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Old 02 October 2004, 12:24   #41
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Things were worse than originally thought; we had the brake drums off to find out why the brakes were sticking on one side. The result was the cables have seized no grease nipples to lubricate them; the brake shoes on the nearside were down to bare metal. The bearings & all the brake adjusters were all ok, now all we have to get is 2 sets of brake shoes, 2 caps, 2 cables & 2 locking nuts. Not too good for a trailer thatís only done a couple of thousand miles in 9 months.
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Old 03 October 2004, 11:30   #42
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OUCH ! £125 for brake shoes & cables for both sides & I couldnít get any cables with grease nipples so we are going to have to go through this again in 9 months time.
Unless anyone knows where I can get cables to fit ALKO brakes with grease nipples?
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Old 04 October 2004, 04:15   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackwabbit
OUCH ! £125 for brake shoes & cables for both sides & I couldnít get any cables with grease nipples so we are going to have to go through this again in 9 months time.
Unless anyone knows where I can get cables to fit ALKO brakes with grease nipples?
No you can't as far as I know, the grease will end up causing friction on the cables!
I replaced mine 2 years ago & B4 fitting poured 3 in 1 down them which I have just repeated 2 weeks ago!
Disconnected from hubs held up by string, then filled the cup at the end of the cable & let it drain down, repeat a couple of times till it comes out the other end!
Very quick job to do as you check the bearings!
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Old 04 October 2004, 05:07   #44
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No you can't as far as I know, the grease will end up causing friction on the cables!
I replaced mine 2 years ago & B4 fitting poured 3 in 1 down them which I have just repeated 2 weeks ago!
Disconnected from hubs held up by string, then filled the cup at the end of the cable & let it drain down, repeat a couple of times till it comes out the other end!
Very quick job to do as you check the bearings!
Nick
The only problem with this is those ALKO hubs, is every time you take off the hub you have to get new caps at £6.99 each & new locking nuts. Which I still have to find before we can put the whole thing back together, and god knows how much they are going to be!
Why should we have to buy two new caps & locking nuts just to lubricate the brake cables? Crazy or what??
Our old Snipe trailer has grease nipples in the brake cables, all it requires is once or twice a year is to pump grease in until it comes out both ends. NO PROBLEM and they are now over 7 years old.
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Old 04 October 2004, 05:15   #45
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The only problem with this is those ALKO hubs, is every time you take off the hub you have to get new caps at £6.99 each & new locking nuts. Which I still have to find before we can put the whole thing back together, and god knows how much they are going to be!
Why should we have to buy two new caps & locking nuts just to lubricate the brake cables? Crazy or what??
Our old Snipe trailer has grease nipples in the brake cables, all it requires is once or twice a year is to pump grease in until it comes out both ends. NO PROBLEM and they are now over 7 years old.
OK not so easy but you could get the 3 in 1 in from the other end!
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Old 04 October 2004, 15:29   #46
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Also when fitting the locking nuts on the ALKO bearings you need a VERY big torque wrench to get them tight enough. We had ALKO bearings on a trailer and ended up buying a new axle with Bradley bearings that you can get to when you need to.
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Old 07 October 2004, 11:27   #47
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Also when fitting the locking nuts on the ALKO bearings you need a VERY big torque wrench to get them tight enough. We had ALKO bearings on a trailer and ended up buying a new axle with Bradley bearings that you can get to when you need to.
You are not kidding Geoff, just got the locking hub nuts & asked what they should be torque setting should be ď230 foot poundsĒ blimey weíve got to get a new torque wrench now, no oneís got one that goes up that high.
Anyway lots of discussions last night at the committee meeting, luckily we have a few members who are on the retail side & some with legal background. They all agree the trailer is not fit for purpose (something about being sold non merchandisable goods) or something.
They are now in the process of composing letters to Humber & Bramber (they are a lot better at things like that than I am) these will be sent by recorded delivery & if we donít get any reply this time they will be getting in touch with our local trading standards officers (they deal with them all the time during their every day work)
Just as an after thought,
The place I got the brake parts from were very surprised to find we had ALKO hubs on a boat trailer, they asked if we had made a boat trailer from an old caravan chassis. They recon ALKO hubs are totally unsuitable for use in seawater.
Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone, & Iíll keep you all informed of what happens.
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Old 26 October 2004, 03:05   #48
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Latest update
Letter received from Bramber to let us know they have received our letter, & they will be contacting Humber to see what they have to say.
As of yet nothing back from Humber.
Iíll keep you all informed of what if anything happens.
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Old 26 October 2004, 14:30   #49
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as well as straps & chains (original post)

For a novice, where should these be and attached to please, e.g. all round or to some of the boat fixings?
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Old 27 October 2004, 03:41   #50
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Quote:
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For a novice, where should these be and attached to please, e.g. all round or to some of the boat fixings?
From my own experience (and what Iím about to say is only my opinion, someone will probably say something different)
When we picked the boat up from Humber it only had 2 straps over the tubes & the winch to hold the boat on the trailer, over the last 9 months & after a couple of problems we now take a different approach.
See below

1. On the front of the trailer attach a length of chain to the winch post, with a large clip to put onto the boat through the eye where you usually have the painter attached. This is just in case your winch decides to do the same as ours, & will hopefully stop the boat rolling off the back of the trailer.
2. Attach a short ratchet strap from the same eye on the boat down to the trailer drawbar. This will stop the front of the boat bouncing up & down.
3. Attach 2 ratchet straps from towing eyes in the transom to the trailer, (if you donít have towing eyes but you do have an ĎAí frame you may be able to loop the straps round that instead. (Please check to make sure it a good strong ĎAí frame if you are going to do this.

If you have a look at page 2 of this thread you can see a couple of pictures of the chain & strap fitted at the front.
I hope this helps you.
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