Folding Road Trailer

[knube1]

Road test yesterday through up two issues, I tow with a Range rover and the trailer sits nose up, I have looked on the net at some pictures and it appear some trailers have a box section bolted onto the main beam, this would lower the front by 50mm and sort my problem, is this an acceptable way to do it, anyone have any other solutions.

When towing on our well maintained roads the front of the dingy was bouncing up and down, my solution to this was to fit the bracket in the photo as I do not need a winch post, re tested on the road and has made the front end solid.

[jeffstevens763@g]

i have a ratchet strap to stop mine bouncing from the boat tow eye to the trailer

[Phil M]

Personally I'd consider a diagonal brace from the axle to the central member. The t bracket you have is quite small and will not take much deforming under uneven wheel loads, for example if one wheel hits a pothole, stone, kurb etc. The force of a car pulling the middle with the wheel against a gate post or something could potentially be very high and the bending moment will tear the t plates apart. Other than that, it looks very good.

Phil

(mechanical/structural engineer!)

[knube1]

Thanks for the input Phil, I had also thought of this but I copied this design http://www.leisure-trailer.co.uk/index.htm I assumed they would have carried out some load testing. be it that I have adapted it to bunks instead of the roller system they have, what I will probable do is some local testing on rough surfaces to ascertain if there is any movement or degradation on the joint in a safe environment, plenty of deep pot hole round here.

[knube1]

Ok last bit of my build, having thought about Phil M advice I have fitted two braces, as you can see from the pictures I have made them simple to remove, I have also finished the lighting board, note I have fitted a socket on the back so I can store the cable coiled up separately, I have utilized the transom wheel brackets, this has made it simple to install and remove without having to grovel about under the Sib on my hands and knees, you cannot see them in the pic's but i have fitted two brackets to the underside of the bunks that let me fit the lighting board directly to the trailer for when towing solo

[knube1]

One more

[Gazzago]

Fantastic job!

Can you build me one now [emoji1]

[Phil M]

That bracing looks spot on and will massively reduce stresses at the T joint. One thing to keep an eye on is the connection to the transom for the lighting board struts. Although the board isn't heavy, you have a long moment arm back to relatively small bracket footprints. Probably fine but I'd advise checking the connection to the transom every so often.

Phil M

[knube1]

If my spinal surgery this year goes pear shaped you can have this one, just looked at your Oban trip looks like you had a fantastic time, I see you transport with the engine mounted, I did consider doing this, what ground clearance do you have between the skeg and the road, are there any draw backs.

[knube1]

Hi Phil, thanks for the advice, will do, as the brackets are able to support the Sib loaded and with the engine mounted I have assumed they would be ok.

[knube1]

Forgot this one showing the slots in the lighting board that slide over the brackets.

[Gazzago]

Originally Posted by knube1

If my spinal surgery this year goes pear shaped you can have this one, just looked at your Oban trip looks like you had a fantastic time, I see you transport with the engine mounted, I did consider doing this, what ground clearance do you have between the skeg and the road, are there any draw backs.

Thanks. We had a great time. Hoping for more adventures this year too. From memory there is about 8 inches clearance under the skeg. Never hit anything so seems ok. I have the bunks lifted up to achieve this. There is endless discussions about engine up vs down to trailer it. I prefer down if possible.

You’ve really put some thought and quality engineering into your trailer. I like it. [emoji1303]