer Truck Waterproof Electric Towing Bar Plug Adaptor Socket W44 | eBay

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