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Old 08 October 2011, 16:42   #11
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but then trailer guy would have any work.

Pete

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Old 09 October 2011, 05:42   #12
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Thanks again. Using the rubber hammer it was only 5 minutes an of it was. Rest of the dismantle was no issue, starting to remember doing this on my Triumph MKII 2000 some years ago.

But as You can see on the pictures, this time it was worth doing the way Trailer Guy suggested, no boating today either .

Need to start to check for part numbers....If its AL-KO will get the parts from here, i think they are commonly used on caravans?
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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Old 09 October 2011, 06:37   #13
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If its AL-KO will get the parts from here, i think they are commonly used on caravans?
They're Alko, yes sir. They look like type 2051. If you have a look around the outer edge of the brake back plate there'll be a 4 digit number stamped in to it (my suspicion is 2051), something like 2051, 2361 etc. This gives you the brake type. i.e. 2051 = 200mm drum diameter and 51mm width shoe. 2361 = 230mm drum and 61mm wide shoe etc. You get the idea, I'm sure!

Your cables should be stainless steel (if they have a red outer sheath this denotes stainless, black means mild steel) - they should be stainless as standard from Indespension, but whilst it's stripped it'd be worth lubricating these at the same time, just to make sure they're still moving ok.

You should be paying around 50.00 ish for an axle set, for a single axle trailer (two pairs of shoes and the retaining springs).
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Old 09 October 2011, 06:56   #14
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Trailer guy - yer a good man to have around! Thanx for helping guys out like this.
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Old 09 October 2011, 09:01   #15
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Ah, go on away with you, you'll make me blush!

What's the point in having a head full of this stuff and not share it?!

Hopefully, if I can impart a bit of it, it'll make room in my head for remembering things like the missus' birthday, or which daughter's meant to be going to Guides and when...
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Old 09 October 2011, 17:10   #16
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Trailer guy - yer a good man to have around! Thanx for helping guys out like this.
I second that one!

Cables moving ok but their black, think its time to do an upgrade to ss.. The positive thing
is I learned something and the bearings seams to be in good conditions.
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Old 12 October 2011, 10:57   #17
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"Wheel was easy to remove, thanks to well greased nuts."

Errr, were your wheel nuts greased? That is a definite NO-NO. There should be plenty of friction to stop them undoing whilst rolling down the road. So clean off the grease. If you doubt this go to any branch of Kwik-Fit, local car dealers, etc.

Arthur
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Old 12 October 2011, 11:11   #18
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Errr, were your wheel nuts greased? That is a definite NO-NO.
Depends on if you subscribe to the "thread friction holds the nut on" school or the "bolt stretch and face friction holds the nut on" school.

I, personally, grease up the lug studs before putting the nuts on. Seen too many people with rusted-on flat tires.

jky
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Old 12 October 2011, 11:27   #19
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May I be so cheeky (sorry Trailer Guy) to suggest that you replace the wheel bearings while you have the hubs off. You will be doing so soon if you immerse your hub in sea water! Salt water gets into the grease and destroys the bearings.
cheers
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Old 12 October 2011, 15:14   #20
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So the moral of the story don't grease your nuts stick to nipples only. Sounds like a plan
A mate of mine recently admitted to being addicted to brake fluid. When I quizzed him on it
he reckoned he could stop any time…..

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
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