Flush kit position

Trailer Guy · 14 August 2013, 13:17

Hi

On one if yesterday's services I fitted a flushing kit for the customer.

If any of you have the twin rail Snipe trailers this is an excellent mounting point for the Hozelock:

AJ. · 14 August 2013, 14:02

I have been sucking my teeth over fitting a flush kit to my rapide trailer for a long time now. I have read through a few threads on this but yet so see any concrete evidence that they make a difference.

Has anyone got any views on this or can demonstrate improved longevity since fitting a flushing kit against before fitting?

My closest slipway is a good 100+ miles away from where the trailer lives so the hubs dry out and I suppose with some salt in there but i do wash the hubs after every dunk and do put the hose against some of the tiny drilled holes in the back plate to do the best I can.

Maximus · 14 August 2013, 15:31

I'd say go for it!...I have one (fitted from new) and I think they work well...I'm always amazed at the Crap and Crud it dislodges after a flushing!...so it would follow it get's rid of at least most of the salt post Dunking!
Especialy good when used with a Power washer!...and I also find them useful for cooling the Brakes/Bearings with Fresh water before Launching i.e. after a long Tow.
Also have the Alloy Hub- Bearing protectors fitted,which seem to work well too....Anyway Towed this trailer in excess of 4,000 miles+ so far...with MANY Launches /Recovery's and thankfully no problems

And I do Check it regularly.

matt h · 14 August 2013, 16:11

Quote:

And I do Check it regularly.

Ah but do you check your nuts regularly though as nothing is worse than loose nuts!!

A1an · 14 August 2013, 17:35

I've been thinking about one of these kits but know very little about them.

I may be well off the mark here but could you gravity flush the brakes using a five gallon drum on the bow of the boat connected to the hose lock connector?

Or does it require mains pressure?

Maximus · 14 August 2013, 18:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by A1an

I've been thinking about one of these kits but know very little about them.

I may be well off the mark here but could you gravity flush the brakes using a five gallon drum on the bow of the boat connected to the hose lock connector?

Or does it require mains pressure?

That seems a lot of Hassel to go to!!

...
Mains Pressure+ Hose-pipe... or Better still a Power washer, does the job!...and a Few Others on the Boat/ Engine/Trailer too!

Poly · 14 August 2013, 18:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximus

That seems a lot of Hassel to go to!!

..

I'm guessing A1an doesn't have ready access to fresh water at the boat (and doesn't bring the boat home after each trip) but could easily bring a can of water with him?

BigDipper · 14 August 2013, 18:28

Made up one for my trailer myself and it made a huge difference as we have had no problem with seized drums since. The brakes used to lock up almost everytime before we fitted it as we only towed it up the ramp into the boatyard. Would not recommended using a pressure washer as they have high pressure but low flow and its the quantity of water you need. We connect ours up and roll forward a couple of meters to ensure it all gets a good soaking with fresh water.

Maximus · 14 August 2013, 18:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

I'm guessing A1an doesn't have ready access to fresh water at the boat (and doesn't bring the boat home after each trip) but could easily bring a can of water with him?

If so...and having gone to all that Trouble I cant see the Gravity thing working Poly,can you?..Although a Hose is fine,and a lot of Slipways these days come complete with Fresh Water Facility's ...I get best results when using a Pressure Washer as I said,...as it gets into all the Nooks and Crannie's and sorts it.

Maximus · 14 August 2013, 18:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigDipper

Made up one for my trailer myself and it made a huge difference as we have had no problem with seized drums since. The brakes used to lock up almost everytime before we fitted it as we only towed it up the ramp into the boatyard. Would not recommended using a pressure washer as they have high pressure but low flow and its the quantity of water you need. We connect ours up and roll forward a couple of meters to ensure it all gets a good soaking with fresh water.

My experience pretty much before I had the flushing ports....But Don't agree at all about lack of flow....I use a Hose at the slip when poss, then the Washer when I get home..for the whole Boat... The Pressure washer is far better for flushing! Just do it a little longer if your worried

AJ. · 14 August 2013, 19:00

I would tend to agree Maximus that I can't see gravity fed getting into all the drum more like bottom half of the drum unless you rolled the trailer half a wheel turn and put more water through. Obviously the back plate wouldn't turn. But maybe better than nothing....... This is what I am keen to understand is it worth it, does it noticbly delay bearing brake corrosion?

Poly · 14 August 2013, 19:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximus

I cant see the Gravity thing working Poly,can you?

I don't know. I don't have a braked trailer so don't have the issues that some people have. My biggest issues have been with the jockey wheel seizing

and I noticed last time I used it that the hitch clamp was starting to corrode. I also have the advantage of oil bath bearings so haven't really given trailer flushing too much thought. And it seems happy with a gentle hose all over. However 5L of fresh water is probably better than nothing? especially if the kit gets it to the right places.

lakelandterrier · 15 August 2013, 07:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ.

I have been sucking my teeth over fitting a flush kit to my rapide trailer for a long time now. I have read through a few threads on this but yet so see any concrete evidence that they make a difference.

Has anyone got any views on this or can demonstrate improved longevity since fitting a flushing kit against before fitting?

My closest slipway is a good 100+ miles away from where the trailer lives so the hubs dry out and I suppose with some salt in there but i do wash the hubs after every dunk and do put the hose against some of the tiny drilled holes in the back plate to do the best I can.

I don't know how this compares, but my Snipe - single axle braked - trailer was factory fitted with Alko sealed bearings & hub flush kit.

It's had its firsts proper service after 2 1/2 years, c.1800 miles of towing and at least 30 saltwater launches / recoveries.

Only things needing replacement were brake pads & wheel bearings (bearings worn on 1 side but seemed sensible to replace both). No corrosion issues. Apart from regular checks greasing hitch / rollers / winch, and a thorough wash down after each recovery (but not launch) I've carried out no other maintenance. I can wash down at my regular launch point though.

Maximus · 15 August 2013, 07:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ.

I would tend to agree Maximus that I can't see gravity fed getting into all the drum more like bottom half of the drum unless you rolled the trailer half a wheel turn and put more water through. Obviously the back plate wouldn't turn. But maybe better than nothing....... This is what I am keen to understand is it worth it, does it noticbly delay bearing brake corrosion?

Err Yeah!...

IMO most certainly!... AND Hub-Brakes ect

I've tried both...and learnt the hard way....I may Tow more than most though!
I like to say...A Clever Man learns by his mistakes....
A Wise Man..by Other Peoples!

9D280 · 15 August 2013, 08:04

Well I have had mine (trailer) since new & it also came with a flush kit. (Knott Axle)

I modified the flush kit for nothing more than convenience reasons - it had 2 separate feeds - one for each wheel- so I T-d them together & ran the hose to the bow snubber post for a single feed point accessible from both sides.

Bback to the original Q:

On mine the spray nozzles are fitted at the point where the lever mechanism is - it;s a single jet and fires betweeen the pad carriers onto the back of the hub, form where it bounces back & soaks everything, so if the cable is at 1o'clock, the spray is at 11 & vice versa on the other side.

I usually do a minimum of 40 mins tow after a salt water launch, so the hubs get dried out nicely. The trailer is now 6 years old, and the only thing I have changed in the hubs so far was the return springs & the grease, but the springs were more down to me being paranoid that the apparent surface corrosion after 6 years was working on them. Total mileage? Goodness knows. If you really want to know I could go work it out from the boat fuel logs (I'll know where I launched!)

So yes, I'd say go for it, BUT if you hardly travel any distance will the insides dry out properly and you'll just end up leaving the gubbins inside wet so corrosion will set in anyway?

Festinghouse · 15 August 2013, 08:56

the insides getting wet isnt the problem as far as i can see - drying out from salt water has got to be the worst thing as it will leave all the salt behind. my reckoning is that if youre gonna flush, then it should be done as soon as it comes out of the sea - even after launching. my boat doesnt leave our caravan site all year so i just strip the brakes out and use a crappy set of bearings all year, then replace before bringing the boat home in october.