Spot on Erin. If you've got Knott brakes (likely) then there'll be an adjuster nut on the back / inside face of your backplate, probably near the top.
You'll need a 17mm spanner (ratchet one's useful, if you have one of those) or a 3/8" ratchet and 17mm socket.
With the handbrake off, coupling head pulled out to full extension (forwards), wheels up off the deck, and your cable adjustment corrected as previously discussed, do the adjuster up (i.e. clockwise) until you can't turn the wheel anymore.
Only turn the wheel in a forward rotation!
(if you start adjusting and turn it backwards you'll engage the auto-reverse function).
Then slacken off the adjuster nut by two full turns (i.e. 2 x 360 degree anti-clockwise revolutions).
This should be about right. Obviously, there's variables - amount of meat left on the shoes, surface pitting on the drums etc etc, but that should see you ok.
PS. C-NUMB - you've got Alko brakes, so you have a star wheel adjuster. Do the same as above, except you should find a green blanking plug on your backplate (which may have fallen off over time!). In fact, you should see two - one is near the outer edge, this is to check how much pad is left on your shoes and one slightly further in towards the centre, this is the adjuster one - which is the one we're interested in. If the green plug's still there then pop it off to reveal the adjusting hole.
Use a small, flat bladed screwdriver and adjust the star wheel in the direction of the arrow and letter 'C' stamped next to the hole, until you can't move the wheel in a forward direction (same as above - don't turn it backwards!), then adjust the star wheel so it releases the wheel and it can turn freely. Hopefully that should be yours sorted too.