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Old 30 January 2016, 16:57   #21
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thanks for info Ian, if i do the back only, or front for that matter, i will have same amount of rollers as you have there.

i don't know what the weight difference is with an osprey and a ribcraft but can't be too dissimilar you would think.

i was actually meant to goto a weight bridge today but snow put paid to that. JBT who sold the rib to me and trailer said it weighted 1250kg on their forklift for stacking.
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Old 03 February 2016, 12:24   #22
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I am a wee bit late adding to this, but FWIW.....

I have the same number of Roller as a you, and a boat that clocks in at around 470Kg fully fuelled.....

I normally need to give a small nudge to get her moving (unless it's a ridiculously steep slip...)

Now,I don't know if this is as relevant to you, but I have mine set up not too dissimilarly yo yours - i.e Rear set of rollers, then the next set just ahead of the axle, then the bow roller on the drawbar. About a couple of years ago I realised one of my middle roller sets had dropped by about 1/2". Further investigation showed the square section support had bowed in so the clamp bolt wasn't clamping. So to get me home I found a bit of 2x1, cut it to length, tie wrapped it to the vertical to prop it up and off I went.

A few trips later (yeah, I still hadn't fitted the new upright) and I noticed the end of the wood starting to splay. OK, thinks I, wha';s going on here - then I realised - the middle rollers are as good as fixed to the axle (fitted something like 6" ahead). The rear rollers are cantilevered off the axle to the tune of a metre & a half or so. Where is the max weight? - on the transom. My theory is the rear of the trailer flexes on every bump, thus adding to the load on the centre rollers. (confirmed by the "bang- bang_ & rubber marks on the hull I saw after a bumpy road on the loose one). I am giving thought to moving that fixed beam either back to beside the rear swing set, which will require the axle to move back too and therefore reduce the flexing, and will giove more support to the heaviest bit of the boat, or to move the beam as far forward as I can, thuis allowing the axle to "flex" in between them.

So, relating this back to your trailer......
- Very simplistically you have a bigger boat & the same # rollers = more friction per roller

If your trailer suffers the same "flex" as mine appears to, (maybe less so with the "thick" side beams) are you actually pounding the cetre rollers to give small flats that won't show up under no load but "engage" with the weight of the boat on them?


I'll let you know what happens when I move my beam, but don't hold your breath for a quick answer!
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Old 03 February 2016, 17:28   #23
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hey bud,

i've not been to the boat yet to measure up (this weekend maybe) but i'm planning to buy the larger rear set of beams/rollers and basically seeing how that goes.

i may also get the front ones at a later date.
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Old 03 February 2016, 17:43   #24
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hey bud,

i've not been to the boat yet to measure up (this weekend maybe) but i'm planning to buy the larger rear set of beams/rollers and basically seeing how that goes.

i may also get the front ones at a later date.
they don't show them on the website, but they do make two different length L brackets that go between the swing beam and roller beam, try a longer set on the front swing beam to just lift the bow a tad, might help it roll off, ask for Roy or Ben when you ring up
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Old 17 February 2016, 22:27   #25
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I got lots of rollers on my new trailer and it was a waste of time as half of them don't touch the hull! Not sure if it is imperfections in the rollers or imperfections in the hull, but there is half an inch gap on some of the roller sets. Unless you go for more than 2 swing beams, lots of rollers on a single swing beam is a waste of cash.
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Old 18 February 2016, 20:36   #26
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i was at the boat last weekend, Last Tango made a wee visit too!

LT was thinking the boat is maybe going uphill but not 100%, however, he had a suggestion i've never gave a thought about, lower the rear swing beam as there is another position......maybe!. i called SBS today but they never called me back . i want to double check i can do this, it seems logical but given the money involved i want to check.

assuming i can do this it should make launching easier as the back of the boat will be closer to floating and 100% downhill when pushing off.
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Old 19 February 2016, 06:16   #27
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i was at the boat last weekend, Last Tango made a wee visit too!

LT was thinking the boat is maybe going uphill but not 100%, however, he had a suggestion i've never gave a thought about, lower the rear swing beam as there is another position......maybe!. i called SBS today but they never called me back . i want to double check i can do this, it seems logical but given the money involved i want to check.

assuming i can do this it should make launching easier as the back of the boat will be closer to floating and 100% downhill when pushing off.
YES!! you can use either the upper or lower mountings holes, just check for clearance under the hull if you use the lower mounts
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Old 19 February 2016, 18:23   #28
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Sbs called back and confirmed it is fine to do, next job then!
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Old 20 February 2016, 09:00   #29
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Are you dropping the entire swing beam or moving the roller channel down the 3 bolt holes in the angle bracket ? I'm thinking of doing the same and not sure which would be best. I was thinking dropping the beam will make it easier to catch on uneven ground.
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Old 20 February 2016, 09:23   #30
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Are you dropping the entire swing beam or moving the roller channel down the 3 bolt holes in the angle bracket ? I'm thinking of doing the same and not sure which would be best. I was thinking dropping the beam will make it easier to catch on uneven ground.
Jeff, if you lower it on the 3 holes on the angle bracket, you need to check that the bow/keel doesn't catch the swing beam when launching & recovering. The way I set mine up was to launch the boat, lower the rollers, attach the winch to the boat & start winching on. Keep your hand between the keel & the swing beam to check the clearance.
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Old 20 February 2016, 10:37   #31
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I am lowering the entire beam, i cant lower the rollers as the hull hits the beam already.
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Old 20 February 2016, 16:19   #32
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Are you dropping the entire swing beam or moving the roller channel down the 3 bolt holes in the angle bracket ? I'm thinking of doing the same and not sure which would be best. I was thinking dropping the beam will make it easier to catch on uneven ground.
I raised my swing beam to stop it catching on a stony beach' much better now, I also lowered the roller beam on the angle brackets, rib still sit higher than it used to but swing beam doesn't catch now
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Old 22 February 2016, 10:28   #33
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I am lowering the entire beam, i cant lower the rollers as the hull hits the beam already.
I also did that to mine - more for avoiding introducing the garage door to the A-frame, but that added to the 10" wheels (I dread when those tyres die - they are a bit obscure and so £££!) - but, The boat is sufficiently low that I can launch by floating it off at all but Port Edgar (so far!) without un- hitching! (well, ignoring ones where I have kept the car out the green slimy stuff)

Not grounded the boat or trailer yet.
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Old 27 February 2016, 22:31   #34
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beam lowered (thanks last tango!) and the boat now hits the axle when loading

more work to be done, not sure what yet.
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Old 27 February 2016, 22:55   #35
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Can you fit a spacer bar between axle and chassis?
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Old 29 February 2016, 20:17   #36
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ordered the bigger L brackets SBS make which will give me the choice of going up upto 4".

will update on how things progress.
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