Brain tester Rapide Roller Disc Brakes

[Richard Selman]

I have the manual for my WAP disc brakes filed away somewhere. I'll try and look it out tonight. Late Feb is usually when my brakes have a date with a big hammer to get the auto reverse mechanism freed up again. As long as you keep this bit freed up (hard to get grease in) the rest has worked much better than drums IMO. The auto reverse bit is very strong and can take a lot of punishment.

Richard

[oracle]

Sorry not to have answered you guys, been away for a while. That all looks like good info so thanks everyone for contributing.

I will be getting on with mine this weekend now I'm back so great timing.

I'll no doubt be back again soon with more questions once I get into them and see what's working (or not)

[nugent]

Originally Posted by Richard Selman

I have the manual for my WAP disc brakes filed away somewhere. I'll try and look it out tonight. Late Feb is usually when my brakes have a date with a big hammer to get the auto reverse mechanism freed up again. As long as you keep this bit freed up (hard to get grease in) the rest has worked much better than drums IMO. The auto reverse bit is very strong and can take a lot of punishment.

Richard

Richard
did you ever find your manual for these ?

after stripping these down today sand blasting them and finaly freeing them up i would like to under stand how the anti reverse works,
i noticed that the internal rod/push bar has a toggle piece on the end and they are handed, but for the life of me i can not see how this dis engages when reversing
i can understand it can only move one way when fitted but the pads in front of it so well confused lol

[nugent]

Originally Posted by john lee

I have just strpped down my rapide wap disc brakes & the pads that fitted with a bit of persuasion where motaquip lvxl246 audi gt,gte and other cars from vw stable hope this helps.

Volvo fitted like a glove,,,

[Richard Selman]

The reversing disc drags the pad backwards inside the caliper and the toggle allows the pad to go swing back 10 mm and away from the disc. There is more room in the caliper in the reverse direction to allow the inner pad to move like this. When going forward the pad is constrained from moving as far in the forward direction by the caliper so that the toggle is closer to the straight out position. The spring on the disc pulls the pads back in the forward position.

Looking at the manual now but there isn't a good picture of this bit.

Its this toggle bar that is usually siezed on mine at the start of the year. 100 or so hits with a hammer back and forth cures it. Seems OK this year.

Richard

[nugent]

i thought it was some thing like that
the calliper's where in a right state look like new now just sorting some springs and shall post some b4 n after pics. the toggles area sfree as any thing now
must admit that i am thinking 4 x discs on twin axle trailer is over kill though,

[nugent]

Its this toggle bar that is usually siezed on mine at the start of the year. 100 or so hits with a hammer back and forth cures it. Seems OK this year.

Richard[/QUOTE]


lol never heard of copper slip bloody hammer swinging thug

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by nugent

Its this toggle bar that is usually siezed on mine at the start of the year. 100 or so hits with a hammer back and forth cures it. Seems OK this year.

Richard

lol never heard of copper slip bloody hammer swinging thug[/QUOTE]

I have always been a Copperslip fan, but I was given a tin of this as a sample to try. Excellent stuff, doesn't seem to wash away & stays put from one year to next. Some situations can still only be resolved by the judicious application of kinetic energy though

[nugent]

before n after bloody ard graft but satisfying

red oxide is temp due to sand blasting will rust up rapidly if not treated,, couple coats bzp zinc oxide primer will suffice when i get done with em, discs have been on the lathe and look A1

[nugent]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

lol never heard of copper slip bloody hammer swinging thug

I have always been a Copperslip fan, but I was given a tin of this as a sample to try. Excellent stuff, doesn't seem to wash away & stays put from one year to next. Some situations can still only be resolved by the judicious application of kinetic energy though[/QUOTE]


new one on me........dolike the copper colour tho,

even if it is a crunt to get awf ya clothes

[Richard Selman]

The problem with these brakes is that the main part of the caliper cannot be stripped down. There are three concentric shafts all moving independantly and its almost imposible to grease them properly as they don't have much of a stroke to work the grease in. So far these bits have stayed reasonably free. If they stick I'll have to drill out the welded pins to break it apart,

The auto reverser shoe, toggle arm and centre shaft have large areas of flat steel touching with very little play. They jam up very easily despite me giving the whole trailer a good wash after each dunking.

Still better than drums especially since the bearings do not need to be exposed to access the brakes - and the caliper comes off easily for some "attention" in the vice.

Richard

[Richard Selman]

Manual now pdfed. If you need a copy PM me with an email address. Its 7Mb (scanned at hi-res to capture the detail in the drawings).

Richard

[nugent]

[Richard Selman]

To the guys that have managed to get other pads to fit, did they have the right slots on the outer edge of the pad backer plate to allow the pads to slide back and forth on the retaining pins as I described earlier? My pads are OK for wear but the backer plates are getting a little rusty (not so easy to keep these copper slipped up. Also might keep a full set of spares stored in case. Did you find a replacement spring to fit?

Cheers

Richard