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Old 06 May 2015, 17:13   #11
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Originally Posted by Cluais View Post
Ya adjusted at drum first till wheel won't turn then opposite way until wheel turned freely which was about 3/4 turn with ratchet
Then tightened up everything else
Everything is new incl cables,threaded bar
Previous owner had everthing disconnected and brakes taken out
It's the same knocking or bang I had before when I had no brakes that's why I think it's the damper but I will adjust the brakes again
You've done it correctly. I did exactly the same job last year.

Look under the hitch for oil staining.
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Old 06 May 2015, 20:54   #12
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This might be of help: How to check if the trailer or caravan coupling damper needs replacing
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Old 07 May 2015, 10:49   #13
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Check that your tow ball is tight; mine makes a decent thump on acceleration and braking if it slips on the drawbar.

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Old 06 August 2015, 19:18   #14
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My trailer gave the same "thud" on braking.
Changed the damper in my Bradley braking hitch.
Only one type of damper was listed for the hitch. Took about an hour to change.
Nothing difficult just some very tight bolts to remove.
Dont forget to get new Nylock nuts when re-fitting.
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Old 08 August 2015, 04:27   #15
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The damper is only to take the shock out of the braking system, it's to ensure the brakes come on smoothly. If the brakes don't work, the damper will bottom out & thud. The G forces on a tonne plus of trailer braking after tonking along at 60mph ain't going to be overcome by a piddly little gas spring that you can practically compress by hand. The damper isn't there to stop the "Thud", that's what the brakes are for. If the brakes aren't set up correctly, then no amount of new dampers will stop the thudding.
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Old 08 August 2015, 04:44   #16
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Well I do a lot of towing and never had a thud before on braking.
Changed the damper and nice and smooth again.
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Old 08 August 2015, 05:21   #17
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Are the brakes working ok? What usually happens, the brakes don't work, so the damper works overtime & eventually gives up. Fit a new damper without adjusting the brakes & the new damper appears to work for a while & then gives up.


.....sh1t happens.......
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Old 08 August 2015, 06:49   #18
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I must admit I thought it was the damper movement that pushed the linkage to pull the brake cable that applies the brakes.

If the damper is not moving ie jammed/seized then the brakes won't apply and you'll get that thump when braking. Again I thought also the damper takes up the movement when pulling away, to soften the jolt.
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Old 08 August 2015, 08:26   #19
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I must admit I thought it was the damper movement that pushed the linkage to pull the brake cable that applies the brakes.



If the damper is not moving ie jammed/seized then the brakes won't apply and you'll get that thump when braking. Again I thought also the damper takes up the movement when pulling away, to soften the jolt.

All of the above. My point is, if the brakes don't work, then you will still get a thud, regardless of the state of the damper. If the brakes don't work, the trailer compresses the damper, the damper bottoms out & the trailer runs into the tow all causing the thud. On a properly set up trailer, the brakes should retard the trailer before the damper bottoms. The brakes & damper work in tandem, one is no good without the other.


.....sh1t happens.......
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Old 08 August 2015, 08:37   #20
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Looks like your trying to knock a wall down with your head again Dave 😜
I've done my on brakes recently and I can feel the trailer slowing the motor down
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