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Old 11 August 2009, 04:34   #21
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Boat name: Wildheart
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Originally Posted by Julie View Post
Hi,

If the distance between the chassis bars is the width????? The trailer is 1.4m wide.

Julie
Best way I can describe it is the two beams that run parallel with the keel. (the bits down the side with the snipe stickers on them in your pictures) f you can measure the distance between the inside faces of them, I'll need to remember to actually measure mine when I get home! Having said that, I have the braked axle so mine might be a bit wider, but assuming that your 1.4 is what I just described and not the overall width over the mudguards then I bet someone will make a swing beam that will fit........


Other thing to mention is that if you order a new trailer they don't tend to take into account the overhanging toobs on a rib when they say "fits boats between x & Y length". If you do go down that road, the "solid " length is likely going to be about a metre less than the overall length. Measure the solid bit of the hull & use that length so you don't end up with the "ludicrous length drawbar" syndrom. (I've managed to get a braked trailer and a 5m boat into a 5.7m long garage) If you can tow unbraked, you're laughing.
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Old 11 August 2009, 05:16   #22
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Hi,

It was the right bits of the trailer then.... But i did measure from the outer edge, so it'll knock a few cm's off.....

You'll have to see if you'res is bigger than mine then...

Thanks
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Old 11 August 2009, 06:23   #23
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I'll measure the outside as well then. Looks like the same chassis, so probably has the same size metalwork. (famous last words......)

Other option might be to phone Indespension in Glasgow (phone your mortgage broker first!) as a swing beam off one off their range might fit if Mersea canlt supply you with a Snipe original. Autow in Perth used to be Snipe dealers when snipe were Snipe in Birmingham, but not sure if they now sell the Mersea / Snipe range or not. They've been really helpful when I've gone for bits. Might be worth a call?
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Old 11 August 2009, 06:28   #24
JSP
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I've got an unbraked Indespension trailer. It's 750KG. Would it be any use if I measure the swing beam for you?
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Old 11 August 2009, 07:50   #25
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Do you want to change your trailer to rollers because the rib does not slide on and off easily?
If so why don't you put teflon or poly strips on the bunks/runners.make sure you countersink the fastners.
For centring the hull during retrievale place a steel section from the inside of the bunk to the outside of the keel roller on each side and cover the top that is closest to the hull with teflon or poly strips.It forms a "V", to guide the hull.
I have this setup on my searider 5.4 and can drive it on the trailer if i want.
I need to keep the power on while I hookup the winch otherwise by the time i get to the front of the boat, the boat would have lanched itself. There is not much friction on this setup.
The hull is still supported by the long bunks and not just where the rollers are contacting the hull.
I can take some photos if you want.
regards
rpm
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Old 12 August 2009, 02:51   #26
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Do you want to change your trailer to rollers because the rib does not slide on and off easily?rpm
Hi there,

My original query was mainly about the depth of water required to launch/recover. I witness some RIB's recovered in less water than I needed for my trailer, and was very impressed!

Thanks
Julie
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Old 12 August 2009, 06:47   #27
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Hi there,

My original query was mainly about the depth of water required to launch/recover. I witness some RIB's recovered in less water than I needed for my trailer, and was very impressed!

Thanks
Julie
julie
Sounds like you need a tilt trailer, so you can get the rear roller lower while retreiving.
Tilt trailers hinge the draw bar of the trailer. One photo shows the locking pin and the other shows where the draw bar hinges, just behind the winch post.
If you can imagine lifting the front of your trailer while you are retreiving your boat, that is what happens with a tilt trailer except you don't need to unhitch your trailer from your car
to get the back of your trailer lower. It wouldn't be to hard to convert your trailer.
regards
rpm
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Old 12 August 2009, 07:33   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r mcdonald View Post
julie
Sounds like you need a tilt trailer, so you can get the rear roller lower while retreiving.
Tilt trailers hinge the draw bar of the trailer. One photo shows the locking pin and the other shows where the draw bar hinges, just behind the winch post.
If you can imagine lifting the front of your trailer while you are retreiving your boat, that is what happens with a tilt trailer except you don't need to unhitch your trailer from your car
to get the back of your trailer lower. It wouldn't be to hard to convert your trailer.
regards
rpm

More known as Break back over here I think.
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Old 12 August 2009, 09:53   #29
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More known as Break back over here I think.
JSP
Yes, it is known as both Break back or tilt trailer here.
regards
rpm
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