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Old 25 November 2010, 09:41   #11
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
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Sounds like similar problems to what I had when I started out with the Arctic, the trailer being designed more for craning the boat on and off.

My suggestions would be:

modify/adjust trailer so the boat sits higher on the trailer giving more clearance for your props. Being able to safely apply a fair amount of thrust is quite important for power loading which you can't do if the motor's tilted right up.

Extend the drawbar to compensate for the above, putting the boat and trailer back in sufficient water depth.

Fit docking arms. I've nearly always got a crosswind and a surge across my slipway and I could be there for hours trying to line the boat up correctly.
Since fitting docking arms I have no trouble at all.

Attach some sort of wings with rubber etc to the winch post to catch the bow as she comes in and direct it to centre. These need to be as long as poss to catch the boat early.

All the above would be much easier than making a full frame like the rnli trailers and still do the job. My docking arms are removable, can't remember if I put photos on my build thread but if you want to see more the trailers just down the road, I can get some more.

I'd be wary of suggestions of doing away with keel rollers, it's the one part of the hull thats designed to take the weight of the boat. Larger diameter ones with plenty of width could be handy, the big diameter bringing the top of them away from bits of metal where they are mounted. Extra width is handy because as you'll never get the boat to sit exactly dead centre.
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Old 25 November 2010, 10:29   #12
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You have probably got enough suggestions to be going on with, but I cant resist.

We too have very poor slips and a charming combo of wind and surge.

Keep the keel rollers, but ensure you have enough guidance to get lined up on them every time.

Banks of rollers at the end of the trailer can help a lot, then use big bunks for the boat to rest on.
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Old 25 November 2010, 11:07   #13
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Country: UK - Wales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
I'd be wary of suggestions of doing away with keel rollers, it's the one part of the hull thats designed to take the weight of the boat.
Good point, but many RIBs of this size sit on roller type trailers, where the keel isn't supported and the entire weight of the RIB rests on rollers having a much smaller surface area than the bunks on bogmonster's current trailer. My own Vipermax 5.8 is fine supported on (32) hull rollers alone.
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Old 25 November 2010, 11:31   #14
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Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
RNLI - interesting idea... ta what do the boats sit on when they are on the trailer? rollers or bunks?
For interest....some pics here scroll to the last post I made http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...um+cage&page=2

Not suggesting these would be of any use to you, but shows how the 75 trailers work....roller at each end and bunks in the middle.....

The new 85 trailer has a pair of rollered gates to guide you in to the trailer mouth (haven't seen one in the flesh)....wheres the fun in that

Dan
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Old 25 November 2010, 14:53   #15
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I dont know what the issue is with a roller trailer.

I regularly use mine to recover on shallow rock strewn beaches. As long as you judge it right once the bow is in between the two sets of rear rollers its easy to power the back round to straighten up and then a quick burst of power gets it onto the trailer. I just make sure that the trailer is deep enough in the first place.

Once I am almost all the way on I leave a little bit of power on then go up front and clip on the winch. Power off, engine up and winch on.

Done !

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Old 26 November 2010, 04:29   #16
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Thanks for all the replies

The trailer is a SBS R2-1800B which I think will lend itself fairly well to modification as it has a good solid ladder frame layout (one of the reasons I opted for it over a roller trailer).

I think as a temporary measure I may just remove all the keel rollers and fit a single long curved wooden bunk right the way down the keel and a banked V to guide her in, this will allow me to use it much like the old one. Anything complicated means I'll have to order in any other bits (probably even down to getting the right sized U bolts etc) which will be a couple of months coming unless I spend a fortune on DHL and I've also got a problem with not having anywhere really safe to keep the boat in the water while the trailer is being modified though I might be able to scrounge a telehandler and strops to lift her off for a while.

Will be interested to see Biffer's pictures.

I have a couple of bent props in the garage that testify to a good burst of power not being the answer for loading on this particular site there are 2 beaches one slopes off to flat in about 4ft of water and the other one drops off at 45 degrees down to about 20ft just below the low tide mark
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Old 26 November 2010, 05:04   #17
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. I just make sure that the trailer is deep enough in the first place.
I find the opposite - too deep in and the bow doesn't fully engage with the rear roller banks, and ends up on the p!ss by the time it's halfway on.
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Old 26 November 2010, 12:19   #18
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For a lot of years, I've had similar problems. Now I've copied this example accurately;



Apart from substituting his warn 4500 for a superwinch terra 4500. There is far more power than is needed.

I've used Wichards on both shackles.

The remote means connecting the line while pulling it tight on to the boat with the other hand (this is enough even in quite strong cross winds to keep the hull in line. as soon as the line/winch takes the load, the whole rigs straightens on the rollers.

single handed in most conditions (keep some perspective here) is simple..

From a safety point of view, it betters the standard system we all use in a significant way; if you watch cars pulling heavy ribs up slips it's nearly always only the winch strap holding the hull on the trailer, this always looks a little iffy to me, with this new setup, there is much less chance of the initial inertia causing a boat to depart from the trailer...

I think (and I've done it many times) Using the engine at the point of recovery is full of potential issues....this system means it's off as soon as you hook on. It all works better if you keep it a little shallower,power is no longer an issue and your bearings will last longer.
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Old 26 November 2010, 15:31   #19
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Now I've copied this example accurately;
Including playing the dodgy 70's porn music on the RIBs soundsytem during the launch?
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Old 26 November 2010, 16:23   #20
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Whilst this is OTT, this is what I had in mind on my first post.
Steve
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