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Old 20 May 2007, 15:33   #21
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Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
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Well, that's what I thought you meant too. But you have very little or no clamping load onto the drawbar tube because the anti-crush tubes are taking the load. The anti crush-tube should be inside the drawbar so that the bolt squeezes the hitch onto the drawbar and onto the anti-crush tube. It is possble to do it your way but in that case the anti-crush tube should be welded to the drawbar at each end.

Your hitch won't come off but it is likely to move. You say this is the method used originally and perhaps thats why the holes were worn oval.
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Old 21 May 2007, 11:36   #22
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Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
I once painted a galvanised trailer and that was a big mistake.
I'll agree with this one. Well, at least if you want to protect it. If you just want it to look good for a week or two, it'll be fine (think selling the thing.)

jky
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Old 21 May 2007, 11:40   #23
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I'm referring to paint which is about 50% zinc. As jky said, it was labelled as cold galvanising on the tin. There is a big difference in levels of zinc corrosion in fresh water and salt water. Actually, I had a rethink about the zinc paint and it is more likely that it deteriorated quickly because of its reaction with the salt water rather than its sacrifice protecting the steel of the trailer.
Sorry about the spate of replis; been away from my machines at a wedding.

Anyway, the stuff we get here is supposedly something like 95% zinc (the rest being some sort of bonding agent, and, I suppose some aerosol stuff.)

CRC, among others, make and sell the stuff.

jky
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