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Old 05 December 2007, 01:51   #31
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Bunch of replies together here , if I can do it.


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Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
Disks??!! You're going to tell me that trailer wheels in the US aren't made of wood next!
Mollers, I'm not sure what all your emoticons are about; what are you trying to say?

In the US, we have drum braked trailers:

http://www.championtrailers.com/DRUM%20BRAKE%20KITS.htm

and we have disk braked trailers:

http://www.championtrailers.com/SUB_KODIAK.htm

Drums are much cheaper, less effective, and more prone to corrosion (primarily because inspection is a PITA. Disks are more expensive, more prone to lockup between use, and, due to the drag of the pads on the disks, tend to run much hotter than drums.

There are, as far as I am aware, no trailer wheels made of wood, though I can probably scare up an artisan or two who would be willing to craft you some, if you desire.

That satisfy your snobbiness?



Nasher: When your bearing was going, what was the temp vs the other side?


Polwart: No, I'm saying that you may get warning of an impending failure by shooting the temp. My point is that any rise in temperature is reason for inspection/analysis. And yes, Mollers, that includes brakes as well, wood or metal. The point I was trying to make was that it's better to stop a problem before it happens than to fix it afterwards.

Your choice, though.

jky
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Old 05 December 2007, 03:22   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post

Nasher: When your bearing was going, what was the temp vs the other side?

jky
Unfortunatly I didn't check, it would have been hard anyway with the smaller unbraked hubs.

I had a rumbling coming through the towbar when I moved the boat for the first time that year so I checked the bearings a couple of days later and found one was on the way out. Small ridges of wear/rust where the rollers had sat in the same place all winter. I replaced it and next time I towed the boat again all was quiet.

Perhaps in recent years the towbar has become more insulated from the body of the car its attached to so you don't get so much noise.

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Old 05 December 2007, 12:54   #33
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[QUOTE=Nasher;229554] Unfortunatly I didn't check, it would have been hard anyway with the smaller unbraked hubs.[quote]

Why is that? A quick feel of any metal part at the hub will give you a good indication (I use the hub body protruding from the center of the wheel.) The temp probe just makes it so you don't get your fingers dirty.



Quote:
Perhaps in recent years the towbar has become more insulated from the body of the car its attached to so you don't get so much noise.
Nasher
Don't know. But I certainly don't feel anything but the larger bumps when I'm towing.

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Old 06 December 2007, 15:07   #34
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Old 17 December 2007, 18:50   #35
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I meant to update this when i fitted the bearing savers last week .

I got the indispension ones and the heabvy duty seals total about 55 with postage .

I am very sceptical as to wether they will work , have to take your word for it Mollers .

The reasons i say that are

1 the shoulder at the back of the stub axle that the seal contacts with goes rusty which will quickly spoil the seal , although there is a seal bonded to the back of the rear bearing in my hubs .

2 A normal grease cap has an air / pressure relief hole and if you put grease in the cap , which you are not supposed to , most of it ends up blowing through the back seal into the drum .

3 The bearing savers have a plastic dust cover cap , which is quite a tight fit and that covers the pressure relief hole . I think the idea is that any excess grease is forced intio the cap , but I reckon it will go through the back seal.

However all this doesn't bother me too much as I would rather some grease end up being pushed through the back into the drum than water getting inot the the bearings . It takes a lot of grease to actually get on the brake shoes as it it gets deposited on the backplate which isn't turning so it stops there

Last of all the bearing savers are a real pig to get on , you really have to get them dead square and hit them hard , if they go crooked they wont tap in like the dust caps will . Not easy on yer own holding the block of wood and the bearing saver while swinging a hammer with the other hand .

Just my thoughts Ill know this time next year if they worked , or maybe sooner if they didn't
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Old 18 December 2007, 08:02   #36
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Originally Posted by ian parkes View Post
I am very sceptical as to wether they will work ,....The reasons i say that are

1 the shoulder at the back of the stub axle that the seal contacts with goes rusty which will quickly spoil the seal ,
That's a problem area so you need to put plenty of water resistant grease on it. It doesn't spin so the grease doesn't fling.
Quote:
...although there is a seal bonded to the back of the rear bearing in my hubs .
Ian, I'm not quite sure what you've got because on the bearing which includes the seal, the seal lip bears on the bearing not the stub axle as you suggest above. Have you got two rear seals, one on the bearing and a normal one in the recess? When used on its own, there is a fault with this bearing in that the inner track does not seal to the stub axle because it's just a slide fit, also the rear of the bearing track is exposed to the salt water. I've not found these seals to be effective for long.
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Last of all the bearing savers are a real pig to get on ,
You'll have Garfie after you for being piggist...
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Old 18 December 2007, 08:07   #37
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Ian

I have to agree that one of the biggest problems is the shoulder that the rear seal rubs against goes rusty and rips the seal lip.

Its been my plan for a while to whip the stub axles out of my hubs, turn the shoulder down a bit in my lathe and sweat a stainless steel collar on for the seals to run on. Haven't got around to it yet, but am lucky that my stub axles are held in with a big nut on the back rather than being welded.


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Old 18 December 2007, 08:51   #38
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Ian

Its been my plan for a while to whip the stub axles out of my hubs, turn the shoulder down a bit in my lathe and sweat a stainless steel collar on for the seals to run on. Haven't got around to it yet,
Snap. I can't remove my stub axles but there are stainless sleeves available for using to reface a worn sealing surface. They are thin and designed to be push fitted and the seal is able to accomodate the extra thickness. One day...
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Old 18 December 2007, 09:07   #39
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Old 18 December 2007, 09:22   #40
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Quote:
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Small ridges of wear/rust where the rollers had sat in the same place all winter. I replaced it and next time I towed the boat again all was quiet.
No roller / ball bearing likes to sit stationary, especially loaded. Invest in a set of axle stands / large lumps of wood to take the weight off them if you plan to park it up over the winter with the boat on - if not jack it up every so often & give the wheels a 1/4 turn. (Axle stands wil lalso take the strain off the rubber bits in your suspension units)


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Perhaps in recent years the towbar has become more insulated from the body of the car its attached to so you don't get so much noise.
Au contraire - the new EEC approved ones essentially need to bolt straight into the chassis rails! I think there were one too many boot floors being ripped out in the dim & distant past..... I found towing the Laser the formula "more grease on the ball = quieter trip" (unbraked hitch) I guess it might be more likely your auto reversing hitch doing the damping?
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