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Old 10 June 2018, 12:04   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sargan View Post
When I start reversing up drive all the weight is on rear axle ... i.e stern of boat.


In fact for first couple of metres the wheels on front axle due to height of tow hitch don't touch ground .... after first 2m all 4 wheels back in contact


Not particularly steep drive, just a slope at the start



It is the rear axle wheels that lock up for sure, if I put in low ratio I can force trailer to moves - and rear wheel skid, showing brakes are locked on.


I am sort of thinking more & more the coupling is 'over driving' so instead of being light touch and the auto reverse kicks in ... it has full car force , and locks the shoes solid.


If I drive fwd ... brakes release and trailers rolls fine.
In the best possible terms I would stop all the faffing and make a short bar (use threaded rod) that you can flip over to lock the hitch in one place when you reverse up the slope. If you look at the hitch I am sure this would be easy

Dennis
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Old 10 June 2018, 13:55   #82
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Not so easy ... it would require fabrication and some welding ...... though it may come to that.
The couplings that were designed for that had a cut out behind teh damper top 'flip-over' a limiter for reversing.



Observation
Today when putting boat away .... the boat is on my drive handbrake applied - brakes hold fine it does not roll fwd.


Then hooked up winch to pull it into boat shed ..... inadvertently I had left hand brake on .... winch puled it in fine, no extra load .... so from that point of view - with handbrake applying brakes it appears auto reverse does work.


Now handbrake is in 90 degree position/ 12 o'clock when applied (as it should be) .... but it did not move backwards to 2 o'clock as it is supposed to ... but that could just be the ES spring unit is weakening.


This may reinforce the 'thought' that the coupling may be at fault and over-driving the brakes.
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Old 10 June 2018, 14:13   #83
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I think the fact that the wheels are almost off the ground is a factor also. Have you tried taking the whole setup to a different incline and trying it


Dennis
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Old 10 June 2018, 15:19   #84
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No ... been reversing up this drive with this boat for 5 years, and other for another 5.
Next time I am out with it I will find another slope to try.
My drive is only a 3% gradient.
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Old 11 June 2018, 11:39   #85
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I have not been able top get to a point where adding slack makes it work.
Added loads ..fon't forget any slack I add also affects normal braking.
What im suggesting is keep adding slack untill you can reverse and then see if you have brakes in forward that will prove the auto reverse in the hubs is working and would suggest a hitch travel or damper issue.
Did you replace the rusty shoes you pictured?
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Old 11 June 2018, 12:19   #86
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What im suggesting is keep adding slack untill you can reverse and then see if you have brakes in forward that will prove the auto reverse in the hubs is working and would suggest a hitch travel or damper issue.
Did you replace the rusty shoes you pictured?



I have done that many times ...
got to point of something like 100mm of slack ..still unable to reverse up drive.
At that point rods sagging badly.


I don't have time to try it again before it goes in on Friday ... have to mark this down as beaten me.
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Old 11 June 2018, 13:53   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sargan View Post
I have done that many times ...
got to point of something like 100mm of slack ..still unable to reverse up drive.
At that point rods sagging badly.


I don't have time to try it again before it goes in on Friday ... have to mark this down as beaten me.
Ok im sure everyone will be interested to know what the final fix is hopefully it doesnt cost too much
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Old 11 June 2018, 14:02   #88
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I don't have time to try it again before it goes in on Friday ... have to mark this down as beaten me.
I think this has beaten all of us as well
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Old 11 June 2018, 14:28   #89
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I'll be sure to let forum know. Coupling is my thought train.
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Old 11 June 2018, 15:34   #90
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Forget all that adjusting and trying ,jack the trailer on axle stands on the flat ,remember the facts ....they are the shoes should always disengage when the wheels are turned backward (except under handbrake conditions ) ,,,use a ratchet strap between the hitch loop and the winch post to simulate the underbrake and then fully back position ,by hand or using a wheelnut wrench go round one by one and see if the wheels are locked forward but should fairly easily turn backwards as you will feel the shoes hop out ,adjustment wont really matter and can be tweaked later within reason ,, if its going to work then all wheels will turn backwards by hand , if this works and all is good you can look for the problem poss with the hitch ,there is a possibility that someone has fitted a damper of say a 3500kg goods trailer so your hitch can never compress fully ,if you can compress fully with the strap and turn the wheels backward then this will rule that and reverse damper is too strong and your not compressing enough under normal reversing ,,just so much easier with it all blocked up and simulate breaking with a strap
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