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Old 30 May 2011, 08:11   #11
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Hi all

Interesting points. Tried similar myself many a time. There is also the option of buying a trailer extension.

These come in many types like one with a tow ball to fit into the trailer and hitch the other end to click onto car (but these can be very difficult to reverse with having an extra pivoting point). check out eBay item number 110690429731 for example

The better one is a system which folds out when needed from storage along/inside the drawbar of the trailer. It secures to the winch post bracket and simply extends the length without having to remove from the towing car

Links for some examples

http://captainslog.janktheproofer.co...rextension.htm

http://cheshireart.co.uk/

The cheapest quick fix is the last link and pictures which supplies a cable system (safer than rope) around 65 delivered

Hope that helps

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
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Old 30 May 2011, 10:20   #12
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For launching (if I dont have enough depth) I generally use an approach more like Maritini described than Ian's.

Reverse car down slip with trailer attached. Tie rope to car. Tie other end around the winchpost (I use a clove hitch at both ends - but that may not be best). Put jockey wheel down. Uncouple trailer. Let trailer roll back into water (I have a small trailer and boat) - it rarely "runs" very far because its usually shallow and rocky slips that give me an issue. If it were steep then you would probably want some degree of control. It often needs me to wade in and give it an extra push to get the required depth. Start engine. Uncouple boat. drive boat off then drive car slowly to top of slip and relink trailer to car (or if the trailer is not too far out just pull it back in on the rope and hook it up at the bottom of slip).

The rope is mainly here to stop the trailer running away and going too deep. I prefer this to trying to reverse with a "flexible" rope as Ian described - as you have no steerage on the trailer.

If I were doing this on every launch I'd have a metal bar as per B&O's post.
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Old 30 May 2011, 12:01   #13
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I used the Martini / Polwart method when I had a bunk trailer.

Other thing as a note, I use an inflatable jockey, which makes rope recovery that bit easier as it doesn't tend to dig in & / or find every crevice on the slip as easily.....

The other option might be to rebuild the trailer- move the bunks forward and add a set of swing rollers at the rear?
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Old 30 May 2011, 12:06   #14
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That's a good point worth looking at too

Dropping the height of the trailer support bunks where possible. As long as the boat stays off the mudguards drop it right down. Won't need as much depth to launch. May need to cut off the excess from the bottom of the fixing bracket so it does not catch on any speed humps or slipways etc

Make sure your happy with it's position before trimming though as once it's don't there's no going back

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
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Old 30 May 2011, 14:34   #15
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Thanks for all the replies.

We have safely used a heavy duty rope the past few occassions for both launch and recovery and has made it so so simple to float the boat off and back on.

I also prefer the cable option and will suggest that he maybe upgrade to this due to it being stronger seeing as he always launches from the same slip.

Cheers Chaps.
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Old 30 May 2011, 15:09   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2 RIBS View Post
We used to do the same with a 650 on a bunked trailer.
Reverse trailer to top of slip so there is a little pressure down the slip and then chock both wheels and brake the trailer(if braked). Then with a good strong 14mm rope about 30fet long place a loop at each end then unhitch trailer from tow hhok, put one rope eye onto towhook and then feed the rope through the trailer and back to tow hook and attach other eye.
Now take up the rope slack and then unchock trailer and brake off. and slowly move down the slope (make sure trailer was straight before). Kepp your car engine running to keep brake pressure.
As the trailer enters the water you cn judge how deep it is needed to float off and then climb on , lower engine to suit and start engine, then disconnect boat from trailer winch.

Do this the opposite way to recover, if you recall where the tyres were in the wter for depth then the boat can just be driven on and winched last foot. Car tyres never get wet- you keep grip. Danger areas are not chocking trailer properly. Hope that gives an idea. I still use this method if needed on different launch sites when not on dry stack.
I tried this over the weekend using a rwd Transit and it worked a treat. Thank you
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Old 01 June 2011, 12:11   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2 RIBS View Post
We used to do the same with a 650 on a bunked trailer.
Reverse trailer to top of slip so there is a little pressure down the slip and then chock both wheels and brake the trailer(if braked). Then with a good strong 14mm rope about 30fet long place a loop at each end then unhitch trailer from tow hhok, put one rope eye onto towhook and then feed the rope through the trailer and back to tow hook and attach other eye.
Now take up the rope slack and then unchock trailer and brake off. and slowly move down the slope (make sure trailer was straight before). Kepp your car engine running to keep brake pressure.
As the trailer enters the water you cn judge how deep it is needed to float off and then climb on , lower engine to suit and start engine, then disconnect boat from trailer winch.

Do this the opposite way to recover, if you recall where the tyres were in the wter for depth then the boat can just be driven on and winched last foot. Car tyres never get wet- you keep grip. Danger areas are not chocking trailer properly. Hope that gives an idea. I still use this method if needed on different launch sites when not on dry stack.

I have seen a couple of accidents happen on slipways with Auto Reversing brakes. DO NOT RELY ON YOUR HANDBRAKE TO HOLD YOUR TRAILER IN REVERSE ON A HILL. The brakes will probably hold for a few seconds or longer but the auto reversing brake shoes may let go. If you are lucky you will look like an idiot. If only one side brakes lets loose the trailer could turn and head off the side of the slip. . ouch!
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