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Old 12 January 2020, 12:08   #1
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Black copper trailer wires

Been tracing back the trailer electrics fault I suffered last week.

On stripping back the 8 strand wire that connects the trailer lights (and lighting board) to the car, on top of the corrosion I found last week, the copper core of each cable is black, going some way back along the cable, even after cutting back about 8". Having wired up a new plug, the trailer lights (and lighting board when plugged into trailer are still U/S.

Lighting board plugged directing on car is fine

Does this black covering of the copper so far back mean the whole trailer cable is knackered & needs replacing?

Could the fault be anything other the suspect cable?
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Old 12 January 2020, 13:08   #2
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usualy still works when its gone black I suspect you may have another issue .can you plug another trailer board into the car to eliminate the car socket
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Old 12 January 2020, 13:43   #3
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Originally Posted by lakelandterrier View Post
Lighting board plugged directing on car is fine
Is this a sort of extension lead that is on the trailer then you plug the board in?

Which end is black?

Personally I'd suspect the cable as a starting point...
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Old 12 January 2020, 14:06   #4
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the blackening of the copper cores is normal enough and shouldn't present a problem. like another member said plug another light board in and start from there.Have you a socket a length of cable and another socket on the trailer.are you using a suzy to connect vehicle to trailer
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Old 12 January 2020, 14:37   #5
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Maybe check the grounds and connections, have you done a continuity and impedance test on the cores?
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Old 12 January 2020, 15:06   #6
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cable shorted out ?
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Old 12 January 2020, 18:02   #7
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Continuity test the wiring with a multimeter. Personally I'd strip the lot out and rewire with tinned cable.
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Old 12 January 2020, 18:16   #8
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Hi guys, thanks for replies.

If I didn't make it clear - when I plug the lighting board directly into the car, via the same susie I use for the trailer cable all is fine (now rejigged so I can do this and ignore the trailer lights altogether) .

The issue is on the cable from the trailer - trailer lights + lighting board - to the car. this is the line that is not working, and with the blackened copper inner wires.

No idea what "continuity and impedance test on the cores means" but thanks anyway - this is someone who failed physics O-level and never understood why if we know electricity actually flows - to + why circuit diagrams are built showing the flow+ to -!

Wiring & testing the plugs correctly is me pushing my electrical boundaries!

Is the next most simple thing to replace this cable and check the wires into the fitting as part of this electrical "adventure"?
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Old 13 January 2020, 04:58   #9
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It is possible one or more of the wires has corroded to the point it's either severed or the strands left can't carry the current required.
As nothing works I wonder if you have an earth problem.
Testing isn't difficult. Plenty of 'how tos' on youtube & the internet & multimeters aren't expensive.
If you don't want to test then rewiring is the only alternative.
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Old 13 January 2020, 07:24   #10
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Once the copper has corroded black, youíre on a road to nowhere. Bin it & start again. Thatís why tinned copper is the only thing to use anywhere marine applications.
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Old 13 January 2020, 11:38   #11
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Plenty on YouTube regarding continuity testing. For example: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=continuity+test.

Multimeters with continuity check facility are cheap as chips these days.

Its not difficult, but equally, not for everyone. If you are not the sort of person to pick this stuff up from googling, all fine and nothing to be ashamed of, but suggest you get an automotive electrician on the case.
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Old 13 January 2020, 12:01   #12
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if your not already ,convert to new style 13 pin trailer plugs ,they are far better product ,than the 7 pin ,imo, the thought that you missed the nacho run for a light board problem would be enough to throw the whole lot away and start again in my opinion .
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Old 13 January 2020, 13:46   #13
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if your not already ,convert to new style 13 pin trailer plugs ,they are far better product ,than the 7 pin ,imo, the thought that you missed the nacho run for a light board problem would be enough to throw the whole lot away and start again in my opinion .


^^^^^^^^
Wot he said
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Old 13 January 2020, 14:17   #14
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Quote:
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if your not already ,convert to new style 13 pin trailer plugs ,they are far better product ,than the 7 pin ,imo, the thought that you missed the nacho run for a light board problem would be enough to throw the whole lot away and start again in my opinion .
Agree - the issue is not the lighting board itself - it's the newfangled trailer lights -(or the cable that connects them (and the lighting board to the car)

I can now connect lighting board directly into car bypassing the trailer connections, so one level that's OK, but I need to sort the trailer lights.

As next step will replace the entire 8-strand cable with new. If that doesn't work points to a fault in the trailer light wiring along the trailer - but is all new (less than 3 years old and LED) Never dipped in water! All new learning
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Old 13 January 2020, 18:40   #15
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Get a multimeter with continuity tester and a lengthy of wire...... touch the 2 probes it’s beeps.....this means the circuit is complete now use the probes to test pin 1 each end of trailer should beep (length of wore allows you to extend the probe)

Do pins 1-7 all should beep if good...... my guess is you may have side marker lights.... these use sidelight + ground..... my guess is a failed side marker or ground is dragging the whole assembly down....

Impedance test is same as continuity but measure the residence of the line for a short copper wire impedance should be negligee anything higher will cause issues..... look for a corroded or missing ground lug...


Cheaper online https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas83...ter-600v/75337
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