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Old 13 February 2013, 11:47   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tino View Post
Are electric trailer brakes illegal in Europe?
Electric brakes are very common on travel trailers, oversized utility trailers etc. Pretty much anything too small or intermittent use to have air brakes. Surge brakes are actually pretty rare in the trailer universe since the degree of braking depends on how much the trailer is "pushing" on the tow vehicle. If the road is bad or its not a straight push the trailer wants to jackknife the car. Hence the preference for brakes which are independent of the force on the hitch.
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Old 13 February 2013, 16:44   #12
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I assume that is $1000 installed? Probably a fair price if the proper quality of kit is used. You could also buy the kits and have someone install them if you do not want to take it on yourself. If you decide to have someone purchase the kits for you, I would request at the least the first one listed below.

This kit is probably the one I would use on my own boat.
Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 10" Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless Steel - 3,500 lbs Kodiak Trailer Brakes K2R35DS

You can always upgrade to stainless rotors down the line.
Kodiak 10" Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - Stainless Steel - 3,500 lbs Kodiak Accessories and Parts KR10S

Of course if Pimp is your middle name...
Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 10" Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - Stainless Steel - 3,500 lbs Kodiak Trailer Brakes K2R35S

Options for the brake actuator/release solenoid.
etrailer.com - Products reverse solenoid

There are plenty more options and you can probably ask the manufacturer for the install manual in PDF.
Kodiak Trailer Components - home

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
Simply an observation - Wow. you relying on electrics to disengage in reverse? Based on a sizeable proportion of trailer lighting that doesn't work over here, I really hope your standard connectors are a bit better designed than ours!
Y'all should be doing a light check every time you connect to your trailer. Takes a quick walk around the trailer. How hard is that? Turn on the running lights and the hazard lights and you just checked everything. Okay so not reverse, but there is always a manual option to disengage the surge brakes, that can even be accomplished with a coin. Plus if backing downhill or a ramp the surge brakes won't be engaged anyhow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
....and do you want electric actuation on a trailer that is going to go swimming in salt water?
If you are submersing your brake actuator, you are also submersing your master cylinder. Neither are good. Keep them high and dry.
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Old 13 February 2013, 17:58   #13
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Peter,

You just saved me a bunch of money and I'll be getting better parts as well. Thx, for the links.

Chris
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Old 13 February 2013, 18:36   #14
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Cool, I know who to call next time we are up that way for a boat ride We'll bring lunch!

The more I think about it, I would recommend calling Kodiac Trailer tech support and explaining to them your current setup and ask their advice on the actuator and pressure valve, along with the release solenoid. Might want to have a picture ready to email, along with the current brand of equipment if possible.
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Old 14 February 2013, 14:18   #15
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I like lunch.

Will post back what ended up with. Looks like I may be able to retrofit my existing actuator but not sure yet.

Will call Kodiac as well.
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Old 14 February 2013, 15:33   #16
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Ok, so reporting back in this thread on what I ended up with in case it informs someone else.

I was able to actually retrofit my existing hydraulic surge actuator for drum brakes to a disc brake actuator with reverse solenoid by purchasing a new master cylinder designed for disc brakes and also by purchasing a reverse solenoid for it. So that works really well and saves me money. The existing actuator is new and I hate throwing out new parts.

I ended up not going with Kodiak. I ended up with UFP kits. They have stainless pistons and aluminum calipers and calipers mount directly to my bolt pattern without a bracket. Supposedly they hold up just as well as the more expensive Kodiac dacramet/stainless. But I'm sure someone is going to debate that. The kits also came with full bearing sets and even bearing buddies for $265 a set which is awesome price.

So basically, a full disc conversion on all 4 wheels is running $650 with free shipping as well and no tax. The original quoteI got with not as good a setup was almost double that.

That's a great deal. Can't wait to try this setup out.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/index...o&prodId=56545

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/index...o&prodId=46176

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/index...o&prodId=48364
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Old 14 February 2013, 16:03   #17
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Oops, well not quite that simple.

I can't keep the Attwood, or at least it's not economical to do so. Would need more than just master cylinder, so I'm getting this actuator instead which is designed for dual axle disc.

UFP A-75 Brake Actuator for TANDEM Disc Brakes, 7500lb. cap. (bolt-on). #47102
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Old 15 February 2013, 14:58   #18
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$650 for 4 wheels is pretty damn cheap. As I recall, pricing a Kodiak kit for my single axle was running just over that.

jky
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