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Old 04 October 2014, 16:12   #51
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Accept at only a mm or two wide, any deviation could torque the bearing wrong causing uneven wear. A 1" washer or even two is a better solution.

There is a reason loose bearings tear themselves up since they are running at an angle.
yeh if it was only a 1mm spacer he needed then possibly there might be a deviation in the bearing but he is 10mm short & needs 1-2mm overhang so 11-12 mm spacer needed which if its a tight fit to the shaft as a bearing will be it wont deviate even if its cut a mile out of square

it will work fine just need to break the outer ring off the old bearings & you have a ready made spacer which other posters have already used & said they work fine
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Old 04 October 2014, 17:02   #52
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yeh if it was only a 1mm spacer he needed then possibly there might be a deviation in the bearing but he is 10mm short & needs 1-2mm overhang so 11-12 mm spacer needed which if its a tight fit to the shaft as a bearing will be it wont deviate even if its cut a mile out of square

it will work fine just need to break the outer ring off the old bearings & you have a ready made spacer which other posters have already used & said they work fine
Okay Ghetto Fab it is!

Glad I own a lathe
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Old 04 October 2014, 17:44   #53
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& your going to turn a bearing?
Stop digging Peter!
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Old 04 October 2014, 21:22   #54
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Who said it had to be hardened? Look around and find something that works.

Climax 1 inch bore Zinc Plated Mild Steel Set Screw Collar-C-100 at The Home Depot

Simpson Strong-Tie 1 in. Bolt Diameter 3-1/2 in. x 3-1/2 in. Bearing Plate-BP 1 at The Home Depot

The Hillman Group 1 in. Stainless Steel Flat Washer (6-Pack)-43761 at The Home Depot

The Hillman Group 1 in. Grade 8 Flat Washer-880264 at The Home Depot
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Old 05 October 2014, 04:14   #55
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Mrheadsocket if you use standard of the shelf washers the outside diameter will foul the grease seal that is why the old bearing inner race is such an easy fix
Peter C the op stated he wanted a cheap fix to prolong the life of an old trailer. There are several people commenting on just that kind of fix.I very much doubt that Mr headsocket has a lathe in his back shed
you clearly don't understand the bearing system but still comment that others suggestions are wrong & the design is rubbish
If you don't know the system & can offer nothing helpful then don't rubbish others good & tried & tested advice !
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Old 05 October 2014, 13:48   #56
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I offered other alternatives. It is hard without an exact measurement to know which means is the best.

Why does the spacer have to go at the back? Why can't it go between the nut and outside bearing? Has the dust shield/bearing buddy been installed to check for clearance if it can ride all the way back, with the nut installed at the outer edge?

I consider $4.32 a cheap fix, and for me they are available at the hardware store .5 miles away.



Also I walked out to my tool box and checked my press drawer. I found a few options that were 1" with different widths. All I am saying is check for other options, as there is typically more than one way to do something.
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Old 05 October 2014, 16:40   #57
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I

Why does the spacer have to go at the back? Why can't it go between the nut and outside bearing? Has the dust shield/bearing buddy been installed to check for clearance if it can ride all the way back, with the nut installed at the outer edge?
See post #42

& your local store is probably 4000 miles from the op
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Old 06 October 2014, 02:45   #58
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OP, I tried to find a solution to your problem, but being half a world away things are done differently there. As a professional sitting in the drivers seat of an auto shop for many years, I could not charge a customer to make a critical, high failure rate part, just work. Instead the solution would be to return the parts in hand, and purchase the proper hubs, even if that means purchasing the sealed units, all due to liability. If a bearing failed for whatever reason, say launching the tire/hub assembly into traffic, and causing an injury/damaging accident, the installer could be deemed liable.

If you can't find a better solution and want to try to cut them down, it will take a measuring device, a permanent marker, some type of holding device aka vise, and a 4-5" grinder with a cut off wheel. Clean the grease off or the Sharpie won't work. Measure how much you want to cut off and set the pen height to that spec. Rotate the old bearing over the pen marking it all the way around. Don your personal protection and start cutting, checking to make sure you are on track. Once the cut is completed you can grind off any high spots if needed. Verify with a combination square that it is all good, and retouch any areas that are not. If they are not 100% operational, throw them away and buy the correct hubs, which is the right way to do the job, and what I would do for my own trailer.
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Old 06 October 2014, 11:25   #59
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Wouldn't it be easier to hack off the excess spindle length?

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Old 06 October 2014, 11:38   #60
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I am airing towards just replacing the spindles as it's cheaper than returning everything and getting sealed hubs. New spindles are about 10 each and U-bolts and other bits about 10. That way I have the piece of mind knowing that nothing is at fault with the spindles and bearings but thank you all for your suggestions!!!
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