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Old 26 February 2008, 15:43   #41
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Originally Posted by Limey Linda View Post
Temp. of process is 460 C. maybe enough to case harden. It is only a guess as I could not think of another reason, unless the steel was hardened in the first place. It is HARD.
Its been a while but I thought case hardening normally involved adding extra carbon to the surface whilst hot, then quickly cooling it? Could the surface work hardened as you were drilling it.? Surely the galv process of heating and cooling it would result in annealing.

This doesn't help Hightower though. Andy suggest you bring the draw bar along to the next church as well as the prop

You could try ditching the draw bar and replace it with a straight piece. Then double it with another on top which the frame bolts to with JWs idea of angle iron, so you end up with an over/under like a shotgun.

Pete
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Old 26 February 2008, 15:54   #42
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Its been a while but I thought case hardening normally involved adding extra carbon to the surface whilst hot, then quickly cooling it? Could the surface work hardened as you were drilling it.? Surely the galv process of heating and cooling it would result in annealing.

This doesn't help Hightower though. Andy suggest you bring the draw bar along to the next church as well as the prop

You could try ditching the draw bar and replace it with a straight piece. Then double it with another on top which the frame bolts to with JWs idea of angle iron, so you end up with an over/under like a shotgun.

Pete

I was trying to keep it DIY and keep the costs and hassel down a bit. doing it JW's way I'd have to weld plates on the ends of the side pieces so that it would become a stable platform for the angle iron bits, afterwards the two side of the frame would need dipping.

What I was thinking of was a new upgraded draw bar, but instead of a bend two pieces of box welded together to get the height right for the cross member.

Then I was going the have two plates made up that would go down the side of the side frames, angled at the joint area and up the draw bar, each plate would have angle iron welded to the back to locate the frames and U bolts atc to hold it all in place.

What you think?
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Old 26 February 2008, 15:59   #43
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Andy, what section is the drawbar and what is it's thickness?
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Old 26 February 2008, 16:05   #44
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Andy, what section is the drawbar and what is it's thickness?
I haven't a clue, was planning to take a look, untill the front offside brake caliper on my Rover decided to seize up yesterday, rendering it U/S. I've had to replace the caliper, discs and pads today, lucky the bearings seem OK

I've a job interveiw tomorrow, taking my boat to get measured up for it's new screen rail, paying my car tax for another year and going to work....I'll try to fit it in
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Old 26 February 2008, 16:07   #45
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OK. When we know the sizes, it'll be easier to move forward.
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Old 26 February 2008, 16:16   #46
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Andy. If that was my trailer, id list it in the bits for sale section,on this forum no one will ever know. and get my self a beefier trailer.

Ps. maybe just leave it a couple of months first.

It must be a week for trailer problems. Id picked mine up from upholsterers on friday, for got to take the hand break off. and 5 miles down motorway got stopped with flames coming from both wheels.luckilly there was a canal running along side. so off went my mate for several buckets of water.
spent yesterday collecting and fitting new complete axle.Oh for the joys of boating.
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Old 26 February 2008, 16:20   #47
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I've had to replace the caliper, discs and pads today, lucky the bearings seem OK
Ouch, I bet that was pricey. You sound like a very busy man. Regarding the trailer. Have studied the pics; it is very light weight construction. I would cut out the tow bar and fit a new one as previously suggested. I would also pay attention to the mounting of the winch post while you are at it as it appears a little flimsy.
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Old 26 February 2008, 16:27   #48
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Its been a while but I thought case hardening normally involved adding extra carbon to the surface whilst hot, then quickly cooling it? Could the surface work hardened as you were drilling it.? Surely the galv process of heating and cooling it would result in annealing.

Pete
The case hardening process you are thinking about is used for steel with no carbon. If the steel already has carbon in it it will harden unless the temp. is lowered slowly, which is annealing. If they took it out of the zinc bath and sprayed it with water it will harden. No, it did not work harden as you would get with a skidding drill bit.
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Old 26 February 2008, 16:56   #49
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Hi

Can you not place a box section from the back of the blue label each side to near to the front handles on the draw bar (like a second A frame) and either make up a plate and bolt through or u bolt them in place and then have a couple of cross sections to sandwich the existing bars one behind the existing A frame joint and a couple in front to add support, spread the load

Or make up a new draw bar like a ladder on its side with a second box spaced under the first to give more support
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Old 26 February 2008, 17:07   #50
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This is what I had in mind.

Excuse the wonky look of my rough sketch, it is late

Original on left modded one on right.

The reason I have designed it like this is that I can have it made seperate and fit it in an hour.
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