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Old 20 November 2011, 14:29   #1
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How to change a set of taper roller bearings PART 2

SORRY, HAD TO SPLIT THE POST DUE TO AMOUNT OF PICTURES.....



Old cup sat on top, to be used as a strike, to knock the new one in straight. Be careful here too! Bearing cups are hard, ergo brittle; smacking them together with too much brute force can cause them to shatter - remember the eye thing from earlier?....



Once the cup is going in straight remove the old one and use the drift to knock the new one fully in to place. You'll be able tell when it's sat on the lip, as it makes a different noise when you strike the drift (less hollow and tinney sound) and the rebound you feel through the hammer is more solid. This is stuff you pick up with experience over the years - you could always just pick the drum up and have a look to see if it's sat on the lip

Race sat in place:



Now you need to pack the bearings. Don't rely on a smear of grease on the cup to do the job. Pick the bearing up and wind the grease in to the bearing itself.



Now put the bearing in to the drum and put the seal in behind it (for the inner bearing):



And the front bearing in too:



You're now ready to re-install drum, re-using the thrust washer and castellated nut, not forgetting to use a new split pin.

Easy as that - happy hunting
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Old 20 November 2011, 15:44   #2
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Hi Trailer guy,

Excellent aid !
Having changed mine recently I was more than a little surprised to read in the Knott Avonride manual that when refitting the hub to torque the castleated nut up to a setting (that I cant rmember as i type this) but then to undo the nut, without turning the wheel, and tighten the nut again BY HAND and refit the split pin after a only this hand tighten.

The guy at the bearing shop told me to tighten it until the wheel doesnt turn by hand then slacken back half a turn.

Now I guess this may get it back to the same place on the thread, but just wondered how you did it?
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Old 20 November 2011, 18:01   #3
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Hi Crusher

I'd imagine it was something like 20lbft? Then you slacken back the nut a quarter of a turn. The end float on taper roller bearings is meant to be 0.1mm (0.004"), which is pretty hard to judge to mere mortals like us!

Unfortunately with forearms like mine I can tend to past 20lbft quite easily!

What I've always done is tighten up, by hand, as tight as I can (without going mad), to ensure the bearing has seated correctly, then slacken off a couple of notches of the castellated nut. At this point I put the split pin through (to keep the castellated nut at that point), but don't turn it over. Then rotate the wheel and make sure there's no play in the bearings. If there is I tighten up a bit more and then turn the split pin over. Bearings are always better loose than tight, so always err on the side of caution when tightening up.

Hope that helps?
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Old 20 November 2011, 19:45   #4
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I think the torque thing is to make sure the races are seated into the hub. Probably not necessary if you pound them in with a good driving tool; for occasional DIY guys, they may not go in quite all the way, and need a bit more of a nudge from the nut. Sort of a pre-stress to make sure things don't loosen up later.

At least that's what I've heard some guys say.


jky
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Old 21 November 2011, 09:46   #5
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Good post well put together thank you

TSM
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Old 21 November 2011, 10:03   #6
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TG how about one for changing sealed for life bearings?
I have done tapered many times but I have gone & bought a new boat & the trailer has the sealed ones which I have never done!

Nick
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Old 21 November 2011, 10:19   #7
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Hi Nick

Doubtless I'll be doing a set soon enough! As soon as I do I'll post it up.

All the best
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Old 21 November 2011, 11:18   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailer Guy View Post
Hi Nick

Doubtless I'll be doing a set soon enough! As soon as I do I'll post it up.

All the best

Thanks for all your time & advice you give so freely

Nick
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