Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 09 June 2018, 18:00   #71
Member
 
JimRib's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lincoln
Boat name: Zoom
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 10
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 68
Is you hitch damper in good condition ?
__________________

__________________
JimRib is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 June 2018, 21:36   #72
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: reiver 3.8/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: 40hp 2st 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,129
I know you dont want to run with loads of slack in the rods but if you've now replaced the rusty shoes for new ones and it still doesnt work then id back off the rod further in small increments until you can reverse then check if you have brakes going forward (only as a test)
The mechanism in the drum is designed to put a little slack in the system after the initial grab rotates the shoes rearward. There are 2 possibilities
A) the shoes are not rotating and releasing
B)they are rotating and initially releasing but the travel in the cable is such that it takes up the slack in the system induced by the shoes collapsing as they rotate rearwards.
My next stop would be adjust the rods until you can reverse if you then have brakes going forward your drums are working if you have brakes in neither direction then the drums arent working.
Once you determine if its drums or a travel issue you can concentrate on the hitch/damper/actuating rods or the internals of the drums
__________________

__________________
beamishken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 03:40   #73
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Boat name: Mavi Su
Make: Cobra Nautique 6.6
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150
MMSI: 235114058
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 217
RIBase
After a month of trying and multiple adjustments and obvious frustration I suggest you hand it over to a professional to sort, pass the hassle downstream and pay! Persumably you can’t put the boat in the water either.
__________________
You Can't cross an Ocean unless you have lost site of shore.
charliee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 03:59   #74
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Ipswich
Boat name: Click and Collect
Make: Valiant and Narwhal
Length: 4m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 980
As I said on a previous thread you need to stop tinkering and do something positive that will work.


Is it possible to change the breaks out for Knott brakes in the same hub.
or
get a hand winch to winch the whole lot up your drive
In my view you are just trying the same thing over and over again
__________________
Bigplumbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 04:12   #75
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
I know you dont want to run with loads of slack in the rods but if you've now replaced the rusty shoes for new ones and it still doesnt work then id back off the rod further in small increments until you can reverse then check if you have brakes going forward (only as a test)
The mechanism in the drum is designed to put a little slack in the system after the initial grab rotates the shoes rearward. There are 2 possibilities

Once you determine if its drums or a travel issue you can concentrate on the hitch/damper/actuating rods or the internals of the drums



I have not been able top get to a point where adding slack makes it work.
Added loads ..fon't forget any slack I add also affects normal braking.
__________________
Sargan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 04:17   #76
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigplumbs View Post
As I said on a previous thread you need to stop tinkering and do something positive that will work.

Just can't find anything that makes it work ...

I did mention earlier cannot change backplates they are welded onto stub axles - not bolted.
New pair of Axles around £1600


>In my view you are just trying the same thing over and over


Agree as the advice is same thing over & over .... i.e. set brake shoe gaps they are too tight, or add more slack ..
Tried everything suggested here.
.... even though explained what has been done - still get told to do the basics.


I do have an electric winch in my garage ... so that currently used to pull boat up the drive.
__________________
Sargan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 04:35   #77
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 863
Does autoreverse work OK on level surface or does it have the same problem no matter the angle?

The coupling has been mentioned. I don't know if it makes any difference but is its weight range appropriate for the weight of trailer & load?

If all else fails then consideration to some device for stopping the coupling pushing back may be the only solution. Been mentioned earlier & was common before autoreverse. Was a metal lever that hinged over onto the neck of the coupling & stops the brakes working. If you DO go that route you must remember to take it off as it will stop the brakes working in normal driving.
__________________
paintman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 05:07   #78
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 67
I have no way of knowing if autoreverse is working ‘on flat’. As there might not be enough rolling resistance ... i.e. I start reversing, coupling starts compressing,it may be that trailer then starts rolling before it gets compressed enough to apply brakes.

I did have once when reversing on launch site brakes locked on reversing, but pulled fwd 1/2m then it reversed OK ...
__________________
Sargan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 10:38   #79
Member
 
neil.mccrirrick's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Oldham
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,021
Do you know how many wheels are locking? If the trailer is weighted on two wheels more than the other two there may not be enough friction to make the shoe slide and by the time the bar is fully locked they will be locked on
__________________
"Too often we enjoy the comfort of opinion without the discomfort of thought."
neil.mccrirrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 June 2018, 12:37   #80
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 67
When I start reversing up drive all the weight is on rear axle ... i.e stern of boat.


In fact for first couple of metres the wheels on front axle due to height of tow hitch don't touch ground .... after first 2m all 4 wheels back in contact


Not particularly steep drive, just a slope at the start



It is the rear axle wheels that lock up for sure, if I put in low ratio I can force trailer to moves - and rear wheel skid, showing brakes are locked on.


I am sort of thinking more & more the coupling is 'over driving' so instead of being light touch and the auto reverse kicks in ... it has full car force , and locks the shoes solid.


If I drive fwd ... brakes release and trailers rolls fine.
__________________

__________________
Sargan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:34.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.