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Old 11 October 2013, 10:38   #101
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Originally Posted by F470 View Post
I installed a set of Westbar LED Tail Lights on my trailer.
Luck with those. I've used the Innovative and (some other brand that West Marine currently sells); they've all leaked at some point. The ones WM has now has all the interior electronics potted in some sort of epoxy, so they stand a better chance of working through the flooding.

I still wonder why no company will buck the trend, and actually engineer some lights that are robust, reliable, and actually waterproof. I'd build them myself if we didn't have the DOT requirements in the US.

jky
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Old 11 October 2013, 12:09   #102
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My understanding is that the Wesbar lights are solid. So far I haven't had any problems submerging them.
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Old 14 December 2013, 11:38   #103
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Did a bit more to my trailer lights yesterday afternoon.

Because the D3 has an issue with LED trailer lights Iíve had to build up some electronics to Ďfoolí the Canbus system.
Relays need to be used to isolate the indicators from the car until they are used, otherwise the low voltage test pulse constantly sent to test for a light board being plugged in is enough to illuminate the indicators like having the hazard lights on all the time. Old fashioned incandescent bulbs arenít illuminated by the low power pulse so you donít know itís there.

The flip side of this is that the LEDs donít have enough resistance for the system to Ďseeí them, so load resistors also have to be added before the relays so the car recognises a trailer is attached, illuminates the trailer indicators light on the dash, disables the rear parking sensors and alters the programming of the rear air suspension.

It all still needs to be actually final fitted to the trailer, but that can wait a couple of months now I know it all works OK.
Iíve also now taken the added precaution of Conformal coating the backs of the LED clusters and used extra sealant.

Image 1
The electrics box will be fitted to the upright of the winch post using a large Jubilee clip through a bracket on the back.

Image 2
I decided to play safe and mount the resisters outside the main box on a stainless plate, despite not believing they will get that hot as they are not used all the time. The plate will fit nicely under the upside-down ĎUí section the winch is bolted to where the resistors will be protected and reasonably dry. Again Iíve gone OTT with sealant and Conformal coating despite the resistors being supposedly OK outside.
In this image I have a short lead connected up with a plug for the 7 pin plug just to test the system. When fitted to the trailer this will be a lot longer. The two cables entering the other end of the box will run up either sine of the trailer from the light clusters.

Image 3
With the lid off the box the connections can be seen.

Image 4
Then with the external cables removed

Image 5
The PCB I made using a small piece of Strip board with through hole relays and rectifier diodes soldered on.

Nasher
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Old 14 December 2013, 11:39   #104
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This all connects up to my light clusters from earlier in this thread.
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Old 14 December 2013, 12:09   #105
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Have you made a spare? I fancy doing this as well at some point.
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Old 14 December 2013, 12:37   #106
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Doh .. I should have said I found a 'box' from Stanley Harris that does all this malarky for 30 notes ... just needs to be put in line for your trailer socket and needs its own +12 supply ... I'm told it works for all, but I was waiting to fit it before shouting about it
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Old 14 December 2013, 13:27   #107
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Doh .. I should have said I found a 'box' from Stanley Harris that does all this malarky for 30 notes ... just needs to be put in line for your trailer socket and needs its own +12 supply ... I'm told it works for all, but I was waiting to fit it before shouting about it
Yep, saw those, not sure the Resistors are up to it for the D3, plus I didn't want to add the additional +12V supply, as the only neat/easy way to do it would be to use the supply in the other 7 pin plug that caravans use, or convert to a 13 pin plug.

Besides, apart from my time, which I enjoyed, the parts for mine came to @£10.

Nasher.
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Old 14 December 2013, 13:28   #108
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Have you made a spare? I fancy doing this as well at some point.
Sorry, only made 1 at this stage, and would want to test it for a while before making one for somebody else.

Nasher.
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Old 14 December 2013, 15:15   #109
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not sure the Resistors are up to it for the D3,
Hmm.. have you seen one on a D3 and have inside info .. how do you mean fella ?
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Old 15 December 2013, 03:46   #110
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how do you mean fella ?
Sorry B7, I should clarify.

There appear to be 3 different types of 'box' available.

1. Bypass relays for £10 - £50
These work well for the D3 but need an extra +12V supply as you said, plus they don't appear to have the resistance to tell the D3 when the trailer board is plugged in, so you don't get the trailer indicator warning on the dash or the changes to the rear suspension and parking sensors.
You can fit them to the car of course which makes the extra feed easier.

2. Plug in resistors for again £10 - £50
Again these work, and make the car recognise the trailer, but the canbus test pulse will normally still illuminate the indicators as there is no isolation.
I say normally as they have worked on some D3s, usually later post 07 ones, but not early ones like my 55 plate.

You can combine both of these, but I really believe the additional +12v feed is a bad idea.

3. There is a box available that does both jobs, and as I'm sure you are on Disco3.co.uk you'll know Character uses one commercially with great success.
But this was completely out of by budget at £300.

Besides everything I'm sad enough to enjoy solving these things, building things, and learning something along the way.

Oh, and I'm a tight sod too.

It's just the way I am

Nasher
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