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Old 18 May 2007, 16:34   #11
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Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
Are you on about the zinc weld through primers etc than come in an aerosol? Because they are really crap.
I'm referring to paint which is about 50% zinc. As jky said, it was labelled as cold galvanising on the tin. There is a big difference in levels of zinc corrosion in fresh water and salt water. Actually, I had a rethink about the zinc paint and it is more likely that it deteriorated quickly because of its reaction with the salt water rather than its sacrifice protecting the steel of the trailer.
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Old 18 May 2007, 16:46   #12
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Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon View Post
to be honest my trailer is a bit long as well and when i picked up the trailer i was of the thinking that i should shorten it by 24-30 inchs

however

over time i have come to realise this is a huge bonus for me as it means the car is that much further away from the water

attached is a pic of it so you can see how this compares to yours

personally i feel it is a big benefit for me....and....i can upgrade to a 7 - 7.5m boat and keep the trailer

Not easy to sell a 'trailer boat' without a trailer unless you adjust the price accordingly which defeats the object somewhat.
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Old 18 May 2007, 18:54   #13
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But if his boat were to sink or get nicked from the harbour, he'd have a nice trailer, ready for the 7-7.5 m replacement .........unless, of course, someone nicked the trailer while the boat was sinking...........
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Old 19 May 2007, 13:33   #14
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But if his boat were to sink or get nicked from the harbour, he'd have a nice trailer, ready for the 7-7.5 m replacement .........unless, of course, someone nicked the trailer while the boat was sinking...........
Now that scenario would only enter the head of a chap whom lived in the Swansea or possibly Mersey areas.I was thinking more along the lines of he'd have to buy a new trailer to sell with a used boat and then have to put a new boat on a used trailer?
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Old 19 May 2007, 13:57   #15
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.......a chap whom lived in the Swansea or possibly Mersey areas.
I'll have you know I have no association with either of those places. Not that there's anything wrong with Merseyside
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Old 19 May 2007, 14:49   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon View Post
to be honest my trailer is a bit long as well and when i picked up the trailer i was of the thinking that i should shorten it by 24-30 inchs

however

over time i have come to realise this is a huge bonus for me as it means the car is that much further away from the water

attached is a pic of it so you can see how this compares to yours

personally i feel it is a big benefit for me....and....i can upgrade to a 7 - 7.5m boat and keep the trailer


Bet that's not what you thought at Camber Dock a few weeks ago
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Old 20 May 2007, 04:53   #17
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Thanks for all the replies

Here's what happened in practice.

In the end I was amazed that B&Q has some suitable steel tubing, well actually I bought two lengths; one a nice tight fit in the other to give at least 2mm wall thickness. Bought a 16mm drill at the same time - to match the largest o.d.

I wanted this round tube to go right through the square tube, to provide extra bearing area on the bolt to square tube interface, since the main loads will be in the 'towing' direction. Which is also how original was done.

Drilled the holes and all proved to be a nice friction fit. Centre punched in 3 places around the o.d. of the short cross tube to stop it rotating - my thinking being that any rotation should be in the bolt only. The seam seemed to be on the top by the way.

Applied some protection, and tidied up / de-rusted the underside of the complete hitch assembly whilst access was easy. Was slightly embarrased to find a third grease nipple on the brake lever pivot point well hidden underneath - in six years I'd not noticed this before. But I bet I'm not the only one!

Still to check the hitch weighting, but the hand-lift test suggests I might get away with it - I think I was set up to be on the light side of the declared range because the old car used to look stupidly down at the back when all loaded up.

Overall pretty pleased, and in the end not as difficult as I thought it might be.

Hugh - there will be the odd occasion where I'll admit I'll regret losing the extra length. But I'd begun to realise that the existing length was becoming almost a showstopper for me taking the boat on hols with us - ever since one of the neighbours had a right moan about how much car park space we were taking. The trailer was simply backed into our normal car space against the perimeter wall, and to be honest I was also always worried that it would catch some other neighbours driver / car out and cause damage. Even with the prop bag hung over the hitch to give it extra visibility it just seemed too much like an accident waiting to happen. It probably still will be, but at least my conscience is as clear as it can be.

No the existing square tube wouldn't slide backwards. It has a slight downwards bend aft of where it meets the side frames, before it joins the first cross-member.
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Old 20 May 2007, 07:54   #18
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Originally Posted by Neil R View Post
I wanted this round tube to go right through the square tube, to provide extra bearing area on the bolt to square tube interface, since the main loads will be in the 'towing' direction. Which is also how original was done.

Drilled the holes and all proved to be a nice friction fit. Centre punched in 3 places around the o.d. of the short cross tube to stop it rotating - my thinking being that any rotation should be in the bolt only. The seam seemed to be on the top by the way.
Neil, I don't understand this, are you saying that the 16 tube is taking the crush load and this is only held to the square tube by the centrepunch dots?
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Old 20 May 2007, 08:01   #19
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Neil, I don't understand this, are you saying that the 16 tube is taking the crush load and this is only held to the square tube by the centrepunch dots?
My understanding is that he's drilled the box to so the tube passes through then centre punched on the join of the tube and box to work like a key and stop the tube from spinning

James
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Old 20 May 2007, 14:55   #20
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Confirm James (bedajim) has understood what I meant. The bolt (which is horizontal by the way) and side plates of hitch assy itself prevent any end-float of this crush tube, the centre punching stops the 'crush tube' from rotating with respect to the square tube (unlikely I know), which I think is the best means of ensuring that any wear due to the bearing-loads happens in the right place.

The centre punch technique is something I vaguely remember from a dim and distant past - possibly a means of retaining bearings in housings?
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