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Old 14 August 2013, 15:00   #11
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I would tend to agree Maximus that I can't see gravity fed getting into all the drum more like bottom half of the drum unless you rolled the trailer half a wheel turn and put more water through. Obviously the back plate wouldn't turn. But maybe better than nothing....... This is what I am keen to understand is it worth it, does it noticbly delay bearing brake corrosion?
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Old 14 August 2013, 15:19   #12
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I cant see the Gravity thing working Poly,can you?
I don't know. I don't have a braked trailer so don't have the issues that some people have. My biggest issues have been with the jockey wheel seizing and I noticed last time I used it that the hitch clamp was starting to corrode. I also have the advantage of oil bath bearings so haven't really given trailer flushing too much thought. And it seems happy with a gentle hose all over. However 5L of fresh water is probably better than nothing? especially if the kit gets it to the right places.
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Old 15 August 2013, 03:40   #13
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I have been sucking my teeth over fitting a flush kit to my rapide trailer for a long time now. I have read through a few threads on this but yet so see any concrete evidence that they make a difference.

Has anyone got any views on this or can demonstrate improved longevity since fitting a flushing kit against before fitting?

My closest slipway is a good 100+ miles away from where the trailer lives so the hubs dry out and I suppose with some salt in there but i do wash the hubs after every dunk and do put the hose against some of the tiny drilled holes in the back plate to do the best I can.

I don't know how this compares, but my Snipe - single axle braked - trailer was factory fitted with Alko sealed bearings & hub flush kit.

It's had its firsts proper service after 2 1/2 years, c.1800 miles of towing and at least 30 saltwater launches / recoveries.

Only things needing replacement were brake pads & wheel bearings (bearings worn on 1 side but seemed sensible to replace both). No corrosion issues. Apart from regular checks greasing hitch / rollers / winch, and a thorough wash down after each recovery (but not launch) I've carried out no other maintenance. I can wash down at my regular launch point though.
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Old 15 August 2013, 03:55   #14
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I would tend to agree Maximus that I can't see gravity fed getting into all the drum more like bottom half of the drum unless you rolled the trailer half a wheel turn and put more water through. Obviously the back plate wouldn't turn. But maybe better than nothing....... This is what I am keen to understand is it worth it, does it noticbly delay bearing brake corrosion?
Err Yeah!... IMO most certainly!... AND Hub-Brakes ect I've tried both...and learnt the hard way....I may Tow more than most though!
I like to say...A Clever Man learns by his mistakes....
A Wise Man..by Other Peoples!
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Old 15 August 2013, 04:04   #15
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Well I have had mine (trailer) since new & it also came with a flush kit. (Knott Axle)

I modified the flush kit for nothing more than convenience reasons - it had 2 separate feeds - one for each wheel- so I T-d them together & ran the hose to the bow snubber post for a single feed point accessible from both sides.

Bback to the original Q:

On mine the spray nozzles are fitted at the point where the lever mechanism is - it;s a single jet and fires betweeen the pad carriers onto the back of the hub, form where it bounces back & soaks everything, so if the cable is at 1o'clock, the spray is at 11 & vice versa on the other side.

I usually do a minimum of 40 mins tow after a salt water launch, so the hubs get dried out nicely. The trailer is now 6 years old, and the only thing I have changed in the hubs so far was the return springs & the grease, but the springs were more down to me being paranoid that the apparent surface corrosion after 6 years was working on them. Total mileage? Goodness knows. If you really want to know I could go work it out from the boat fuel logs (I'll know where I launched!)

So yes, I'd say go for it, BUT if you hardly travel any distance will the insides dry out properly and you'll just end up leaving the gubbins inside wet so corrosion will set in anyway?
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Old 15 August 2013, 04:56   #16
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the insides getting wet isnt the problem as far as i can see - drying out from salt water has got to be the worst thing as it will leave all the salt behind. my reckoning is that if youre gonna flush, then it should be done as soon as it comes out of the sea - even after launching. my boat doesnt leave our caravan site all year so i just strip the brakes out and use a crappy set of bearings all year, then replace before bringing the boat home in october.
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