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Old 10 December 2018, 16:18   #1
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LED Lights

When people have made led light boards, how thick is the backing plate they put the lights on?
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Old 10 December 2018, 16:26   #2
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12mm industrial chopping boards for mine, wouldn't do it again though if you are talking submersible lights. Led trailerboard is way to go, too much work and money for submersible to be worthwhile imo. It will cost a lot more time and money than you think it will if you really want properly waterproof lights, be warned!

I have quite a few "IP68" lights in my spares box now.

My shopping list and prices were roughly-

New poles- £50
Galv -£35 split between a few of us as a favour
Light cluster- £70
Licence plate lights - £15
Side markers -£25
Curly cable -£35
7 pin cable x 2x 10m - £25
Waterproof junction box and glands - £15
13 pin plug - £5
Glue heatshrink various - £35
Chopping boards - £16
Liquid wrap- £16
Stainless cables/bolts/washers/eyelets etc £20
Led resistors- £10 (your car may not need these)
DIY Heatsinks for them (yes they will melt the plastic box) £10
Probably forgetting a few things and not counting the lights in shed that were pi$h.

At a semi accurate guess probably 30 hours building them not counting letting things seal/drying.

Will not be making another set if they fail....trailerboard with LED is way I'm going.
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Old 10 December 2018, 16:31   #3
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Quote:
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12mm industrial chopping boards for mine, wouldn't do it again though if you are talking submersible lights. Led trailerboard is way to go, too much work and money for submersible to be worthwhile imo. It will cost a lot more than you think it will and time if you really want properly waterproof lights, be warned!

I have quite a few "IP68" lights in my spares box now.


Too late now Dubrus, Iíve already bought the lights IP68 and the junction box ☹️
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Old 10 December 2018, 16:57   #4
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Too late now Dubrus, Iíve already bought the lights IP68 and the junction box ☹️
I added more info buddy......good luck with your quest, you have MANY hours with a soldering iron and sealer in front of you.

I can recommend hot glue and then liquid tape everything, takes ages but has to de done.

They are good when finished but if one light goes phut you have a problem. I made mine so I can put the old poles and board on in seconds, I know last Tango just done his trailer few weeks back but he can't go back easily.

Maybe he will post up when he sees this with some more info. His setup below, hope he doesn't mind.

If you need anything specific pm me and I'll let you know what worked for me.
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Old 10 December 2018, 17:28   #5
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I added more info buddy......good luck with your quest, you have MANY hours with a soldering iron and sealer in front of you.



I can recommend hot glue and then liquid tape everything, takes ages but has to de done.



They are good when finished but if one light goes phut you have a problem. I made mine so I can put the old poles and board on in seconds, I know last Tango just done his trailer few weeks back but he can't go back easily.



Maybe he will post up when he sees this with some more info. His setup below, hope he doesn't mind.



If you need anything specific pm me and I'll let you know what worked for me.


Cheers for that, my trailer isnít as new as yours and never had side marker lights to start with, just a plain tailboard.
Am I correct in thinking I donít need to retro fit them?
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Old 10 December 2018, 17:48   #6
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The law is different depending on the age of your trailer, I don't know exactly what is required for anything older than mine (2016) so I can't comment accurately, but I THINK if it is before 2012 you don't need side markers (Btw when I say side markers above I actually mean the 8" rubber stalks) or reversing lights. Check on the trailer lighting rules as getting the heights etc maybe take some planning.

If you can weld (I have never tried nor own the kit) you can probably use some thin metal as plates, the chopping boards work well though and hot glue sticks to them very well to seal it all up.

One of my pictures above you can see sikaflex white round the main cluster, it literally peeled off the chopping board so it is hot glue now.

Here is one of my completely abandoned mock ups of corex and duct tape for perhaps more ideas.
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Old 10 December 2018, 18:26   #7
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I had led on my new trailer had to much bother I now have gone back to basic light board. Easy!!
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Old 11 December 2018, 05:36   #8
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just bought this

https://www.towingandtrailers.com/pr...nd-6m-cable-2/
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Old 11 December 2018, 08:04   #9
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Too late now Dubrus, I’ve already bought the lights IP68 and the junction box ☹️
Good just now while it's all working ok...time will tell.

I ended up making my own junction box. Getting all the wires physically into the stock trailer junction box was not going to happen so I made up mine with 5mm studs and soldered eyelets to all the wires. Also 8.2 ohm 50W resistors across the indicator wiring in the junction box and they get hot if the hazards are left on. It's mounted up on the winch post well clear of the water.

The whole job took a long long time and ended up costing about the same as I'd probably have paid for "off the shelf" (had to make number plate lights, both "waterproof" ones I bought weren't.)

How many times did I hear.....have you still not finished that?
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Old 11 December 2018, 08:51   #10
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I have just bought connix wireless led taillights
They are magnetic and just stick onto trailer
Literally takes 2 secs to put on and take off
Fully charged last 10 hrs
No wires to worry about
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