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Old 03 June 2018, 03:09   #61
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I’m no trailer expert and have just played “spot the difference”. Part 6 looks different.
On the right hand end of part 6 there are 2 horizontal metal plates of different lengths. Alko show the shorter of the 2 in the upper position whereas you have it in the lower position in your photo.
I have no idea if it’s significant but it’s point of difference.
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Old 03 June 2018, 03:19   #62
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Have you referred to The Sbs manual, it’s quite detailed and refers to the auto reverse function a lot
http://www.northernexposurerescue.or...e%20Manual.pdf
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Old 03 June 2018, 13:52   #63
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Looking at that picture and all the rust i think id invest in a new set of shoes that right hand side shoe looks like the lining is set to detatch at the top due to rust under the lining.
It also looks like the lining is not true to the shoe at the top
Id say new shoes strip and clean all the slipper assembly, make sure everything that should move does move and plenty of lubrication anywhere the shoes touch anything else
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Old 03 June 2018, 17:28   #64
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Looking at the two pics you've posted & the relationship of the shoes position to the rim of the backplate.

The shoes on the Al-Ko pic. The bottom is near to the rim of the backplate & as you look along the shoe the gap between the backplate & the shoe looks like a nice taper getting further from the rim as it goes towards the top.
Your pic looks as though the top is much closer to the rim than the bottom & instead of a nice smooth taper there's a bigger gap in the middle.
Suggests either the shoes are wrong or the way they're set up is wrong.
It would be easier if you'd posted a pic of the same brake as the Al-Ko viewed square on so the two pics could be directly compared.

If that's black waxoil over the mechanism I agree with the post above about removing it & greasing it instead. Waxoil is good stuff but goes hard & isn't going to help slidy things slide.

Has auto-reverse ever worked properly on this trailer - either with the old shoes or these that you've fitted?
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Old 03 June 2018, 18:52   #65
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If you go back to post #5 at the start of the thread I think Pikey Dave hit the nail on the head
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Old 04 June 2018, 05:13   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
If you go back to post #5 at the start of the thread I think Pikey Dave hit the nail on the head


I think I might have a couple of sets of brand new shoes on the shelf in the garage + bearings, all surplus to requirements, I'm sure an arrangement could be reached
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Old 09 June 2018, 06:14   #67
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Did you ever resolve the issue Sargen ?
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Old 09 June 2018, 13:18   #68
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Part 6 is on the wrong way round


Also I think Dave got it right in post 5. If you have had them off so many times why not give then a good clean up and replace the knackered shoes
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Old 09 June 2018, 16:21   #69
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Originally Posted by Bigplumbs View Post
Part 6 is on the wrong way round
?
The two pics are effectively mirror image & parts are oriented the same way in both - the thin end of Part 6 is one the same side as the adjustment wheel on Part 1.
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Old 09 June 2018, 17:18   #70
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Originally Posted by Bigplumbs View Post
Part 6 is on the wrong way round


Also I think Dave got it right in post 5. If you have had them off so many times why not give then a good clean up and replace the knackered shoes





Maybe you missed original comments ... it had had full service, complete clean of all components thorough clean of back plate, drum. Wash all old grease out of bearing, replace with new grease, new grease seals and then reassemble, and set brakes up correctly (in terms of show to drum gap.)

I have now replaced all the shoes ....



Reset brakes at least 1/2 doz times - even had guys who have like me had boats 30+ years check and they agree brakes set correct.




It is not fixed ........... so currently have to use winch to get trailer up my drive.


I had a Qualified Engineer come take a look ....... he seems to think that the brakes are applying finer in FWD (I agree) and when they go backwards they start applying as soon as coupling moves the 'S pawl' (fixed to brake rod) but instead of the brakes tripping out with rear movement the coupling continues its movement and applies so much pressure when reversing up hill the brakes will no trip.


When reversing up drive the weight is fully on back axle only.


We have tried putting play in rod to change the point at which is starts acting on Bowden cables ... but even with 75mm of play brakes still lock on.
With that much play the rod is sagging badly, and would rattle terribly.


As a reminder the 3 x Al-Ko set up guides and Indespension manual all state after adjusting shoes, with coupling fully forward (brakes not activated) rod should be adjusted to have zero play.


Best thought currently is coupling is somehow faulty and over travelling and hence over driving brakes when reversing ..... but unaware of any adjustment.
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