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Old 06 October 2014, 16:39   #61
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Originally Posted by MrHeadsocket View Post
I am airing towards just replacing the spindles as it's cheaper than returning everything and getting sealed hubs. New spindles are about £10 each and U-bolts and other bits about £10. That way I have the piece of mind knowing that nothing is at fault with the spindles and bearings but thank you all for your suggestions!!!
The spindles would be excellent! Are your spindles not welded on? I figured you didn't have access to a welder, as they need to be burned in pretty hot.

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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Wouldn't it be easier to hack off the excess spindle length?

jky
The issue is the nut can not be tightened down on the spindle far enough. The threads would need to be cut deeper which is pretty much impossible since few even own a die that big, let alone in standard pitch threads.
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Old 06 October 2014, 20:05   #62
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mr headsocket despite what Peter c says the suggestion of the centre race broken out of your old bearings used as a spacer will work fine

as others have said it might be exactly the right length & if not a grinder will soon get it to the correct length

don't worry about the bearings being out of line they are not adjusted tight & as they self centre they are tolerant of a bit of misalignment
If you turn the cut end to the spacer towards the shoulder on the shaft (if you do need to cut them) then the outer end contacting the bearing will be square even if the cut end isn't

I know its concering when someone is saying a suggestion wont work but myself Bartiney & nick herne have all fitted & changed probably many sets of these bearings

Peter c hasn't seen them, clearly didn't understand them & was proven very wrong hence his negativity to any suggestions from people who do know the system

get the hammer out smash the outer rings off the old bearings & clean up the inner races & give them a try
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Old 07 October 2014, 15:17   #63
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The issue is the nut can not be tightened down on the spindle far enough. The threads would need to be cut deeper which is pretty much impossible since few even own a die that big, let alone in standard pitch threads.
Sure about that? The OP posted:

Quote:
Slight problem with regards to those bearings, they fit fine but the spindle is about 0.7mm too long!!!!
Makes it sounds like all's good except the excess spindle length.

jky
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Old 07 October 2014, 15:26   #64
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This is exactly the problem ^^^
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Old 07 October 2014, 17:09   #65
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Sure about that? The OP posted:



Makes it sounds like all's good except the excess spindle length.

jky
It comes down to where the spindle is too long. The threaded part is fine, it is the width where the hub/bearings ride that is too wide. The spindle length can be cut down, but there is also having to thread the spindle deeper and the location of the cotter key hole.



OP, have you bottomed the nut and washer, then taken a measurement of the difference between their inside edge and the bearing yet?
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Old 11 October 2014, 17:06   #66
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Does anyone know where I can get a set of 4" PCD hubs fitted with sealed for life bearings thst fit a 1" diameter stub axle? Either that or a set of new stub axles with a fixing kit suitable for taper bearings? I'm thinking of replacing the stub axles but the ones on the trailer are bolted on and pretty rusted
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Old 11 October 2014, 20:46   #67
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Originally Posted by MrHeadsocket View Post
Does anyone know where I can get a set of 4" PCD hubs fitted with sealed for life bearings thst fit a 1" diameter stub axle? Either that or a set of new stub axles with a fixing kit suitable for taper bearings? I'm thinking of replacing the stub axles but the ones on the trailer are bolted on and pretty rusted
As in these so you can bolt them strait on ?
TRAILER SUSPENSION UNITS 350 KG STANDARD STUB AXLE HUBS BEARINGS CAPS BRAND NEW | eBay
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Old 12 October 2014, 09:40   #68
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Your set up looks like transverse leaf springs with the stubs bolted below. I haven't seen them for a good while now & a quick Google didn't find any so maybe no longer available
You might be able to use weld on stubs & drill them to suit the bolt holes in the springs but you won't be able to weld them on
Alternatively you can switch to the suspension units shown above but you may need to get mounting plates welded to the frame to bolt those on
As previous the easiest solution is to fit spacers behind the new hubs
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Old 12 October 2014, 18:04   #69
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Ok surely using spacers would foul the bearing seal though? Can anyone recommend any things I could use as spacers?
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Old 12 October 2014, 18:45   #70
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Where the spacers contact the back of the inside bearing they need to be small diameter to fit inside the seal which is pressed onto the bearing so they contact the metal of the bearing & not the seal when pushed fully home. That's why people have suggested the inner race of the old bearing as they are a small dia. The alternative is to have spacers made
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Old 05 November 2014, 04:37   #71
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If you need to remove a cone bearing run a weld, as the metal cools it shrinks therefore shrinking the cone, they usually fall out. Maybe some one does not this.
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