Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 20 May 2014, 14:12   #111
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Ocean & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,147
Managed a couple of hours on this project over the weekend.

I want to source a length of 'Curly' 7 core cable to actually go between the winch post and the car, so that's next on the list.

Nasher
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Light Elecs 7.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	178.9 KB
ID:	94829  
__________________

__________________
RIBBED For extra pleasure.
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
Member of the Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 May 2014, 00:02   #112
RIBnet supporter
 
nugent's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Bromsgrove
Boat name: Kick-Ass !
Make: PAC/Artic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 250hp Yamaha
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Managed a couple of hours on this project over the weekend.

I want to source a length of 'Curly' 7 core cable to actually go between the winch post and the car, so that's next on the list.

Nasher
Towsure sell it.
__________________
˜™
MY BIGGEST WORRY IS THAT MY WIFE(WHEN I"M DEAD)WILL SELL MY TOY'S FOR WHAT I SAID I PAID FOR THEM.
nugent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 May 2014, 06:15   #113
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,601
I recently changed the car - and am about to re- fit the tow electrcs, as my instructons ("Do NOT fit a bypass relay") were either ignored or the guy at the garage hasn't a chufin' clue. On the plus side he did listen when I said "NO scotchlocks"......


Bypass relay - does exactly what it says on the tin - bypasses the can bus. It hooks into the lighting wires like back in the day, but instead of the bit you hook in going straight to the socket & confusing the lighting module with extra bulbs & stuff, it goes to feed some incredibly high resistance, low current triggers in a box of electronic gubbinry (which fools the can bus into not noticing it, but detects when voltage is applied to the lamps).
The box of electronic gubbinry then essentially fires an electronic relay which is fed form an independant source to the lights (hence needing the +12V power) and switches the trailer lights by "remote control" form the car's lighting circuits.
Thje black box should also have the annoying buzzer (to tell you the trailer indicators are working) and the "car fog off" functionality built in.


All stricly legal WRT the lights, BUT........

- doesn't tell the ABS you have a trailer on the back
- doesn't tell any stability modules you have a trailer on the back
- minor issue but bl**dy annoyingly won't switch off rear park sensors when you have a trailer on the back....


And that is why you really should get a CAN talking one (if your car supports it) as I certainly don't want to get into a "non linear braking situation" and have a module confused midway through correcting a skid by a 3/4 ton shove from the rear.

I got a Westfalia CAN kit -(google "PF Jones") Entirely plug & play (no cutting or splicing wires). Some cars auto detect the new module, Ford unfortunately don't so once fitted I'll either need to take it to a dealer to activate the module or work out how to get ELMconfig to run reliably on my laptop...... More of that anon as I still need to remove half my boot trim to fit the kit and It keeps raining when I'm free!
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 September 2015, 11:11   #114
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,601
Ok quick update.

Finally got 5 mins to update this after I got the can kit fitted. Thankfully not tested whether it talks to the ABS or not but does switch off the park sensors.

Also with bulb failure it tells me which one has gone in the entire cluster.

Bypass relay? No thanks.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 September 2015, 17:02   #115
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Ocean & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,147
Good to see you've got your sorted

I've used mine quite a bit now and don't know how I ever put up with taking trailer boards on and off to dunk the trailer in the water.

My homemade box does of course turn off the rear parking sensors and adjust the stability control.
The Parking sensor bit is an added bonus with a boat trailer as of course having removed a normal trailer light board the parking sensors go off the second you put the car in reverse to go down the slip.

Nasher
__________________
RIBBED For extra pleasure.
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
Member of the Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 September 2015, 03:55   #116
RIBnet supporter
 
Pikey Dave's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,470
RIBase
When I got my super duper all singing new trailer with the built in LEDs, it came with a fancy module guaranteed to cure all Canbus issues on 99% of current vehicles. Obviously Landrovers make up the other 1% I still ended up soldering some resistors into the indicator circuits Works a treat now.
Fancy Canbus module = thick end of £300
2x 6.2ohm 21w resistors = £3.60 from RS
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: See rule#5
Pikey Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 September 2015, 08:36   #117
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Mercury
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
MMSI: 235074042
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,463
Just read this thread after buying a Led board, asked indispention if these were plug and go no reply just sent the board plugged it in yesterday Christmas tree lights similar to a bad earth problem took it apart see if there was a bad connection no all ok all the connections are soldered but not waterproof so leaving it on the trailer still coupled ,brakes would short out in water.reading this thread seems like it's a lottery if they work on your vehicle.(2010 Mitsubishi shogan )
One question I have if the car electronics struggle with the low current flow through the LEDs would a resistance in the negative /ground wire sort it as all lights return to ground and could that resistance be housed in the plug socket.

Cheers Jeff
__________________
jeffstevens763@g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 September 2015, 09:55   #118
RIBnet supporter
 
Pikey Dave's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,470
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
........
One question I have if the car electronics struggle with the low current flow through the LEDs would a resistance in the negative /ground wire sort it as all lights return to ground and could that resistance be housed in the plug socket.

Cheers Jeff

Nope, the resistance needs to be in parallel with the various bulbs, not in series, putting it in series will make it worse. The Disco needs resistors in // with the indicator leds, dunno about the Shogun.


.....sh1t happens.......
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: See rule#5
Pikey Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 September 2015, 10:19   #119
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Mercury
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
MMSI: 235074042
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
Nope, the resistance needs to be in parallel with the various bulbs, not in series, putting it in series will make it worse. The Disco needs resistors in // with the indicator leds, dunno about the Shogun.


.....sh1t happens.......
So if in parallel and the LED blows no warning on the dash as its bridged by the resistor
__________________
jeffstevens763@g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 September 2015, 10:29   #120
RIBnet supporter
 
Pikey Dave's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,470
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
So if in parallel and the LED blows no warning on the dash as its bridged by the resistor
more or less. LEDs are far more robust & reliable than filament bulbs, so failures should be much less of an issue, that's the point in going "LED" in the first place. Until car manufacturers pull their fingers out & sort out the car side electrickery, we'll still have to resort to frigging & bodging. Ironically, it's the higher end marques that seem to have the biggest issues with LEDs.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: See rule#5
Pikey Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 23:06.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.