Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 09 October 2015, 21:36   #1
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,666
Indespension Rollercoaster Trailer - a review

I've been using an Indespension Super Rollercoaster for two seasons (from new). Overall it's been, well, a bit of a rollercoaster experience - ups and downs!

The Ups:
The trailer frame has been solid. The hitch and braking system have held up well. It has bearing buddies and these have meant the bearings still look perfect and going into a third season. The brake shoes and associated gubbins are similar - a clean up and they should survive another year. The rollers have been good.

The Downs:
The brackets holding the mudguards on have fractured and needed welding and more support. I think they were vibrating and metal fatigue followed.
The lock pins for the swing beams all cracked and broke. Again, I suspect fatigue.
The trailer board was supplied with two bungee retainers. These failed on the third trip and cost me a £140 lighting board! Cable ties now...
The winch strap was a POS. I took it off this year and discovered the retaining pin had bent and the strap had frayed to 50%. Replaced with Dyneema (£££)
The unit has integrated side and forward lighting. None of this was remotely water resistant. The result was a swap out for sealed LED units (8) but unfortunately the water damage extends to the cabling, which appears not to be tinned and is now blackening. A full rewire is on the cards next season. I didn't bother to complain to the company as they'll say the lights aren't supposed to get submerged. Tell that to a wave at the slipway!

Now, a question about the rewire. The supply running back to the side lights runs through each unit in a daisychain. This means a messy connection to waterproof (two wires/four cores into/for each lamp.) Any neat connections available for this job? I suppose I could run a cable to each lamp, but that's not very elegant....
__________________
I'm sorry, but there IS no Mars Bar.
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 October 2015, 21:47   #2
Member
 
mick's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,175
PD is your man for that job but your guna need a few ££ to do it right starting off with a ss junction box
__________________
mick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 October 2015, 21:50   #3
Member
 
mick's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,175
Mine is having these over the winter ditching the light board Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByRIB Net1444427409.576066.jpg
Views:	317
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	109146Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByRIB Net1444427420.196058.jpg
Views:	303
Size:	102.4 KB
ID:	109147
__________________
mick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 October 2015, 22:44   #4
RIBnet supporter
 
MustRib's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
Good thread - thanks for posting.
I have had from new, a Rollercoaster 7 since 2012.
After three years I am quite happy with it. I realise I am tempting fate with this
statement but after once to Devon, twice to Cornwall,
three times to the South Coast, once to West Wales
with a further boat recovery from Dingle (thats almost in the USA!)
it hasn't let me down yet.
Its been serviced once by Indespension (it really felt like YTS trainees )
and now its looked after by a local trailer mechanic.
It has no side or front lighting (just reflectors).
The bungees that hold on the trailer board have lasted fine -
although they are looking a little worn now so will replace.
The Pins/swinging frames etc all look fine with no cracks that I can see.
I have noticed that the coupling damper seems to have a little snatch in it now,
and maybe thats the next thing to replace.
Last year I fitted my own hub flush system, with some small brass adaptors
screwed into the threaded hole on the brake mounting plate and fed by two
lengths of hose, joined by a Y piece up by the winch.
Mudguards and brackes seem fine.
The Centre bolt on the winch reel bent, and started making the winch strap fray,
so that has been replaced.
Am sure its the future - running electrical wiring through the frame, but
a detachable light board seems to be a lot less hassle and problematic
for a trailer that gets dunked in sea water from time to time.

Reading other threads on other forums, I may have one of the
good uns from Indespension.
The trailer replaced a De Graff, and I think the lay up of the Indespension
is better with less flexing in evidence.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
I've been using an Indespension Super Rollercoaster for two seasons (from new). Overall it's been, well, a bit of a rollercoaster experience - ups and downs!

The Ups:
The trailer frame has been solid. The hitch and braking system have held up well. It has bearing buddies and these have meant the bearings still look perfect and going into a third season. The brake shoes and associated gubbins are similar - a clean up and they should survive another year. The rollers have been good.

The Downs:
The brackets holding the mudguards on have fractured and needed welding and more support. I think they were vibrating and metal fatigue followed.
The lock pins for the swing beams all cracked and broke. Again, I suspect fatigue.
The trailer board was supplied with two bungee retainers. These failed on the third trip and cost me a £140 lighting board! Cable ties now...
The winch strap was a POS. I took it off this year and discovered the retaining pin had bent and the strap had frayed to 50%. Replaced with Dyneema (£££)
The unit has integrated side and forward lighting. None of this was remotely water resistant. The result was a swap out for sealed LED units (8) but unfortunately the water damage extends to the cabling, which appears not to be tinned and is now blackening. A full rewire is on the cards next season. I didn't bother to complain to the company as they'll say the lights aren't supposed to get submerged. Tell that to a wave at the slipway!

Now, a question about the rewire. The supply running back to the side lights runs through each unit in a daisychain. This means a messy connection to waterproof (two wires/four cores into/for each lamp.) Any neat connections available for this job? I suppose I could run a cable to each lamp, but that's not very elegant....
__________________
MustRib is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 October 2015, 23:09   #5
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib View Post
but
a detachable light board seems to be a lot less hassle and problematic
for a trailer that gets dunked in sea water from time to time.
In fairness - I didn't say mine was a bad trailer - just implied that monkeys could have done a better wiring fitout
I think there is a legal requirement for new trailers to have some side/forward lighting? Otherwise I wouldn't be @rsed!

Do tell me about the brass adaptors you employed for the home build flush system - I could go a set of those!


PS I didn't see cracks in the retaining pins either - they broke and fell off while I was moving the trailer without the boat on!! Rust on the interior surfaces of a remaining pin confirmed cracking over time
__________________
I'm sorry, but there IS no Mars Bar.
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 04:04   #6
RIBnet supporter
 
MustRib's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
I will take a few pics when I get to the boat next and post them up.
I have a feeling I got the threaded adptors from Becktons....
(I see the pieces in question in the Alko flush hub kit pictures on the net)
I dont think Becktons are trading anymore, so maybe someone
on here has a lead on those adaptors? TrailerGuy maybe?

The Alko backplates on the trailer had a pre-threaded hole already,
so it was a seconds job to screw them in.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	brks447.jpg
Views:	299
Size:	61.6 KB
ID:	109150  
__________________
MustRib is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 04:22   #7
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,666
Interesting. I reckon I have a roll of that hose already (from work ) so I must talk to my amigos about snap fittings. Any lead on the adaptors or their spec would be great.

BTW, I'm loitering here for the Mods Overtime and Unsocial Hours Multiplier Bonus. What's your excuse?
__________________
I'm sorry, but there IS no Mars Bar.
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 06:07   #8
Member
 
spartacus's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,521
RIBase
I'm going to fit LED marker (red/white) lights onto my Rapide trailer over the winter. I did this before to an Indespension trailer using tinned cable. It connects near the hitch to the light board wiring.

I preferred the Indespension trailer (boat sat lower) compared to Rapide. Never had any issues with bearings or swing-beams. The winch strap was an annual replacement, and will be again this year.
__________________
Is that with or without VAT?
spartacus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 08:47   #9
Member
 
Pikey Dave's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,864
RIBase
My first trailer was a Roller Coaster 6e with the double side frame. We were forever getting cracked welds on the upstands from the main side box section to the smaller top rail.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4:Don't feed the troll
Pikey Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 09:31   #10
Member
 
Mcd22's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Paisley
Boat name: Don't know yet...
Make: Arctic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x 150 etecs
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 103
Another big advantage with having fully waterproof lights is that you can use them as guide lights if your recovering the boat at night. Mine have been on the trailer for 3 seasons now and get dunked pretty much every weekend and I have had no issues.

My chassis is a roller coaster 8 which has had custom axles fitted. Trailer is solid though the bolts are starting to rust now.
__________________
Mcd22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 11:17   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
My take on trailers is that they are sacrificial, hateful f'king things. Unless brand new, they're just waiting to bite you on the arse if not constantly pander to to keep the ba**tards happy.

I do enough to make mine safe and reliable, and go to town on them pre-sale. I'm fortunate that my launch slip is 3m from home. The 70m round trip to have the O/B serviced did come with a little added excitement. My F-in-Law found it quite entertaining.

The Parrymore that the VM is on the prob the best that I've owned. I've had a couple of Indies, standard bits dissolve or fall off.

The SR trailer is locally built from cheap parts.

Can't remember the name of the trailer that my 6.5 VM was on, it was complete shite. Spittle binned it off pretty quickly after purchase.
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 14:34   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
For those running leds, where do you put the licence plate now?

I need a way to light up the trailer as I quite often launch and recover in early hours of morning to suit tides. Last time out I couldn't see the trailer at all coming in, need to address it.

Be interested in what people are using?
__________________
Xk59D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 16:57   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,441
RIBase
Why not fit docking arms with lights/reflectors on top to be able to see the trailer, just made some for mine using hand railing stuff from the metal store for £60 galv ,cast bends ,used wall mounts bolted to the trailer frame

Cheers
__________________
jeffstevens763@g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 October 2015, 18:25   #14
Member
 
Mcd22's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Paisley
Boat name: Don't know yet...
Make: Arctic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x 150 etecs
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 103
My number plate is on the back of the mudguard now. I find that the tail and sidelights on the trailer give me guide points to aim for at night.
__________________
Mcd22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 October 2015, 18:17   #15
RIBnet supporter
 
MustRib's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
Interesting. I reckon I have a roll of that hose already (from work ) so I must talk to my amigos about snap fittings. Any lead on the adaptors or their spec would be great.

BTW, I'm loitering here for the Mods Overtime and Unsocial Hours Multiplier Bonus. What's your excuse?
just finishing up work in the USA. Back to the UK today
and hopefully a few more days on the boat.
MOUHMB? Will have to try that next time I'm on a 20 hour day
__________________
MustRib is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 October 2015, 11:22   #16
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,666
Reflective strips

So - I got the LEDs fitted. And the lighting board connections replaced. And the lamps. I had a bit of Reflexite tape laying around - some yellow 20mm stuff and a lot of SOLAS silver/white stiff. I may have got a bit carried away!

I put SOLAS tapes on the mudguards facing forwards - it's actually much more noticeable than the front facing white LEDs. So, I stuck a couple of red reflexite triangle patches on the rear of the mudguards too. And the yellow strips up the sides. I wonder is it all legal?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Trailer small.jpg
Views:	201
Size:	130.9 KB
ID:	109253  
__________________
I'm sorry, but there IS no Mars Bar.
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 October 2015, 11:32   #17
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,666
I rigged up a "floating" LED amber flasher which I find very useful at keeping oncoming and emerging side road traffic at bay. I KNOW it's illegal but no bites from the cops yet. It's quick release so comes off for launch and storage. Switched from the cab of the tow vehicle.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	flasher2.jpg
Views:	242
Size:	78.7 KB
ID:	109257  
__________________
I'm sorry, but there IS no Mars Bar.
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 October 2015, 15:22   #18
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,758
I didn't think forward lights were a requirement for BOAT trailers, but are for all others.

You said 4 connections. For Lights. I take it that's 2 in (12v and GND) and same out to next light? Curious, does anyone ground the GND to the trailer body rather than run a wire?

@MustRIB where/who is your local man? Ive got a braked trailer with no brakes working which would be good to get sorted without towing 500 miles to get there!
__________________
ShinyShoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 October 2015, 17:07   #19
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyShoe View Post
You said 4 connections. For Lights. I take it that's 2 in (12v and GND) and same out to next light? Curious, does anyone ground the GND to the trailer body rather than run a wire?
Yes, 12V and Ground. Interesting idea, I guess ground IS ground but I'd need a sealed stainless end fitting?
__________________
I'm sorry, but there IS no Mars Bar.
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 October 2015, 17:59   #20
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
That's a f'k off trailer for a 2.7m dinghy.

Which RB offering are you actually running these days?
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 12:21.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.